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TNT Starting problem. Newbie

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Flyer1

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Recently bought a 2004 1130 TNT. Generally had Triumphs previously. Very reliable and always started on the button however long left over winter.
The Benelli is a different kettle of fish! Left in garage for a day and turned over once then battery dead. Probably needs a new battery I thought. New battery arrives( CTZ 12S). Fitted and fired up right away. Problem solved I thought. 3 days later, turned over a couple of times then nothing! Don't really want to ride anywhere carrying a spare battery! HELP!!
 
#2 ·
Hi Ian (Is Haggis really your surname? :)) These bikes are very heavy on the battery so you should have really fitted the largest capacity you could find i.e Yuasa YTZ14S which is rated at 230CCA. Not sure what the CTZ12S is rated at but I bet it's not as high.

A couple of other things you can try :-
Always keep the bike on a battery tender when the bike is not being used.

Fit another set of battery leads going to the starter relay/starter motor as the originals are under rated.
 
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#4 ·
I would check to see if you have something drawing current. But first, before you turn the ignition on or flip the bar switch to the run position, check the static voltage at the battery, then turn on only the key, check the reading, then flip the run switch and check voltage. Now, disconnect the positive lead from the battery, connect a test light between the cable and the battery post. Make sure the ignition is off as well as the kill switch button. The test light should stay out. If it lights, you have an open circuit somewhere. With the light still connected, open up the fuse box and systematically remove a fuse untill the light goes out. Now you've located the circuit that is open. Now the fun begins trying to pinpoint where exactly it's at. Could be a simple issue, or more complex. You just have to systematically go about diagnosing things.:)
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your quick response guys! Yes, my name really is Haggis and I'm sure I'll enjoy the TNT if I ever get it going! It was delivered up to me so I haven't ridden it yet. Currently under 3 " snow( not the bike! ). Will try the uprated battery Yuasa YTZ 14 first and see how I get on.
 
#8 ·
Laurencewhite said:
Hi Haggis (I like this better than Ian ;) ) Sound suggestions from the other guys but if you do decide to change the battery these are a pretty good price.
Click to expand...


Just noticed...why is there 13 people "watching" a battery for gawds sakes.:doh:



 
#9 ·
Battery

Welcome to our somewhat opinionated family. As for batteries, I currently (har har) use the Ballistic 12 cell LiFePo with mixed results. It really spins the beast over if ambient temps are above 60F. Below that, it needs to rest between attempts for 10 seconds or so (over 4 trys in 35F conditions). Key and kill switch off. The heat generated by the cycling wakes it up to a higher internal temp. A cable set from LWS66 is highly recommended to ensure long solenoid life. I verified the temp thing by heating the battery inside the house for two hours prior to a 40F/0700 ride out with no overnight charging.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Haggis it is then! Have ordered the Yuesa battery so hopefully that will solve the problem. The bike has only done 2500 miles with one previous owner who stored it for several years. Maybe he couldn't start the beast! Any other tips re the TNT WOULD BE WELCOMED
 
#11 ·
Would suggest to search for the faultissues while you`re waiting for new battery.
The CTZ12 would be able to turn the engine if fully charged and there must be anything that drawing current or bad connections... if so she will certainly suck out your new battery too.
Hook on a booster - if she starts go the #LSW66`s route.
 
#14 · (Edited)
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Discussion starter · #15 ·
Battery

Still awaiting the Yuasa battery and have also ordered a heavier duty set of cables for earth, positive, alternator and starter. Anyone fitted this mod? How difficult/ effective?
Just as a matter of interest, when I charge my existing battery the beast fires up. However, if it doesn't start on the first attempt the battery soon goes flat and will no longer turn the engine over.Is it too much to expect that when I turn the key and energise the starter the bike starts every time?:bawl:
 
#16 ·
My thoughts on cranking?? Compression/cylinder pressure can be measured in PSI or whatever other scale. For the same displacement, 3 pistons have more surface area than four so the PSI may be the same but there are more "square inches" per pot. Some one smarter than I may shoot this one down. That's OK, the learning never stops. Your existing battery appears to be weak. Let me know on the new one.
 
#17 ·
Your existing battery does sound weak. New YTZ 14S should sort it. New leads are nice to have but won't make enough difference if the battery is kaput

Erm....have you noticed any difference between starting from cold and starting when hot? Only 2004 bikes have a known problem with hot starting. Get the new battery on and report back

Pike
 
#18 ·
have also ordered a heavier duty set of cables for earth, positive, alternator and starter. Anyone fitted this mod? How difficult/ effective?
Click to expand...
They are pretty easy to fit but don't expect them to make too much of a difference, although they can only but help crank the starter over a bit better.
 
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#20 ·
tyguy said:
New battery cables from http://www.tnt-moto-cables.com/ solved my hot start problem. Worth any penny and an added piece of mine - at least in my case.
Click to expand...
If you really do have the Hot Start Problem, then all you've done is masked the problem. I hope that is not the case.

The Hot Start Problem is due to the Z25 & clutch intermediate gears losing their clearance when the bike is hot. When that happens, the alternator drive shaft MUST bend. It has no choice in the matter, and the starter isn't powerful enough to bend it. The engine is.

So the first thing to do if you think you have the HSP, is to check if you have the latest alternator drive shaft / Z25 gear. If you do, then you probably don't have the HSP, and the difficulty in starting when hot can be attributed to a weak battery and lossy cables not delivering the power needed to overcome the higher cylinder pressure of a hot engine.

I say "probably", because I know of one instance (maybe 2) that changing to the standard upgraded parts didn't solve the problem. A "special" gear/shaft was needed, which did sort it out.
 
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