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The Texa is the dogs bollocks diagnostic unit, if your friend has the correct version and cable. Has he got a CO or AFR meter? If you set these at tickover and 3000 rpm the rest should be close enough. Obviously a tune on a rolling road is better if you can afford it. The stalling is related to mixture and stepper motor so check the stepper is free and working, then set your CO but generally if you close the throttle more slowly just above tickover it can help as the stepper can be slow to react. The engine is quite reliable as long as you check for the common faults.
 

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My advice use tune ECU to load a good base map . Plenty of us on here have one and I'm sure we're all up sharing .
You may also have a defective Throttle position sensor.
I agree with gbo about stepper motor they can give all sorts of issues if not working correctly.
You should be able to get 6 to 7 L/100kms with a good map .
I regularly get 44miles(69km) to every 4.54L .
You'll get there soon .
 

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Weirdly Glynn it's every since those new injectors off Lawrence (last set sorry guys) after my ECU meltdown and the Arrow race can combined ! ..
I think I have got a couple of spare sets of the 12 hole injectors left, need to go up in the attic ( bit like you know who ) but my attic ain,t as big as his.
 

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, need to go up in the attic ( bit like you know who ) but my attic ain,t as big as his.
Not sure who you could be referring to matey :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Thank u for all those advises :) I think that (in case of temperature and, stalling etc) i have to buy new TPS, so i will order it (this from BMW is the same one, and cheap - orginal one over 220 euro so... - thank u Engenia for ur website with all informations :D), 2 days ago when I accelerated a bit on first gear, and then engine started to brake it was like jumping, i mean i nearly crashed, couse whole bike starts to jumping like haunted - no shimmy, it was like pulling and releasing brake 50times in a second. Idle rpm's are once higher, once lower, as i said before, those stalls from nowhere like yesterday when he just stalled on middle of intersection - i was lucky that noone was there to run over me... If i remember well, when i was setting TPS in TEXA, closed position was about "55" and max throttle was "250" or sth like this. I mean, closed position should be 0 I guess? So i will buy new tps, check this and if not I will check stepper then. If still not, i will try remapping. IF THEN NOT, i will burn it up :mad: (joking)

But, as always this "but"... There is a chance that my adventure with italian automobile ended yesterday. I was riding highway to test fuel consumption (another tps related thing) and temperature. It was like always, about 95-100*C whole time - just in the middle between 3rd and 4th line on clock. And then i started to hear very, very sad sounds from my engine. I thought that's maybe fairing, or clutch basket but nah. Straight from the right engine cover. The hollow rattle of metal that grew louder and louder, so i pulled over, and called for my brother with Ducato to pick me from there. It was sounds like engine shell bearing so u know... This bike hate me. What a messy crap i bought. I mean not all Benelli's are like that, i know, but this one is :( I hope that's mb my mechanic messed sth with timing tensioner, and timing chain only get loosed, but u know how can i feel today. He will be back in monday and we will check this.

This is never ending story guys, never ending... :bawl:
 

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Ooh that doesn’t sound good. Maybe drop the oil first and see if there is any debris, or take clutch cover off and have a look (this can be done without draining oil just lean bike over a little) good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I really want to check this, but i will wait for my mechanic. I mean i bought this bike from him (he is a seller). I did only about 800-900km on this bike, becouse 90% of time that I have him, he was in his workshop (i bought Benelli year ago...). So u know, I don't want to touch anything, couse he may tell me that i broke sth or etc.
When I was changing oil 3 days ago, there was little metal fragments on magnet, not much but was. For sure they were on magnet so it cannot be aluminum - he told me thats is normal, thats why magnet is there and "just go ride", so u know.. :(
 

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My advice use tune ECU to load a good base map . Plenty of us on here have one and I'm sure we're all up sharing .
And what is a good Map for a 1130 TNT Century Racer???

I have this same issues and have all maps!! downloaded from the Tune ECU site and put it in my PC/Tablet, butt dont know wich one i must choose, I have the same consumption problems and will do a remapping for this bike....
also will do insert the 3 Coils ,Iridium sparks, stepper,Z25 mod,Battery cableset,DNA Airfilter,O2 sensor,Kat replacement tube,and many more things etc etc butt i have to wait for do this untill at last off this year......<img src="http://www.benelliforum.com/forum/images/smilies/mad.png" border="0" alt="" title="Mad" class="inlineimg" /> wil do also then TPS reset,CO adjusment etc butt i dont know wich Map i must choose for basic
My consumpion is 70Km on a full tank..and only 3000Km on the bike
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Hello again :)

I'm not giving up soo early, so i want to inform all (if someone was following this thread) that my Benelli is back to life - if we not consider engine as a soul of a bike :D
Yea, i have new engine installed, it was last year, but i didnt had time to wrote about it here. Bike is running (i think) quite good, i mean there is no more stalling issue, no more overheating (it's still quite hot, but not overheating) no more wavy RPM's,

I have no idea, what was the problem with previous engine, we think it could be a piston pin, but we didn't checked this at all. I mean we opened nearly whole engine, but we didn't found any clue, so that was our guess on that strange "engine shell" like sound.

