Help with little nelli please!
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Thread: Help with little nelli please!

  1. #1
    Senior Member Borat's Avatar
    Name
    Colin
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    Help with little nelli please!

    Hi all

    After an unforgiveable amount of time (partly due to laziness and part due to waiting on a certain supplier) and a lot more money on parts than I would have liked (especially considering it was advertised as "just needing fettling" ,little nelli (254) is starting to be put back together. There are a couple of things I need some advice on.

    1) Checking timing - Do I need special kit for this?
    2) Valve clearances
    3) Re-conditioning front brake master cylinder with the repair kit
    4) Procedure for recommissioning front brake (I have never even bled a brake before lol)
    5) Tuning
    6) Polishing - Anyone recommend a good / cheap metal polisher? I dont want to cock this up so think I will pay someone
    7) Helicoil - Thread is stripped on the sump. Anyone fitted a helicoil before?

    Also, some of the brackets are just mild steel. Whats the best solution for making them look decent? Assume you cant polish them?

    If anyone out there has experience with any of these on a 254 please let me know. If anyone is relatively local and has a workshop and fancies giving me a hand I can bung the engine in the car and travel... I can pay in beer

    Cheers

    Colin

    ps - For anyone needing parts I would highly recommend Michael from [email protected]. Hes got a comprehensive range of parts - was able to supply almost everything from stock - and was really helpful and responsive.
    Last edited by Borat; 08-08-2012 at 02:03 PM.
    Benelli Tornado LE #128
    Benelli 254 (in bits!)

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Chris's Techno Parlour
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    Hi Col,
    1) No you shouldn't need special tools for timing or valve clearenses. The timing marks can be out but not often and not by much. you can feel for top dead center by putting something down a spark plug hole but be careful not to trap it. A degree wheel can even be improvised with a protractor, a wire pointer and a bit of bluetack.
    2) Remove front and upper rear engine mounts and drop the engine forwards. Feeler gauges, a good ring spanner and a close fitting screwdriver should be all you need.
    3 + 4) HBar master cyl

    rear master cyl (front on 254)
    http://www.mgnoc.com/article_you_and_your_brembos.html

    Bleeding is easier if you can arrange to have either the master cyl or the caliper uppermost with all the connecting tubes rising in an uninterrupted slope. You do not need any gadgets. Start by putting plenty of absorbent material around then completely undo the bleed nipple. Seal the thread with a bit of brake grease from the rebuild kit and tighten gently. Put a ring spanner on the nipple so it can be tightened and loosened easily. Put a pvc tube on the nipple and position so it loops up 2 or 3 cm before falling to drain into a suitable container. Place something between the pads so that you do not push the pistons out. Keeping the fluid in the master cyl topped up, tighten the nipple, pressurize the system by squeezing the lever, losen the nipple and pump the lever, tighten the nipple, release the lever and repeat.
    5) Not easy. Some just accept the 254 as it is. You have the best carbs already.
    6) Easier, follow any of the on line guides
    http://www.porkersusa.com/tech_tip_a..._aluminum.html
    I've never yet bought a fancy polishing kit and you've seen my bikes, I would expect even easier results with one. Some alloy corrosion is not going to come good without removing a lot of metal - paint or ice blast this.
    7) Easy buy a complete kit and follow the instructions with care...
    Thread repair kit with drill

    Brackets - paint with a wheel silver or engine bay satin black or zinc plate

    Happy to help but I live about 60miles away!

    Gotta go
    Last edited by Tornadoboy; 08-09-2012 at 08:35 AM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Borat's Avatar
    Name
    Colin
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    Solihull
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    1) No you shouldn't need special tools for timing or valve clearenses. The timing marks can be out but not often and not by much. you can feel for top dead center by putting something down a spark plug hole but be careful not to trap it. A degree wheel can even be improvised with a protractor, a wire pointer and a bit of bluetack.

    Sorry Chris you will have to bear in mind I am an engine numpty When you say top dead center, is this the position I should be aiming to get to on 1 before I check the clearances? I assume when I put something down the spark plug hole I am feeling for the valve to close?

    2) Remove front and upper rear engine mounts and drop the engine forwards. Feeler gauges, a good ring spanner and a close fitting screwdriver should be all you need.
    3 + 4) HBar master cyl

    rear master cyl (front on 254)
    http://www.mgnoc.com/article_you_and_your_brembos.html

    This one looks a lot different... the 254 has the separate cyclinder like in the pic.. is it the same procedure?

    Benelli Tornado LE #128
    Benelli 254 (in bits!)

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  5. #4
    Junior Member
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    Pull the sparkplugs and rotate the crank so the points are open then 180 deg for the other points. Reading glasses and good light see if the contacts look good. Points file, nail file, or emery if needed then electrical cleaner. Check loosen adjust if needed. You can look in the plug hole, turn the crank and see the piston come to TDC then look for max advance and TDC marks on the rotor. Borrow a dwell meter if parts like points cam aren't in good shape and it will turn out better. Hook timing light to battery and plug wire. Start it up shine light on window. When you rev it to 3 or 4 thousand the advance will max out near the first line on the rotor. Second line is TDC. Mine knocks if I align to the first max advance mark when revved. I'm adjusted one line width later or retarded.

    http://teamsmoke.com/05-11-12%20003.jpg

    The hardest parts of valve clearance check for me was getting the screw out holding the tach drive in valve cover. Tach drive has to come out before cover off. Screw stripped then 20 times over 2 days micro butane torch, small sharp center punch and small hammer. Tap on screw at an angle to get it to crack loose then it just spun out. The valve cover gasket isn't the jap style molded rubber. No its long itialian spagetti O ring. Clean it and valve cover. Put a line of yamabond or grey case sealer in the groove then fit the spagetti ring. Put a piece of window glass and a thick book on top. Let it sit for a day before putting cover on. I think I had to use narrow bent feeler gages. A set of gages that come apart so you use one at a time makes it easier. You'll be leaving the bent ones out anyway. You'll have new questions when you get that far.

    The valve adjusters have a fine thread like around .5mm so the whole range of adjustement will be within about an 1/8 turn of the screw. Measure the gap, look at what direction the adjuster screw is pointing so you can go back till your comfortable with it, make adjustement if needed. When your done rotate through and check again a couple times. Badly worn parts will change clearance with a slight turn of the adjuster as the worn areas will be misaligned. Stone off or replace. Use a 6 point socket to crack adjusters loose at first and finish tighten. Don't overtighten.

    I couldn't find a snap ring to get the master cyl apart. Looked like a permenant crimp. I'd really like to rebuild or get a new one. The handlebar switches and levers are way too pretty to even think of putting a master at the lever. I did graft a ducati rear brembo to the front. Bracket needs fiddling to get pads more square to disc. Organic pads steel line new master on the list.


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