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Discussion Starter #1
So far I'm really enjoying the bike. It's nice and smooth and makes good low and midrange power. It will cruise on the highway at 80mph (after recalibrating the speedometer) with ease. Currently my top speed is around 97mph (actual), and my fuel mileage is around 40mpg. The top end feels tight and like it should have more power than it does, and so I'm hoping more power and better gas mileage happen as the bike breaks in.

While I know the bike isn't due for a valve check until 15,000 miles (25,000km), I went ahead and checked them anyways at 1200 miles, and I have one tight intake valve (0.13mm), and five more valves that are at the low end of the clearance limits (all three remaining intakes are at 0.15mm and two exhaust valves are at 0.20mm). So I'm probably going to get a shim kit and do the valves sooner rather than later.

For anyone following the service manual to remove the valve cover, there are some steps missing. In addition to removing the throttle cables, you need to remove the bracket the throttle cables attach to. You also need to unplug and unbolt the stepper motor, detach the left hose at the manifold, and rotate it out of the way. The two zip ties holding the wiring harness to the frame must be clipped and the harness pulled to the left, out of the way. The two ABS brake hard lines need to be unclipped from the frame near the steering neck, and they need to be pushed to the side as you're rotating the valve cover. Also for some reason, getting the valve cover in way WAY easier than getting it out. I also suggest replacing the phillips screws on the stepper motor and the throttle cable brackets with allen bolts. I had to use a hand impact driver to break loose the two screws that hold the throttle cable bracket to the intake manifold, and the ones on the stepper motor are made of cheese, and both were damaged by removal.

Charles.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, the intake manifold has one solid bar that both butterflies attach to. So there is no way to balance the vacuum between cylinders. I dunno if it's the cause, but my bike has a bit of an unstable, lumpy idle. I went in there thinking I could balance the intakes, like have done with all my carbureted bikes and also my fuel injected SCR950, but no dice on the Leoncino. There is no balancing. I wonder if that's what the stepper motor is supposed to do? No clue really. It doesn't cause a stumble off of idle so it's really not an issue, and it seems to be getting better with miles, so I think it's just a character of the bike.

Oh, does anyone know what the valve shim diameter is? There are a bunch of affordable K&L kits out there, I just need to know the diameter of the shims so I can buy the right one. The thickness range I know is 1.60mm to 2.275mm.

Charles.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh, I did find one issue with my bike. Two of the clamps on the high-pressure fuel line from the fuel pump were not crimped, and were loose on the hose. Fortunately I didn't have a leak, and double fortunately I own the proper tool to crimp these correctly.

Charles.
 

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Very useful information about those additional steps for removing the valve cover, thank you for sharing with us!
 

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There is an Allen screw on the rear shock. It's a kind of set screw or so. Do you know what is this screw for? I couldn't find any reference to this screw in the manuals.


DSC_4800_1.JPG DSC_4801_1.JPG
 

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Ha never notice the Allen key screw I will have a sus.its amazing what someone else's fresh eyes pick up....the lumpy idle I have same deal and it's crap when cold...I was putting it down to my decat and airbox mod but was fairly sure it had issue before that so I'm not the only one.sweet
 

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I would think the screw just locks the preload adjuster from moving around the shock. But I am not familiar with this bike.
 

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I would think the screw just locks the preload adjuster from moving around the shock. But I am not familiar with this bike.
100% correct . It just locks the hydraulic preload adjuster into its desired position so it doesn’t rotate and hit into frame etc .
 

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I see, this locking screw prevents the rotation of the preload adjuster along the long axes of the shock.
Thanks for the explanation!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ha never notice the Allen key screw I will have a sus.its amazing what someone else's fresh eyes pick up....the lumpy idle I have same deal and it's crap when cold...I was putting it down to my decat and airbox mod but was fairly sure it had issue before that so I'm not the only one.sweet
Tell me about your airbox mod?

Did you remove the cats in the headers as well? Or just the collector box?

Charles.
 

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I took front plate off airbox it's bout 4 svrews so it just flows straight into box it opens it up hard haven't had any issues in rain or anything.full details under chinelli mods thread I posted.decated it the first day I got it it sounds sick look so straight try pipes .every chino needs decating
 
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