camchain 900tre
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Thread: camchain 900tre

  1. #1
    Member Alec's Avatar
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    camchain 900tre

    I am a novice when it comes to working on my 900. Has hit 14000mls so thought about camchain service. Ive had conflicting info on this from has to be done, too shouldnt need doing as the chain can cope with far more miles, to the fault is with the tensioner. Ive been on Eugenes page and checked the tensioner and Im getting 49mm. I done this 3 times to make sure. Any advice or info would be welcome.

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    Senior Member Rick67's Avatar
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    Hi .
    I guess it all depends on how long you've had the bike , as regards to the measurements your getting .
    My adjuster foot moves about 1mm every 2-3k miles.
    On a tre k I believe it should last about 24000 miles. I did mine at about 18k if I remember correctly.
    In changing it I checked my guides we're ok and were indeed free to move ect.
    So for me changing it is cheap £30 tops and provides the clarification of condition inside with the added bonus of not having to do it for another 20k miles or so .

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alec View Post
    I am a novice when it comes to working on my 900. Has hit 14000mls so thought about camchain service. Ive had conflicting info on this from has to be done, too shouldnt need doing as the chain can cope with far more miles, to the fault is with the tensioner. Ive been on Eugenes page and checked the tensioner and Im getting 49mm. I done this 3 times to make sure. Any advice or info would be welcome.



    The RS does rev on a little bit more than the Tre, and gearing wise is about 1 mile per 1000 revs lower, through the gears. Hence its miles covered will have been done at slightly higher revs, in normal road use. (just a general comparison)
    I think you will find the "safe working area" is between 45 mm depth to 55 mm of the tensioner taking up the "slack". If it does not move between services, Worry! check the cam chain tensioner is running on the chain and working.
    I think the max extension (end of the line inwards) is 57mm
    I think Errol has an RS in bits at the moment, may even be back together by now.
    Somewhere I have seen a picture of the cam chain timing marks not lining up, when the chain is excessively worn, with the top cover off, but if you get that far , you might as well go the whole hog and change it anyway, the chain is only £30 ish from Brooke Barn Parts. Rick would love a mercy mission to Essex to help you out as a consultant.
    Over to you Errol.
    Last edited by freeatlast; 05-26-2020 at 08:42 AM. Reason: typo again

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    Senior Member Engenia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alec View Post
    .. camchain service. Ive had conflicting info on this from has to be done, too shouldnt need doing as the chain can cope with far more miles,
    It can't.

    At 25,000 km, the cam chain on a 900 Tornado is 0.5% worn. I have half a dozen chains hanging up all attesting to this. It is commonly accepted that at 1%, the cam chain of a car engine is due for replacement. The 900 revs twice as high and is tuned more accurately, so it shouldn't be allowed to get anywhere near this. The timing marks will no longer line up, so performance will have degraded.
    The chain won't break though, unless it is allowed to flap about, which can happen if the tensioner has stopped doing its job, which is why we need to keep tabs on it.

    The RS uses the same gearing as the standard Tre (as far as i know) so on average it will do the same number of turns in 25,000 km. The RS makes the extra power with a higher rev limit. So the chain replacement schedule is the same.
    ... to the fault is with the tensioner
    There have been instances of the pawl not working, forcing the spring to do all the work - it can't.
    tonydoc likes this.
    hooroo, Errol www.engenia.com.au [139,200 km - and counting .....]

