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Curious to know if the cush rubbers in the sprocket carrier have turned to bricks. Seems a long shot, but if they are solid it would accentuate the sound as the backlash in the gears is taken up.
 

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I expect you'll find that, like my Tornado, it runs rich below 6000 rpm, but spot-on above. A legacy of its racing heritage. The upside of running rich at low revs is that it keeps the engine a little cooler. The downside, on the road, is that a lot of time is spent at low revs, when you expect to get better mileage, and don't.
It can be fixed. I did it by installing a Motty AFR Tuner, sadly no longer available. If I was to do it again, now, I would be logging AFR/throttle position/ gear and speed, and carefully modifying the map until it was much closer to 13:1 throughout the used range.
Maybe worth to update the text in Fitting a Motty AFR Tuner with this info and new solution idea?
 

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What would you like me to add?
Actually I'd suggest to:
1) change the current page title and menu from "Why Install an AFR Tuner?" & "How to fit an AFR Tuner" to "How to improve fuel consumption"
2) move point 2 up to top of page
3) create a new "Historic Archive" top level menu item
3) move all references to AFR Tuner under this new section because its no longer applicable

Does that make sense?
I could send you a revised html file with above changes
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
New issue today
Clocks light up. Warning lights work.
Temp and tach do not go through the typical range of motion with key on. No display of fuel/temp/speed
Bike fires up normally.

looks like it is time to get the dielectric grease and emory paper, maybe the soldering gun, out for some good old fashioned fiddling.

Every day is an adventure

edit. Removed the purple lock from the connector, reattached and relocked
Problem solved
 

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Actually I'd suggest to:
1) change the current page title and menu from "Why Install an AFR Tuner?" & "How to fit an AFR Tuner" to "How to improve fuel consumption"
2) move point 2 up to top of page
3) create a new "Historic Archive" top level menu item
3) move all references to AFR Tuner under this new section because its no longer applicable

Does that make sense?
I could send you a revised html file with above changes
Email it to me mate. Saves me the effort if you have already done it. Just keep it really simple. No smarty pants html editors that place unnecessary rubbish. gedit is smart enough.
The only issue I've got with documenting the "long winded" solution to improving economy, is that I haven't done it, so I can't talk from experience. I don't know who has either.

The Menu is a tad more complicated, as you will see if you look at the top level html.

There's a section on a head up display that is also obsolete. It could find a place next to the AFR Tuner install.
Mind you, there are a couple of Tornados with AFR Tuners installed, so the information isn't completely obsolete.
 

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Dry connection on some of the pins?
To be expected on a vehicle that hasn't moved in a while. Contacts continually oxidize, but because they generally move through vibration, the oxide is constantly worn away. When they don't move, the oxide builds up and forms a higher resistance joint. When they are eventually called on to do their job, the current flow exacerbates the situation, heating the joint and making the oxide grow faster, to the point that the connection is lost. Simply unplugging and re-plugging wipes the oxide off, restoring the connection.

Those of us who use our bikes year round generally don't have the problem, but if you put your vehicle to bed for 6 months of the year, or longer, it is best to unplug and re-plug every connector before resurrection.
 

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Had the same issue with my LE which was a climate stored zero mile bike. I put a zip tie around the purple connector and fixed it. I think it's not a tight connection to begin with and eventually loosens after riding.
 
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