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Hot Start issue? Maybe/Maybe not?

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h3avyt

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Keen to get your guidance on this:

2010 TNT 1130 Sport
  • Upgraded Battery Cables
  • New Standard batter (330CCA)
  • Bike has the Z25 gear + beveled washer

What happened:
  • Bike started perfect in the morning (garage, 25 degree C)
  • Ride 30mins + rest 20mins = bike started up perfectly (28 degree C)
- Rode 10mins + swapped bikes with the friend and bike didnt turn on (31 degree C):
Pressed starter --- 2 cranks and no start (it felt like it just didn't have enough power to turn the bike over anymore)
Pressed starter --- 1 crank and no start
Waited 10mins --- 1 crank no start
Attached jump pack --- Bike started up

I thought I had solved this issue with the new cables and battery but seems not - I keep losing faith and I dont ride this bike in the city anymore.
 
#2 ·
Given your first 3 bullet points ruling out HSP, I'd now be simply testing charge rate from alt at batt terminals when running and if alt output ok then perhaps the starter motor is dodgy.

Errol quote
'The Hot Start Problem is due to the Z25 & clutch intermediate gears losing their clearance when the bike is hot. When that happens, the alternator drive shaft MUST bend. It has no choice in the matter, and the starter isn't powerful enough to bend it. The engine is.

So the first thing to do if you think you have the HSP, is to check if you have the latest alternator drive shaft / Z25 gear. If you do, then you probably don't have the HSP, and the difficulty in starting when hot can be attributed to a weak battery and lossy cables not delivering the power needed to overcome the higher cylinder pressure of a hot engine.'
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
@RobShed Thanks!

1 - What range of voltage should I be seeing on the battery terminals when the bike is running?
2 - I didn't check the "alternator drive shaft" - I have seen some of the pics on Engenia's website, it looks very involved - any other ways to check this?
 
#6 ·
2. Also, you confirm the 'now machined i.e. NOT cast' Z25 and Bellleville washer to obviate loosening and end float.
Why on earth would anybody not change the alt drive shaft at the same time (the new one has ONLY 1 lube hole) ?
Popping the clutch cover off allows you to view the Z25 face. Expect some oil loss. You can re-use the gasket IF you remove carefully in the first place otherwise about 50 quid from Maniac Motors.
 
#10 ·
michael.w.holzer said:
Maybe a picture of your setup to accomplish this safely would be helpful to members?
Click to expand...
Sorry. No pictures.
I put a 25 mm board under the rear wheel and lowered the bike onto it from the track stand.
That'll vary according to the suspension setup and if you have shortened the side stand of course. Use the sight glass to judge the oil level as you rotate the bike.
 
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