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    RS gearing

    I have both the Tre and an Rs and agree the bikes use a common gear ratio , but running them side by side, the RS is down geared at the chain, ratio, giving it a quicker pick up.
    On the road in 6 th the Tre is 16mph /1000 and the RS gives 15 mph/1000. I have never ridden another RS so do not know if they are the same as mine .
    Both the Tre and the RS are 2004 built 2009 registered.
    I run the same tyre size 190 50 17 rear on all my tornado,s
    Last edited by freeatlast; 05-27-2020 at 12:46 AM. Reason: tyre note

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    Senior Member Engenia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freeatlast View Post
    the Tre is 16mph /1000 and the RS gives 15 mph/1000.
    Makes sense. My Tre arrived with 16/41 sprockets although the workshop manual (including the RS) reckons it should be 15/41. I've been using a 15/43 for most of its life. Jane's RS arrived with a 16T front, and she still runs that.
    So it depends on those sprockets. If your ratio is low, it will rev higher on average for the same distance traveled, wearing the cam chain out sooner. I think there is enough wriggle room though to still aim for a 25,000 km replacement schedule. 23,437 km worst case just seems awkward.
    hooroo, Errol www.engenia.com.au [139,200 km - and counting .....]

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    Member Alec's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info so far. Next question, how do I go about checking that the tensioner is operating correctly?

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    Senior Member tonydoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alec View Post
    I am a novice when it comes to working on my 900. Has hit 14000mls so thought about camchain service. Ive had conflicting info on this from has to be done, too shouldnt need doing as the chain can cope with far more miles, to the fault is with the tensioner. Ive been on Eugenes page and checked the tensioner and Im getting 49mm. I done this 3 times to make sure. Any advice or info would be welcome.
    I change mine before 16 k miles their only £24 from B&C express. Last one had stretched nearly a full link. Also had Bennetts do a tensioner spring upgrade.
    44300 miles .And Replacement Cam ChainNo 4,Replacment clutch plates No 1,New Radiator , 3rd set of coil sticks, DNA Filter, L E D rear light upgrade, Battery No 5 lithium. Upgraded battery cables.from 03/06/06 to 25/09/2019.

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    Quote Originally Posted by freeatlast View Post
    The RS does rev on a little bit more than the Tre, and gearing wise is about 1 mile per 1000 revs lower, through the gears. Hence its miles covered will have been done at slightly higher revs, in normal road use. (just a general comparison)
    I think you will find the "safe working area" is between 45 mm depth to 55 mm of the tensioner taking up the "slack". If it does not move between services, Worry! check the cam chain tensioner is running on the chain and working.
    I think the max extension (end of the line inwards) is 57mm
    I think Errol has an RS in bits at the moment, may even be back together by now.
    Somewhere I have seen a picture of the cam chain timing marks not lining up, when the chain is excessively worn, with the top cover off, but if you get that far , you might as well go the whole hog and change it anyway, the chain is only £30 ish from Brooke Barn Parts. Rick would love a mercy mission to Essex to help you out as a consultant.
    Over to you Errol.
    Quote Originally Posted by Alec View Post
    Thanks for the info so far. Next question, how do I go about checking that the tensioner is operating correctly?


    Now if you had been good and done your services at 4000 miles or at least regularly and read Errols guide and bible on keeping a Benelli Tornado well.
    You would have checked and monitored how far the tensioner had moved in at the last service, by keeping a record, you would have seen it gradually take up the slack in the chain until it gets close to the maximum, I think 53 mm is getting close to the edge of disaster, 57 mm is as far as it will go. after that it is the hands of the gods.
    Your 49 mm is about right for the miles you have done I would say, but as others have said 16000 miles is about the right time to change the chain.
    Check it now as you have , if it is running well , do a 1000 or so miles and check it again, hopefully it will have moved in a bit more and you will know it is working.
    Alternatively , buy a new chain and change it, as soon as you see the cam timing marks you will know if it needed doing.

  11. #10
    Senior Member sammyboy92's Avatar
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    At the risk of getting abuse I'm going to admit that I've never checked my tensioner . My engine is approaching that 15000 mile mark. And having already done one engine swap I dont want another so might change my chain whilst it's running well ! How big a job is it to do , is it a full engine out job.
    If the chain is only £30 , what would a rough labour cost be to have it done by someone who isn't a tool ?
    Benelli tornado tre.
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