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Hi thanks. Do you think the mapping or tuning has to do with it.
In my opinion Yes.
The A10101 map with an unrestricted exhaust , a little fine tuning of the fuelling map and dyno figures of 152 bhp are possible. Errol is on the money on the TPS setting. Make sure the throttles are closed fully as well. Starting , I give the starter a flick and stop, with no hand on the throttle. I then give it a crank, it fires immediately and runs at 1600 rpm, withing 15 seconds it starts to slow and settles at 1300 rpm.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
It starts like that. It always fires on the 2nd crank when cold not touching the throttle.
When hot for example after fuelling it starts first go.
The rpms are always good especially when cold between 13000 and 16000.
When hot and in traffic she is not gettin enough air sometimes and stalls othertimes she is fine in traffic can't tell when or why.
I keep her alive by just holding the throttle at approximately 2 percent and she doesn't stall.
Cheers Sammy
 
Well something is "tight" to strip those teeth, that is for sure. What it is, we all do not know , but I hope for your sake , you are not into yet another set of cogs. I can not imagine how much that bike has cost you now.
 
Now that I have the nelly apart I will check valve clearances since I now done 12000 km.
What should they be?
What about cam chain there any need checking tension and how much?
Thanks 🙏
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Looking at your picture of the three throttle bodies from above, no 1 would appear to be slightly open against 2 and 3.
Difficult to tell, only an observation. But if i is pulling harder on No 1 when the throttle opens , the engine is unbalanced. does it stop abruptly on shut off ? Or on stalling at low revs , you holding the throttle at 2% to try and compensate.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Yes it shuts off abruptly. The throttle bodies were completely closed last time I checked.
I used the engenia method. I am building a manometer as soon as my clear fuel lines have arrived.
Yes the bike has cost me lots. But that's also down to me and I mark it down as German term "Lehrgeld" meaning the cost of learning 🙂.
 
In a 2021 I bought from Maniac complete starter clutch with 17/67 gear,couldnt wait from factory. We fit those parts in a customer TREK 1130.The parts last for 1500km.Starter clutch totaly died,Z 17/67 was damaged in a level that can not be re used.
We put used parts in the bike, and it works even today.That TREK from a customer still comes on regular meintenence,used parts still work.
Conclusion,do not exclude parts quality.
Teeth on the gears can also cracking if hardening process is not good.This is my opinion as machine-mehanical engineer.
 
With this comment in mind, I think as you already have an original "used "set available. I would fit what you have already got. If that fails ,you will know there is a problem in the bike , not the parts you are fitting.
I would not go down the cheaper options route.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Like I mentioned in the other thread I have the bike back together.
Because I couldn't figure out why it wasn't starting (battery 😭) I also checked and cleaned injectors. One actually wasn't spraying.
Checked and replaced sparkplugs with my old non iridium ones.
When I had all that done like I said it did work and started with fully charged battery.
So the old starter clutch is holding up and didn't break anything even when the voltage was really low... So far 😬.
My new battery I had to get delivered to Germany because funnily Amazon doesn't seem to ship those batteries to Ireland anymore.
So I will have to wait another week until it will arrive here. Then we will see.
 
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