Who wants a fuel sensor that works reliably? - Page 2
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View Poll Results: Would You Buy A Fuel Level Sensor For ~GBP100 That Worked Reliably ?

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  • Yes, for my Tornado

    4 18.18%
  • Yes, for my TNT

    6 27.27%
  • Yes, for my TreK

    5 22.73%
  • No, I don't care what the gauge tells me, I just want to ride.

    8 36.36%
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Thread: Who wants a fuel sensor that works reliably?

  1. #11
    GBo
    GBo is offline
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    Funny this I have been thinking of using an arduino to monitor resistance across a chain of contacts And mapped to volume but havenít gone into any detail yet. Biggest problem is waterproof housing for the arduino.
    My fuel gauge is pretty rubbish. Top few bars take ages to drop and the last bunch very fast, itís not linear at all.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Engenia's Avatar
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    Errol Kowald
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    Quote Originally Posted by GBo View Post
    Funny this I have been thinking of using an arduino to monitor resistance across a chain of contacts And mapped to volume but havenít gone into any detail yet. Biggest problem is waterproof housing for the arduino..
    If you were going to use resistance, a chain of thermistors top to bottom would do it.
    Pass a current through them high enough to heat them in air and measure the resistance. That's empty.
    As the fuel level rises, the thermistors are cooled by the fuel and the resistance changes.
    That would require only two wires to penetrate the tank, so the existing ones can be re-purposed.

    (Alternatively,measuring the

    1. inductance of the spring in the oem sensor might be feasible. TI has a chip made for the job.
    2. capacitance of 2 plates that extend top to bottom. The dielectric constant of fuel is double that of air so the capacitance changes with fuel level. The only question is the variation of the dielectric constant of different fuels - E10, 98RON, 95RON etc.

    )

    A FET to drive the existing gauge - adjusting the gate voltage & monitoring V & I to control the R.

    Arduino or Pi for development, but the final processor should be a uC. Way smaller and more easily sealed in a housing. It's built-in supply should be protected against load dumps and reverse battery connection.


    There wasn't much interest in a sensor that worked, so I haven't done anything about it. I figured I'd do it when mine died - again.
    Last edited by Engenia; 08-13-2020 at 05:57 AM.
    hooroo, Errol www.engenia.com.au [139,200 km - and counting .....]

  3. #13
    GBo
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    Whatís in the tank now? If it a variable resistor you could just map the voltage to suit the level.

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  5. #14
    Senior Member Engenia's Avatar
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    Errol Kowald
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    Here's some pics of the sensor.
    It's a variable resistor, so the dash is providing the source and responding to the resistance, so you need to emulate a resistance, not a voltage source.
    My best guess is that the dash is providing a constant current and measuring the resulting voltage. That's how I would do it.
    If you replace the resistor with a voltage source, it might not end well. Then again ......
    What I was going to do, was use a FET with a resistor in the source/gnd leg, and use it to measure the current. Then measure the drain voltage and calculate the resistance. The uC will adjust the gate/source voltage to arrive at the required resistance.
    It has to be a closed loop system because the Vgs vs Rds is by no means linear and temperature dependent. Name:  290px-JFET_n-channel_en.svg.png
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    hooroo, Errol www.engenia.com.au [139,200 km - and counting .....]

  6. #15
    GBo
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    Hmm that original setup looks horrible. Might just go steampunk and glue fittings top and bottom and put a sight glass tube in

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