What parts will I need
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Thread: What parts will I need

  1. #1
    Senior Member sammyboy92's Avatar
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    Sam Baines
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    What parts will I need

    So the seemingly endless saga continues. I did my engine swap which was fine, but the clutch is slipping and I've sort of lived with it for a bit because i dont do huge miles. But now it needs sorting so what parts will I be needing , obviously il need clutch plates , which are on ebay for £170 , what else will I need, I assume a new clutch casing gasket ? But is their anything else ? I was thinking of taking the plates out my old siezed engine but for 170 thinking rather have freshies in.

    Then once it's not slipping I will be taking it to a local bike dyno/remapping bloke and trying to get it going better. I think it's a slower engine than my old one (but maybe that's the clutch) but it also does more popping and banging than it used to, and the exhaust seems to be sooting up a lot. I'm using my same ECU and throttle bodies and new iridium plugs but must not be fuelling this new engine right. So hopefully in a few months it will be going like it used to !
    Benelli tornado tre.
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  2. #2
    GBo
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    You shouldn’t need much just plates and springs. And a bike specific oil

    probably best check Errols site Engenia.com he has info about the clutch baskets.
    Last edited by GBo; 09-02-2019 at 05:39 AM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by sammyboy92 View Post
    So the seemingly endless saga continues. I did my engine swap which was fine, but the clutch is slipping and I've sort of lived with it for a bit because i dont do huge miles. But now it needs sorting so what parts will I be needing , obviously il need clutch plates , which are on ebay for £170 , what else will I need, I assume a new clutch casing gasket ? But is their anything else ? I was thinking of taking the plates out my old siezed engine but for 170 thinking rather have freshies in.

    I would first try checking the clutch adjustment very easy to do and while you have the oil out, cover off and the basket visible, check the stack height and the wear on the fingers of the friction plates/ and basket fingers. have a look at you old clutch and compare condition you may have to simply put in an extra steel plate from the spare (old ) clutch, to eliminate the slip.





    Then once it's not slipping I will be taking it to a local bike dyno/remapping bloke and trying to get it going better. I think it's a slower engine than my old one (but maybe that's the clutch) but it also does more popping and banging than it used to, and the exhaust seems to be sooting up a lot. I'm using my same ECU and throttle bodies and new iridium plugs but must not be fuelling this new engine right. So hopefully in a few months it will be going like it used to !

    Did you not get the engine from a TNT, if so power would be down and it may not run on the Sagem ecu as well as your old engine, before you throw sheds of money at it.

    Just a thought .

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Engenia's Avatar
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    Errol Kowald
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    Chances are really high that all you need is an additional plain plate to get the stack back into spec. When my clutch went I bought new fibre plates but I shouldn't have. There was heaps of meat on the old ones.
    Mine went at 110 - 120 thousand km. The pusher plate was worn a bit as well, which didn't help. It's just alloy.

    The stack should be between 48 & 50 mm.

    Fibre plates are easy to find. They are the same as CR250, CR500, CRF450, TRX450, XL600, DL650, DRZ400 & SV650. Use Kevlar or carbon NOT cork!
    Surflex S2188/B (should be > 3.1 mm thick)
    Barnett 301-35-10012 (3.0 mm new)
    EBC SRC82

    The plain plates are available in a couple of thicknesses, but they are unique to Benellii / Surflex. Alex at Maniac Motors should be able to help.
    hooroo, Errol www.engenia.com.au [136,351 km - and counting .....]

  6. #5
    Senior Member ianh's Avatar
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    Clutch cover gasket can be reused if undamaged. Worth checking adjustment carefully at clutch end before assuming the plates are shot. From memory there is a screw and lock nut arrangement in the clutch centre. Did it mine years ago and been fine since.
    Hopefully it just needs mapping to sort the fuelling. Good luck!
    Pre Benelli, ZR50SL, RS100, BMW R50/5, RD400, CB350K4, GPZ550, CB900, 750 KATANA, GSXR750, FIREBLADE, TL1000S, 955i Daytona, GSXR 1100L, GSXR1000K6.....

    Now; 2003 900 Tornado, 2008 900 Tornado, 2009 CR 1130, 2010 1130 Tornado...and the diesels...Ducati 848 for when four italians are not enough... a 750 srad ....when 5 italians are too many.......and now an '81 Katana......for those mid life crisis days....

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    Do you have enough free play at the clutch actuator? The adjuster is in the middle of the clutch release bearing, so side cover would have to come off anyway.

    Does it slip when cold and get better as it warms up, or the other way around?

  8. #7
    Senior Member sammyboy92's Avatar
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    Sam Baines
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    The engine i got was from a tornado, had about 800miles more than my original. Off top of my head it's on about 15k miles now. I've spoke to the remapper who has all the software and leads to do a tornado , for £350 he will get it running bang on.
    I was planning on just buying the surflex fibre plates and getting my mechanic to throw them in when he MOTs it. I remember him mentioning adjusting it from inside the cover and he had a special little spanner ground thin to fit In. Maybe I will get him to take the cover off and have a look before I buy the plates. If a extra plain plate or simple adjustment will do the job. Their is a bit of free play in the lever, it is definitely worse when the bike is cold. But it doesn't really get much better when hot.
    Benelli tornado tre.
    MV Agusta f4
    Kawasaki kxf250
    Bmw 330cd
    Instagram- sam.baines22

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