Changing rear shock spring
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Thread: Changing rear shock spring

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    Senior Member Rick67's Avatar
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    Ok so who's got the secrecy code to remove the Allen bolt from the top mount .I've no trouble removing this nut but the bolt is bloody solid and won't budge 🤔
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick67 View Post
    Ok so who's got the secrecy code to remove the Allen bolt from the top mount .I've no trouble removing this nut but the bolt is bloody solid and won't budge 🤔
    Not quite sure what you are trying to do.
    I put my bikes into a front wheel clamp, put a rachet strap through the rear subframe, and lift the bike until the rear wheel is off the ground.
    undo the drop links and then with no load I can release the spring and it drops out underneath.
    what are you doing and why ?
    I can change my spring rate with very little work. Never undone the top to remove the entire unit .

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    Senior Member Rick67's Avatar
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    I guess I wasn't clear enough ..
    My bike has no static sag at all and only 20mm when I'm on-board. Even without any preload on the adjuster . I'm pretty sure the spring is way too hard even just for its own weight .
    I've got the back wheel off the ground , drop links removed ect .
    There's no way the spring will just come off without spring compressors .
    So my thoughts were to remove it completely to make the job easier but that top mount bolt will not move even when the nut is removed . Tried both ways left and right hand thread options . I'm pretty sure it's sized in the frame brackets .

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick67 View Post
    I guess I wasn't clear enough ..
    My bike has no static sag at all and only 20mm when I'm on-board. Even without any preload on the adjuster . I'm pretty sure the spring is way too hard even just for its own weight .
    I've got the back wheel off the ground , drop links removed ect .
    There's no way the spring will just come off without spring compressors .
    So my thoughts were to remove it completely to make the job easier but that top mount bolt will not move even when the nut is removed . Tried both ways left and right hand thread options . I'm pretty sure it's sized in the frame brackets .
    Have you not got the two ,ride height locking rings on the top of the spring and the C section platform washer on the bottom of the shock ?
    I only have Tornado Tre suspension , is yours different ?
    Is it not adjustable for preload and ride height .

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    Senior Member Rick67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freeatlast View Post

    Have you not got the two ,ride height locking rings on the top of the spring and the C section platform washer on the bottom of the shock ?
    I only have Tornado Tre suspension , is yours different ?
    Is it not adjustable for preload and ride height .
    This is the same rear shock as I have . No locking rings as some other shocks have,
    it's easier to adjust preload to cope with extra weight from luggage ect but right now I wish it was like yours.😭
    I've sprayed it to death with penetrating oil so time will tell .
    Failing that I'll have to live with it until I get a work around solution
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    Senior Member Rick67's Avatar
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    All sorted now .long story if you're ever in the same problem p m me and I'll explain in detail .
    But here's a picture of my get around solution that pushed the sized bolt out using the frame as it's backstop .
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    Senior Member Engenia's Avatar
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    Rick - help

    I think I have the same problem you experienced.
    Changing rear shock spring-shocktopmnt1.jpg
    The weird nut is out, the cap bolt will turn but the shock spacers turn with it, giving the impression that the spacers are threaded. Hard to believe.
    Changing rear shock spring-shocktopmnt2.jpg
    I'm assuming you simply push the bolt out using the alloy frame as a back stop. I tried tapping it out with a brass drift at an angle but it didn't budge.
    hooroo, Errol www.engenia.com.au [139,200 km - and counting .....]

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    Senior Member Rick67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Engenia View Post
    I think I have the same problem you experienced.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The weird nut is out, the cap bolt will turn but the shock spacers turn with it, giving the impression that the spacers are threaded. Hard to believe.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	32545
    I'm assuming you simply push the bolt out using the alloy frame as a back stop. I tried tapping it out with a brass drift at an angle but it didn't budge.
    Hi Errol,
    Yes those shock bolt pins are a complete bitch .
    It's as if they weld themselves into place .
    You are correct about using the frame as a backstop ,
    First thing I did was to warm the pin up with hot air gun gently then apply lots of WD-40 and plus gas ect .. nothing budged .
    Then I put the weird bolt back in fully then found a suitable steel socket to act as a spacer from the head of said weird bolt to the frame .
    Then I used a ratchet ring spanner to then slacken off the bolt while it was held tight with an Allen key/socket , effectively like jacking it through to the other side .
    At one point I thought I was going to break my tools it was that tight !
    It took a long time and lots of lube to finally release it's hold on the spacer.

    After it was out I took fine paper to the damn thing and drowned it in grease so it wouldn't happen again .

    Hope you get it sorted .
    fredzedex likes this.

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    Senior Member Engenia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick67 View Post
    1. put the weird bolt back in fully then found a suitable steel socket to act as a spacer from the head of said weird bolt to the frame .
    2. used a ratchet ring spanner to then slacken off the bolt while it was held tight with an Allen key/socket , effectively like jacking it through to the other side .
    3. took fine paper to the damn thing and drowned it in grease so it wouldn't happen again

    That's pretty much what I ended up doing, although I found that the nut didn't jack the bolt out completely. I had to complete the job by wedging it out using the bolt head and a big screwdriver.

    I found a similar thing happening when I removed the swing-arm axle. It was an extremely close fit to the frame and took a brass drift from the RHS until it reached the swing-arm, then levering at the LHS using the head. Once it was about 100mm out, I could rotate and pull by hand - just.

    (This isn't Nell btw, but Buster. I plan to upgrade Buster's engine then swap it into Nell. A big end in Nell started knocking on the recent trip to the Vic High Country at ~ 140,000 km)
    hooroo, Errol www.engenia.com.au [139,200 km - and counting .....]

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