But becouse I'm a bit paranoic after all of this (I can have reasons, right? :D) i have few questions for U. I know some of them was talked on this forum, but i really want to have 100% sure, couse as I said beofre - I'm a bit paranoic after 2 years of repairing my lovely Benelli :D

1. Water temperature :
I know, that this analog indicator of water temp. is not 100% accurate, but I want to be sure, is it normal, that even if temp. outside is like 15-20*C Fans are cutting in while city crusing? I mean, when I'm riding about ~50km/h or any car is in front of me temperature is rising noticeably, and fans starts their work. After 20-30sec. temperature is falling down, and after another 1-2 min of that kind of ride it's same story again. It's not overheating! It's just running on fans most of time in city/slower riding. While I'm riding on the "open" road, or faster, indicator is on that big middle needle (~90*C?) While I'm riding in city, or just slower than 70-80km/h its a bit higher, not exactly at the middle. When I stop, nearly immiedlty temperature is rising up, and fans turn in. Normal? Not normal? :D I don't want to buy another engine so U know :D Remember, that Im talking about 15-20*C outside. In 30*C it's nearly same situation, mb a bit faster, but not much diffrent. There is no any "hot start" issue, or sth like this. My Z25 is brand new, and it's starting from first crank if its hot. I noticed too, then when I accelerate agressivly, I mean like u know, for ex. second gear, and "lift off" temperature is rising very noticebly. I know, that under heavy acceleration every engine will be hotter, but isn't it "too fast"? Can it be becouse fuel mix is too poor? Can it be related to my second question, or is it 100% normal, at least with Benelli :D

2. Fuel pump question
We checked fuel filter and it was nearly completly clogged (is it good word? :D) I mean, there was sooo much dirty things inside, that I guess this was cousing stalling issue. We cleaned everything, i couldn't bough new filter then (i bought it now, will change it) but we cleaned everything as much as we could. Diffrence in power delivery was significently, but still it's sometimes he sneezes, or "choke" for a milisecond. Mostly when I'm riding whith consistant speed/rpm. Not offten, quite rare, but I guess it shouldn't. When engine is cold, after night, or few days without riding, it's need few more turns when starting. My mechanic told me, that I need to replace fuel pump, couse that one was little damaged becouse of this dirty shit in fuel tank. Is he right? I guess he is, so do u know any alternatives for fuel pump than orginal one? I don't want to buy chinese shit from Aliexpress or sth like this. I found pump "MTM Motorisierung Technik UG" but there is no even 1 opinion about this. Maybe someone bought this, and can say sth? Pressure is ok?

3. Engine sound
Last question for now, is about engine sound. Is this normal, that engine sound a bit harsh/rough/mettalic? I know that triple engine is not Honda 4 in line, but as I said before - I have to be sure :D
I recorded engine sound, and I will post it later on YT and send u link. There is no any claping, loud mettalic sound like with previous engine, It's hard to describe, but if it's normal u will understand me (i hope) :D

Thanks guys for all answers :) Have a nice day, and I wish u another 100.000km on your clock's without problems :D

PS My exhaust valve stuck open, but I guess it's not bad for an engine :giggle:

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Plant Tire Wheel Vehicle Plant Automotive lighting Wheel Tire Automotive tire Automotive lighting Tread Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive lighting
 

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The temperature does seem to rise too quick. Have you looked for any blockages in the radiator or that the thermostat works or that air is trapped somewhere. These engines are very very noisy, it is best to find another and listen to that and you will see it is normal. What was in the fuel filter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Thanks for ur answer. Thermostat is working, we checked him before. I tried to bleed the system (from engenia page), but there wasn't any noticebly change - my mechanic told me even, that there is no need to bleed coling system in motorcycle, but i did it. How can i check any blockages in the radiator? (sorry, im newbie in case of mechanics things etc)
What was in the fuel filter? Nothing specific, sth simmilar to "sand", but it wasn't sand. It looked, like it was never cleaned before. Fuel filter was orginal. It was on the previous engine, so this cannot damaged new one (i hope).

