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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I've un plugged everything that wasn't imperative (one headlamp, city lamps, one fan and the exhaust actuator) to reduce the pull on the battery and it's still shitty. Has anyone fitted any higher quality components than the original parts?

At first, I was thinking that it could be the battery but the dealer told me that they changed it to a Yuasa before selling it.

Then I read (a few horror stories) on this forum about the alternator. Is there a better one that we can fit to replace the crappy original one?

But finally, it hit me that, even if the alternator is fragile and the battery not the most powerful one, it could be a badly rated power regulator. Now, that's a trickier part to cross-match but i'm certain that it can be done. It really looks like a potential culprit because i now give the battery a good charge with the car (car running and bike off) once a week and it runs like a charm for about three days and goes downhill from there.

The bike only has 4000 KM, i'm sure that something can be done.

Anyone?
 

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Engenia is gonna have a field day with this post Olivier;) He should be logging on in the next couple of hours so watch this space buddy:D

Al;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is a powerful statement...

I hope that he's got a few gems that are not yet on his web site. ;)
 

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Morning lads (& lassies).
Olivier, your problem, as I understand it, is that the alternator doesn't supply enough charge to supply the bikes needs, and the battery power slowly degrades. Yes?

Assuming that's the case, if you have Tuneboy, or access to an Axione, check to see if the ECU has logged any faults. P1560, P0560, P0562 & P0563 are possible.

Couple of things you could check....
(You'll need to install an ammeter - NOT in the starter cct.)
- What is current drain on the battery at 0 rpm (ignition on but everything off)?
- What is current drain on the battery at 5000 rpm?
- Remove the alternator, and get it tested. Need to work out how fast to spin it though, for an equivalent 5000 engine rpm.

The alternator is rated at 48A @ 13.5V & 5000 rpm. So it's got plenty of capability. I run high & low beam lights together, plus an AT, and I've not had any problems, so the equipment is adequate for standard use.
 

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Voltage regulator lives in the alternator. Doesn't mean it's not crook, but all it does, is hold the alternator voltage to 13.5 V, by controlling the field winding voltage. As the alternator current increases, the o/p voltage drops, so the regulator raises the field voltage to compensate.

The first step is to check the alternator, then it's internals, if necessary.

If the alternator's crook, it could be brushes, windings, high resistance connections in the rotor or stator, or the regulator. So all need to be looked at.

If it's fine, you've got a mild current drain somewhere. Maybe a short in the loom or some component drawing too much. The ECU may log this.
 

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I knew Errol wouldn't let you down:rolling: He knows everything about everything except why Cornflakes go soggy when you put milk on them:D

Al:D
 

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Un-equivocally No, as they say, Brown or Pink stop and think. ( Never temped the brown thought...)

As my old snooker loving grandad used to say "If you can't pot the pink, pot the brown" or "If the river runs red, take the dirt track instead";)

Al:D
 

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As my old snooker loving grandad used to say "If you can't pot the pink, pot the brown" or "If the river runs red, take the dirt track instead";)

Al:D
al you never fail to amaze me with your quotes!!!!!!!! :rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling:
 
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