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Discussion Starter #1
So thought i`d ask all in the same thread.

- First is the mystery bolt thats in the picure, it was on a box of bits, dont know where it belongs, actually there are two of them!
- Is the wiring harness the same on 900 rs and 1130 Tornados?
- Does anyone have a picture of wire harness routing? Mine was all over the place, like cut and shut job....
- Where is the horn attached to? Picture? Mine was like hanging thereabouts...

Thanks in advance to you great people for all the help i have received! And hope to continue to receive....
 

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So thought i`d ask all in the same thread.

- First is the mystery bolt thats in the picure, it was on a box of bits, dont know where it belongs, actually there are two of them!
- Is the wiring harness the same on 900 rs and 1130 Tornados?
- Does anyone have a picture of wire harness routing? Mine was all over the place, like cut and shut job....
- Where is the horn attached to? Picture? Mine was like hanging thereabouts...

Thanks in advance to you great people for all the help i have received! And hope to continue to receive....
Chain tensioner bolts out of the swinging arm , its what you use to align the back wheel and take up chain slack,
RS is Sagem , 1130 Tornado is Walbro so that will be a No
Most of the loom goes down the exhaust side of the bike.
When I get round to service on my 1130 tornado , can send you some pictures with all the plastics off and tank and airbox off.
Horn is behind the oil cooler up under the head stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Chain tensioner bolts out of the swinging arm , its what you use to align the back wheel and take up chain slack,
RS is Sagem , 1130 Tornado is Walbro so that will be a No
Most of the loom goes down the exhaust side of the bike.
When I get round to service on my 1130 tornado , can send you some pictures with all the plastics off and tank and airbox off.
Horn is behind the oil cooler up under the head stock.

Awesome!! Thank you, would be great to see the pics while plastics off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well i have more, questions i mean.

Can i leave the flap actuator motor of and just plug the connector, or does it throw a code?
 

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Well i have more, questions i mean.

Can i leave the flap actuator motor of and just plug the connector, or does it throw a code?
Some leave it attached to the back of the block , plugged in but cables removed to the flap and wired open., Its a 12 v solenoid that opens and closes, opening or shutting the flap.
Others remove it completely and just leave the 2 pin plug in the loom ,but not connected to anything . neither seem to make the bike pick up, its not functioning , or working.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, more questions.

Was buttoning up the clutch and thought i`d ask is this really where one of the o-rings goes for? Outside the bearing, it squeezes between the bearing and the spacer that comes next...

When i took it apart, it was on the other side of the bearing, just to confuse things even more. But the parts diagram on Maniac site says it comes like this on my pic.
 

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Ok, more questions.

Was buttoning up the clutch and thought i`d ask is this really where one of the o-rings goes for? Outside the bearing, it squeezes between the bearing and the spacer that comes next...

When i took it apart, it was on the other side of the bearing, just to confuse things even more. But the parts diagram on Maniac site says it comes like this on my pic.
had the same doubt, so I put two: one in the back and one in the front of that bearing :) they dont move, just prevent oil to pass between the main shaft and the bearing race... so putting a 1mm oring wont hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You really are being very much help for me, cant thank enough!

So i have to buy a 1mm o-ring tomorrow, to put at the back of the bearing too. Im just afraid that it will prevent the proper contact between the bearing and spacer behind it, and thus leaving some unwanted wobble on there?

While on the clutch subject, im making another centering tool to help the clutch housing assembly in the future, would you happen to need one?
 

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the bearing races, have some "roundness" in the edges, when you put a 1mm there, and press it hard, the o-ring just "dissapears" in that roundess, modling to and filling it

abou centering, just put everything on place (i used a new seal) and try a few screadrivers to check the same freespace between the seal and the shaft...
its just a try & error until you find one that must go around the shaft without much contact to the seal....

it sounds complicated, but its very easy and it actually works.

I changed the 5 orings and the main seal of the cluct 1000kms ago (the bike was leaking) and now it does not leak anything, is dry as a parrot tonge
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I still used the tool i made, its unbelievable that this cover has no centering dowels!!

Have to see if it leaks when i get the new injectors and fire it up.

Would you have a pic where the horn goes? I just cant figure it out....
 

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I still used the tool i made, its unbelievable that this cover has no centering dowels!!

Have to see if it leaks when i get the new injectors and fire it up.

Would you have a pic where the horn goes? I just cant figure it out....
If you get on the exhaust side of the bike, look up to the right of the oil cooler from under the fairing you can see the horn bolted up behind the fairing, you can just see the two electrical spade end insulated connectors on the top of the horn. there are some pics but not easy to see.
bike , tank off, air box on ,but you can see some of the electrical layout. got other projects at the moment but will get in deeper soon . DSCF1421.JPG DSCF1414.JPG DSCF1415.JPG DSCF1417.JPG DSCF1416.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Put the alternator on tonight, and while checking the clearance between z25 axle bolt and alternator nut, i found there really isn`t any...

So i put 0.85mm spacers between the alternator and block, what do you think? Have i possibly created more problems doing this.
 

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Put the alternator on tonight, and while checking the clearance between z25 axle bolt and alternator nut, i found there really isn`t any...

So i put 0.85mm spacers between the alternator and block, what do you think? Have i possibly created more problems doing this.
hi,

id be interested to find out how you know this? as you'd need to fit things together first surely....
ive not heard this mentioned before . hopefully you've found a new thing to check out :bow::D
 

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id be interested to find out how you know this? as you'd need to fit things together first surely....
Easy to do Rick.
Clean the nut head and stick a blob of Plasticine to it.
Smear a film of oil on the shaft bolt to stop plasticine sticking to it then assemble it.
Take it apart again and use a scalpel to bisect the plasticine then measure the depth.

Here's some pics of the exhaust valve clearance measurement in the 944
01Ex.jpg 06ExGraphicalMeast.jpg
I used the same method to measure the alternator nut clearance in Nell. There was heaps, even with a standard R8.8 bolt head.
 

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0.65 mm should be fine. That's a lot of expansion.
Aluminium moves twice as much as steel per degree, so the gap should increase at operating temperature, not decrease.
All bets are off north of the Arctic Circle though.
 
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