Electronic Sachse do a neat ignition system for the 650 Tornado. But if I were doing it, I'd buy the Sachse Hall effect pickup plate (available separately) and mate it to an Ignitech ignition box. I did exactly that with a Laverda triple and it worked fine.
They're fully user-programmable (by plugging into a laptop) so you can fiddle about with the advance curve. If you set the pickups to trigger at 0° BTDC, it'll make starting easier (you can program the advance map to come at a couple of hundred rpm). There's also a heap of more advanced programming options with Ignitech that I won't go into in any detail, but suffice to say if there's a function you'd like (say a rev limiter or a side-stand interlock) Ignitech will do it. You can even install a TPS and a MAP sensor to allow a 3D advance map. Another bonus is that it's cheaper than the Sachse ignition box even though it does a whole lot more.
In case you can't tell, I'm a big fan of Ignitech.
I have a similar problem with my starter. I attempting to remover the generator rotor the manual tells me I need a "Parallel Pin". I am guessing from the instructions and a few measurements thet this is just a 6.2mm x 60mm rod. Can anyone confirm this? I dont want to make one and then get it stuck or ruin the inner thread.
Yes I definitely remember using something like that, a piece of rod goes down the hole, screw a bolt behind it and it pushes the stator off
[QUOTE=Nado04;249799]Finally got starter reassembled and ready for first startup bit nervous about this SKF sprag clutch after Romaldos experience so I retarded the points a bit to start off with still backfired a couple of times but eventually fired up I am sure I used up my 6 starts! I moved the points back to it's original position and it idled sweet as, took it for my first ride and it pulled strongly no misfiring at all, a lot less vibration than I was expecting except at idle it shakes a bit handling was a bit heavy at low speed but once in second gear felt quite light took a bit of getting used to right foot gear change and long throw and hard ride but overall well pleased with how it went.
yay! That's exactly the experience everyone reports, even the tests of the day, then as you get used to the idiosyncrasies the riding becomes very rewarding. After riding a polite modern bike the 650 is a bit of a shock ( especially the gear shift brake conundrum) and the heavy pull on the front brake.
I have removed everything except the cluch cover. Someone appears to have brazed a spot on it, presumably to keep it in place. I am reluctant to remove it and break the braze. The clutch doesn't engage by starter or when I turn it by hand so I guess it needs to be replaced. Runs backwards OK when the chain is removed and I kick it over. Can you advise me?
There is a detailed description in a post back in Feb 2013 about disassembly,I have heard talk of this cover but mine didn't seem to have one, I simply removed the large sprocket and the sprag clutch was exposed and came off the shaft quite easily.The sprag bearing didn't look visibly damaged though cams looked slightly out of symmetry so I played around with it a bit to try and free it up but no success when I installed the new one it engaged by hand when you turned the sprocket quite easily so i suspect that once they start playing up replacing it would be best option
[QUOTE=DonRichards;249937]Thrust washers were concave to concave
The Manual states " assemble the cup springs placed so that they touch each other on the outside diameter" Like this () As you can imagine this acts like a spring washer. A word of warning from bitter experience....this can be a little tricky to get right otherwise the alternator rotor can spin off. The rotor needs to nip up firmly on to the taper of the crankshaft. If any parts have been substituted over time this may not be the case. E.g. When I replaced a rotor (which subsequently span loose) I had to turn a teeny bit off the replacement rotor so that when fully tightened, the cup spring washers compressed, then firmly made a interference fit on the shaft taper.
This may not be easy to check but I smeared engineers blue on the shaft, assembled it then took it apart and looked at the blue.
This may sound dicky but as they came out of the factory it was never a problem
The skf bearing I got was in a plain pack and had no identifying marks on it. The skf bearing is very fragile looking compared to the original (18 cams instead of 22) and I have heard they dont last. If you search bevel heaven they list them with Ducati part no also I have seen them on ebay listed as Ducati cheaper than what I paid for the skf