250-2c light switch
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Thread: 250-2c light switch

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    ron daly
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    250-2c light switch

    Hi guys the light switch on my 250-2c works apart from the first click which is parking lights and they don't come on if i switch to dipped beam the small parking light comes on so i assume its the switch at fault, my question is can the switch be dismantled and cleaned easily ( i take it removing inc wiring harness from bars ) or can a new one be bought. cheers.

  2. #2
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    steve peace
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    Hi Ron the club has replied to your email re the switch but you did not reply. Can you say if you did or did not receive then I can take the appropriate course of action there are three different switches on that bike depending on the year please give me a clue
    Steve

  3. #3
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    Chris's Techno Parlour
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    Hi
    Which switch do you have? I can help you on this thread so others might also benefit.

    Chrome plated snuff box type up to about 75
    Plastic with rotating light switch up to early 80s
    Plastic with coloured sliding light switch final bikes mostly 125 sports and custom

    All these switches can be dismantled and repaired. The snuff box and multi coloured types are available as replicas.

    The 2c has a complex three section electrical system which can be a bit frustrating. Is the engine running when you observe the fault?

    Chris

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  5. #4
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    ron daly
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    250-2c light switch-img_0723.jpgHi guy's this is my switch ( sorry it's upside down always seems to do that for me ) the horn was added before i got the bike.

  6. #5
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    I have the same switch and mine’s a bit troublesome too, the parking light only comes on if I rotate the switch past it’s normal setting (till the headlight comes on) then turn it back slightly.
    If you do take it apart and find that you need to solder it, try and use old fashioned lead based solder as the melting point is a bit lower than lead-free stuff. I cut through the wires on my kill switch when working on the front brake master cylinder (the brake lever slid along the bar when I tried to drift the piston out) then I ruined the switch with the excess heat while trying to reattach the wires. I was very lucky to find a cheap NOS one for sale in Italy.
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  7. #6
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    Chris's Techno Parlour
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    Hi Ron
    Mike's right about the soldering. If you have to repair the wiring to the switch you need to use lead based solder or better and more importantly a powerful thermostatic iron.

    Firstly use a multimeter and a good wiring diagram to prove the switch is the issue. On the 2c the ignition switch plays more of a role in the lighting circuit than on other bikes.

    If there is a bulge in the back of the switch opposite the operating lever thingy then the switch has overheated and it will be harder to fix.

    Idealy you should remove the bars from the bike. The wires go up the inside of the bars so you need to carefully remove the pins from the Molex connector shells. Shells and pins are readily available. Vehicle wiring products and others sell a special removal tool.

    Remove the grip from the bar. Ease the cables through the bar as you gently work the two switches loose at the other end. You may need to tease them away from snags and sharp corners with pliers.

    once you have the switch off. See if the insulating foil sticker is still on the inside. Take care of it.

    Press inward and slide the red tab at the end of the lever off to either side. Be careful to catch the spring and ball bearing it holds back. There are three holes revealed. One should still have a plastic pin in it. Push the pin out from the inside. You should now be able to withdraw the inner part of the switch.

    The contacts in the outer section are to the rear. There are two types: sprung plungers or leaf springs, both have three contacts which ride on the inner barrel.

    You may have to seperate the casing of the outer part to remove the contacts and the sliding red keeper that prevents you going onto main beam inadvertently. There are three plastic pins in long holes holding the casing together. It can be tricky but the switch plastic is very strong and with gentle prying, penetrating oil and heat cycling in water they usually come apart.

    That should have it all apart... more later

    I'll try to post some pics.
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  8. #7
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    Chris's Techno Parlour
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    Pics as promised.

    Blue arrow points to retaining tab on Molex connector pin. A special extractor tool is available to compress these or you can use a small screwdriver.

    Note both casing covers here have one missing plastic pin.

    The leaf spring type and plunger type moving contacts are shown you will have one or other.

    Molex connectors and pins are cheap and readily available if a bit technical to identify. The rubber covers for the connectors are not so easy to come by.

    Crimp tooling is expensive but you can buy second hand or solder. I've found only proper crimp tooling from Molex works well but others may have had more luck.

    See the metalised tape used to provide insulation between the inside of the switch and the handlebar. This is important and you need to put some tape in there because the rivets holding the fixed contacts to the plastic are so close to the handlebar which is connected to ground.

    The condition of the moving contacts are critical to the performance of the switch. Look out for loss of springiness due to overheating. Replace the parts if this is the case. Springs are available from people like this:

    http://www.flexosprings.com/

    And beryllium copper alloy sheet, this is too thick but you get the idea:

    http://www.modmaker.co.uk/Beryllium-...t-150x50x0.5mm

    Clean and degrease everything then use a good quality dielectric grease such as Electrolube SGB to lubricate and protect on reassembly

    A restored switch may still have a few compromises which make it fragile compared with a new one. You might want to protect the switch from high currents by installing miniature relays in all the circuits. Hide them in the headlamp or under the tank. Putting the relay next to the accessory it powers often minimises alterations to the original loom. These item draw the highest currents...Horn, headlamps, stop lamp, indicators. A relay supplying the ignition coils removes any voltage drop due to side stand switches and the emergency stop switch to give you the best spark.

    New old stock switches have now been hanging around for 40 years. Even if perfectly stored, the grease inside will have decayed and dried out. Don't waste that valuable switch - always service them before use!

    Sorry about poor photo quality.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 250-2c light switch-image00a.jpg   250-2c light switch-image001.jpg   250-2c light switch-image002.jpg   250-2c light switch-image003.jpg   250-2c light switch-image004.jpg  

    250-2c light switch-image005.jpg   250-2c light switch-image007.jpg   250-2c light switch-image009.jpg   250-2c light switch-image006.jpg   250-2c light switch-2017-05-22-19.27.11.jpg  

    Last edited by Tornadoboy; 07-12-2018 at 07:11 AM.
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  9. #8
    Senior Member
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    ron daly
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks for the replies, i take it a new one must be out of the question, i am not the best at electricals but will give this a go in the near future ( if it fails the MOT later this month ) or wait till the winter, thanks again everyone.

  10. #9
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    Chris's Techno Parlour
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    Hi Ron,
    I have done many of these. If you don't fancy having a go yourself I'm happy to have a look at it. Usual rules; no charge, no guarantee. You'll still need to satisfy yourself that this switch is to blame.

    They do come up, usually on ebay outside the uk. Expect to pay 60 to 120 quid.

    Best of luck!
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  11. #10
    Senior Member
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    ron daly
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    Cheers for the reply, i will have a go at removing it in the near future.

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