Z25 Gear and Shaft Replacement - Page 14
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Thread: Z25 Gear and Shaft Replacement

  1. #131
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by GBo View Post
    Did you find what stops the alternator side bearing moving inwards?
    Yes. As expected, there's an internal shoulder in the bore. If you need to replace the bearing it's a 6005/C3 (25x47x12).

    There's enough room behind the alternator coupling for a bearing retainer so I'll be able to fix my circlip cock-up. I'll still use some Loctite bearing gap filler though, because the bearing is a bit looser in its bore than I'd like it to be. I reckon the housing took a pounding from the bent shaft.

    BTW, that beat-up looking thing in the middle isn't part of the bike. It's just the drift that I knocked the shaft out with. It's there to stop the sprag clutch falling down into the gearbox.
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    Last edited by Sprocket; 09-08-2019 at 12:29 AM.

  2. #132
    GBo
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    Ooh right I think I need to pull it apart quick

  3. #133
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    G'day folks - the continuing Z25 saga ...

    Got a chance to do some work on the bike this afternoon. So I installed the new Z25 shaft.

    If you recall, I buggered the groove for the circlip that retains the ball bearing on the alternator side (left side of case). So I invented a new type of bearing retainer. Basically an alloy ring with a spigot that projects into the bearing hole to hold it in place. Driled and tapped 6 holes in the case to fix the ring in place with 6 x M3 socket head countersunk machine screws. Fortunately there's enough room behind the alternator coupling for the 2mm thick flange. Drilling and tapping such tiny holes was like working on a bloody watch.

    I've attached some pictures. The double centre punch mark on the outside of the bearing retainer is to indicate the orientation. The mark goes to the top. I did that because I'm not 100% confident that the 6 screw holes are evenly spaced. I did my best to get them as accurate as I could, but without a fancy rotary table for my pillar drill I have to assume there's some minor variation.

    The masking tape in the bottom of the coupling housing was to prevent the little screws from falling through the oil drain holes if I dropped one.

    Almost ready to go back on the road. Just got a bit more reassembly to do, new oil and coolant. Bodywork and tank yet to go back on. Ran out of time today.

    Cheers,
    Cam
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Z25 Gear and Shaft Replacement-bearing-retainer.jpg   Z25 Gear and Shaft Replacement-retainer.jpg   Z25 Gear and Shaft Replacement-bearing-installed.jpg  
    Last edited by Sprocket; 09-15-2019 at 03:11 AM.

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  5. #134
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    Fantastic... Love it Clever lad !

  6. #135
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    OK, the bike is back together and filled with oil and coolant. When I start the engine, the red light flashes with a battery warning. I must have cocked something up with the alternator connection.
    Last edited by Sprocket; 10-04-2019 at 07:26 PM.

  7. #136
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    Cam Maybe the single black wire from the alternator got left behind around the back of the frame ..
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  8. #137
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    Give that man a cigar! The black wire was tucked away and didn't get plugged in. I blame my new alternator cover. It hid the mistake from my sight. All good now.
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  9. #138
    GBo
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    Well got mine apart today and guess what......... no step on the inside to stop the bearing moving in the clutch direction. There is no damage to the clutch or z25 gear just polishing on the edge. But mine is an tre899k so would it be the same?. Anyway it’s making me nervous( and I’m a fairly nervous sort of guy anyway).

  10. #139
    Senior Member Rick67's Avatar
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    I'm still a little confused by this Glynn .. are we talking about the bearing at the alternator side moving inwards towards the centre of the engine making the z25 gear nudge the clutch ? Eek .
    Or am I way off the mark

  11. #140
    GBo
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    You are spot on Rick. The alternator end bearing has a circlip on the outer end and nothing inner end so the bearing can move and the z25 is allowed to touch the clutch gear.

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