2008 Ben' 1130 Toronado
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Thread: 2008 Ben' 1130 Toronado

  1. #1
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    2008 Ben' 1130 Toronado

    Good afternoon all.
    I'm looking for help with my 2008 tornado 1130. Behind the Clutch basket, the oil seal, doesn't line up to form a seal
    Please see attached video.

    Thanks

    https://youtu.be/sPQJC--c-XE

  2. #2
    Senior Member Engenia's Avatar
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    Errol Kowald
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    Can you post a picture of what's behind the seal/carrier?
    hooroo, Errol www.engenia.com.au [136,351 km - and counting .....]

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    Senior Member Rick67's Avatar
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    This is the only reference of parts I've found .. not sure if it's the same as yours nor am I certain that this website is still active . ... It seems to have two separate parts listed that do the job of the one you have in the video .

    https://shop.benelli.parts/en/produc...rchi-motore-11

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    Is the primary drive cover located properly? Perhaps if you loosen all of is fixing bolts you'll be able to shift it a little.

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    Quote Originally Posted by benvan View Post
    Good afternoon all.
    I'm looking for help with my 2008 tornado 1130. Behind the Clutch basket, the oil seal, doesn't line up to form a seal
    Please see attached video.

    Thanks

    https://youtu.be/sPQJC--c-XE

    Hi,

    Are you sure , someone has not opened up the holes in the flange plate with a larger drill hole ?
    Mine are a tolerance fit on the screw thread, with no end float , the location as you can see, is critical to locating the bearing shaft seal centrally.
    The shaft seal is a simple replacement, it even tells you the size on the flange.

    I would buy a new flange plate , and bearing seal, centralise it on the shaft and rebuild it. If it has run with the seal not located on the shaft , it will have distorted the seal edge , hence your oil leak.
    hope this helps

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    From the state of the holes it looks like someone's been in there previously and butchered it a bit. The flange that holds the oil seal looks like a relatively inexpensive part, so may be a worthwhile purchase.

    Is the side cover supposed to locate onto the crankcase using dowels, and if so are they present?

  8. #7
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    Hey everyone thanks so much, here's a link to your questions
    https://youtu.be/t3H79F8egSQ

  9. #8
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    You appear to have identified the root cause of the problem, but then ignored it. At about 1:33 into your video, you observed that the primary drive cover is misaligned. No amount of playing about with the seal carrier plate is going to fix that. I think you should be focussing on the primary drive cover (as I suggested in my previous post) rather than trying to find a problem with the seal holder, which you have already demonstrated to be circular and symmetrical.

    The whole primary cover looks like it needs to move to the right a millimeter or so.

    Remove the bolts from the primary drive cover and check that they're not bent (which could easily happen if the cover took a hit from something). Replace any bent bolts and then re-position the cover so that the hole for the seal carrier is concentric with the clutch shaft. Use a caliper to measure the radial clearance between shaft and primary case at various positions around the shaft. Say 12, 3, 6 and 9 O'clock. There is some flexibility in the seal lip, so the alignment doesn't have to be perfect. I'd guess that if you can get all measurements within about 0.2 mm of each other, that should be close enough for the seal to work.
    ron d likes this.

  10. #9
    Senior Member Engenia's Avatar
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    Errol Kowald
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    I think Sprocket was on the money yesterday. Revealing what's behind the seal flange said it all - as far as i could see, without taking measurements.

    The primary drive cover is the problem. Either the mounting screw holes have been machined offset, or the seal flange mount has been machined offset.
    If you can't do anything about either, you'll have to modify the seal flange to correct the problem.

    What I would do is make a tool that slipped snugly over the gearbox input shaft and had a concentric OD the size of the seal ID. Use this to line up the flange.

    Mark the top flange screw hole, then slot it's holes to reveal the screw holes in the cover. Always place that mark at the top.
    You might have to remove some material on the RHS of the flange to allow it to move far enough right.
    Whenever you remount the flange, use the tool to line up the seal/flange, screw it into place, perhaps using washers to stop it from moving, then fit the clutch basket.

    If you got very keen, you could back-fill the flange holes with JB Weld ......

    (Damn. Sprocket you beat me to it! That'll teach me for going for a walk with the missus half way through a post)
    ron d likes this.
    hooroo, Errol www.engenia.com.au [136,351 km - and counting .....]

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Engenia View Post
    I think Sprocket was on the money yesterday. Revealing what's behind the seal flange said it all - as far as i could see, without taking measurements.

    The primary drive cover is the problem. Either the mounting screw holes have been machined offset, or the seal flange mount has been machined offset.
    If you can't do anything about either, you'll have to modify the seal flange to correct the problem.

    What I would do is make a tool that slipped snugly over the gearbox input shaft and had a concentric OD the size of the seal ID. Use this to line up the flange.

    Mark the top flange screw hole, then slot it's holes to reveal the screw holes in the cover. Always place that mark at the top.
    You might have to remove some material on the RHS of the flange to allow it to move far enough right.
    Whenever you remount the flange, use the tool to line up the seal/flange, screw it into place, perhaps using washers to stop it from moving, then fit the clutch basket.

    If you got very keen, you could back-fill the flange holes with JB Weld ......

    (Damn. Sprocket you beat me to it! That'll teach me for going for a walk with the missus half way through a post)


    Variation on a possible solutions.
    If the seal lip on your is still good and you can still re use it, that,s good. If it is buggered get a new one.
    Make a card template with a hole in the centre to slip over the output shaft, a nice tolerance fit .
    Cut around the outer diameter of the card the same size as the primary drive cover, so it just fits inside the recess the cover is bolted into.
    Mark the,centres of the six screw holes through the card. Now transfer those six hole centres to the steel flange that hold the seal and drill out the six new holes halfway between the ones you have. Make the holes a tolerance fit size to the screw thread, not the slop you have already. Position the primary cover back in place using you six new holes and check it is now centrally located. If all is good, you could refill the holes you are not using , if you want to.Then put it back together and test it.
    If it still leaks , buy a new cover and seal.
    At least you can test the theory for little cost and might even fix it without buying new .

    Best regards

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