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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While having things apart i thought I'd upgrade the battery cables, i bought 2 long 1 short complete with instructions although these are baffling me. The trek has fuses behind the seat so may be different to the other models and everything is spliced.
So if i want to piggybacking the positive it goes to which solenoid, and where does the earth go best. Also the short cable, mine went from alternator to starter motor, these instructions are saying go from starter to the other relay, that can't be right surely.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok. Fat cable upgrade completed, was an almighty squeeze, bit of chopping about and rerouting, longer battery - tive bolt because I've got extras. It seems to have a punchier start, starting on the button now it's warmed up but a few test runs and I'll know better.
Regarding the alternator shaft, i didn't pull it out, all seems well, i know I'm taking a chance but I'll be keeping an ear and eye on it. Replaced bolt with fat head, new washer, loctited and torqued, i used triumph 955 alternator rubbers, i had to trim them down a bit, you get an o ring with them £20.
This is my cabin of sin, it's benelli o'clock all the time. Lot's of swearing emits from this hut, but eventually a smiling biker rolls out the door
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I did this upgrade two times now on my Benelli TNTs and this is my feedback:

Upgrade 1:
Cables: Pre-cut cable kit
Battery: No upgrade 300CCA
Feedback: not a massive upgrade, I can crank for longer.

Upgrade 2:
Cables: DIY (Jaycar electronics)
Battery: New battery 340CCA
Feedback: This is a much better combo, cranks faster and can crank longer (not needed). Battery cables were WAY cheaper to DIY ($50 all up)

Note: IF you upgrade the cables then do a DIY and spend the saving on a battery. At minimum a fresh battery (>$200) with diy cables ($50) will give much better results.
Note 2: ALL (4 so far) TNTs that i have come across dont start on the first go when sitting more than a few hours. Its a big engine, takes a couple/few cranks.
 
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