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Thread: electronic ignition upgrade

  1. #11
    Member p65crosser's Avatar
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    Ian Jamieson
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    Dec 2016
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    500 Ignition

    If you want an ignition for racing, without any generator, then have a look at the Electrex World system. It is not cheap at £500+ but if you order a CB500 Honda system and let them know it is for a Benelli, they will adjust the taper on the system to fit. Selwyn Motorcycles have fitted these to several racing machines in the past and they are totally self generating without the need for a battery. I have used these systems for many years on my vintage motocross and trials bikes without any trouble.
    Sorry cant send you a picture of my system as bike is currently at Selwyn Motorcycles but will post a picture when it comes back in 10 days or so.
    Regards
    Ian

    https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acat...0.html#SID=942

  2. #12
    Senior Member Engenia's Avatar
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    Errol Kowald
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprocket View Post
    The positive stop is nothing more than an old spark plug with the innards removed and some kind of projection (like a bolt) inserted into it that will touch the piston and prevent it reaching TDC
    Another way of locking the piston is to feed rope down the plug hole, then rotate the crank until it jams. When you're done, just reverse the crank to release the rope and slide it all out.
    hooroo, Errol www.engenia.com.au [136,351 km - and counting .....]

  3. #13
    Member
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    Cam Douglas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Engenia View Post
    Another way of locking the piston is to feed rope down the plug hole, then rotate the crank until it jams. When you're done, just reverse the crank to release the rope and slide it all out.
    I did that when replacing the valve springs on my old Datsun 260Z without taking the head off. Not to lock the crankshaft, but to stop the valves dropping down into the cylinder when the springs were removed. Feed the rope in, crank the engine around until the rope is jammed up against the valves, then you can remove the springs.

    I had a problem with one cylinder though. The bloody rope managed to coil itself inside the cylinder in such a way as to tie a loose knot. As I pulled the rope out, the knot tightened and jammed against the inside of the plug hole. Was a prick of a thing to get out, but that's another story.

    So if you ever use the rope trick, choose a thin rope like para cord. Tie an overhand knot in it and measure the width of the knot. If the knot is bigger than the spark plug hole, get a thinner piece of cord.

    BTW, the rope method for stopping the piston is no good for determining TDC. Rope is too soft, so it doesn't provide a positive stop with the piston in exactly the same place for the forwards and backwards measurements.
    Engenia likes this.

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  5. #14
    Junior Member
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    phil clarke
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    Many thanks for the replies and excellent info. Since posting this query I have been rooting around on the internet and found a Dynojet ignition that I thought looked about the right size base plate. Fortunately it fits almost perfectly ( just needed the top bolt hole dremeled out around 3mm to the left ) . I have used these twice before and been very impressed. The timing was set up easily using a wired bulb and checked when warm using a strobe. The engine now runs really smoothly from tickover to top end. Phil

  6. #15
    Member
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    John DeMaria
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    Sprocket...... great description on “How to set up a degree wheel”. I made mine strong enough to leave in place, while the engine is running. This will allow me to confirm idle and total advance, with a timing light. When I get it all done, i’ll Add some photos!

  7. #16
    Member
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    Cam Douglas
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    Is there a way to attach pdf files here?

    I want to attach my CD sized degree wheel file. Then anyone could print it out on A4 paper and glue it a CD to make their own degree wheel.

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