Engine was bought from "friend of my friend". His z25 twisted inside engine. I have brand new z25 set, so we used my z25 set, and everything that broke there. He told me, that engine was running perfectly before, but he wasn't paying attention to temperature :( It's from 2009 TnT Sport evo.

I noticed too, that when i start the engine (full cold, after night) it's take only about 4-5 min to get to the middle needle. Then it's stay there for another ~4 min (even if im not riding). If i will ride fast, or on open roads it will stay there (never below middle needle). If i will ride slow, city traffic, or stationary, it will rise until fans kick in (~103*C). Fans are cooling it down, but only until ~98*C, and then same story again. What is super strange for me, is that fans sometimes cutting in even while im riding - mb not super fast, but 40-50km/h isn't idle, am I right? :) Fans starts always in 3/4 between middle big needle, and 4th one. It is 103*C (we connected computer to check this). My previous Honda had some problems to maintain 90*C while riding (15*C outside temp.) Benelli sometimes need fans to not overheat... :unsure:

I cannot be sure, couse this is analog indicator, but for me it looks like this :
Riding in city traffic = 95*C, and temp is rising up if there is car in front, or stopping at lights etc.
Riding fast, highway, or sth like this = 90*C, never below :ROFLMAO: at least if we look at the indicator.

U saying, that these engines are very very noisy. So i guess thats it. I cannot hear any "bad" sound, it's just noisy, harsh. I will post video later anyway :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Can anyone else please, tell me your opinion on this? Is Yours bike behaving similar in case of coolant temperature? Im using Motul Coolant (yellow/green color). Is it quite normal for TnT, or there is sth wrong with my cooling system? (new engine, so I guess, there is no other option than sth is wrong with radiator, etc.) I measured radiator temp, and they are both on nearly same temp. Left one is littlebit cooler, but there is ~3*C - 4*C diffrent max between them. Mb i need to flush whole system?

I noticed too, that on idle, is nearly immposible to lower temp to the point, where fans are stop their work. If I will start ride, it will cool down bit enough to ~95*C.
On idle (no riding) temp. is "stuck" on about 100-103*C

Thanks :)

PS Videos of engine sound. At the end of the first 2 videos, You can see temp indicator - Its like this in the city, for 90% of time riding in city traffic. Sometimes fans cool it down a littlebit if i ride, but mosty its using fans for 90% of time. As I said before, when I'm riding on open roads, or fast (over 90km/h) indicator is on this big one needle in the middle.
1. - Engine sound 1
2. - Engine sound 2
3. - Revving up
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
Hello again :)
I have quick update. I think that temperature problem is solved. I changed Idle CO map 0 to "1.27" and Idle CO map 1 to "1.13". I mounted new fuel pump, and Benelli is warming up properly, I mean it's about few minutes to get 90*C - not 30-60 seconds like before :D Idle temperature is more stable too, even when riding behind truck its about 90-95. When it's hot day, in city traffic fans are not bored, they are working quite often, but when I start riding again temp is quite fast dropping down to 95-90*C. I even noticed, that when temp. outside is lower than 20*C, Benelli has got like ~88*C (just mm below this thick line in middle) - or it's should be like this? :ROFLMAO:

But, as I already get used to, when something is repaired, other things breaks :LOL: (tbh, I'm not sure if its broken or it is normal - thats why I want to ask one last time)

1. Fuel consumption. Before CO change it was 8-11l /100km with power map (I didn't checked eco map, I forgot it exist :ROFLMAO:) 8 - 9l on highways, 10-11 in city.
Now, it's 10-11 on highway, and 12-13 in city with power map and with eco map it is 8-9 highways, and 10-11 city. What is the most important thing here. Im quite calm rider, I'm not speeding everytime, and everywhere. 3/4 of time riding is typical "chill" riding - on highways 140-160km/h (i don't like to lean on bike like James Bond while escaping from 3 mashine guns shooting to him).
Is it normal? Sth is damaged, or sth can damage with that high fuel consumption? I read about engine maps, but I don't have soft to change them and test right now. I talked to one Italian guy, who has like 5 of TnT's, and he told me, that my fuel consumption is quite normal, and 2 of his Benelli's eating even 15-16l/100km (wtf :ROFLMAO:) Or I just have to ride, have fun, and don't think about this, couse everything is fine? :D

2. "Stalling" - nightmare comeback. It's not like it was at the start of my Benelli journey, but it's starts to pissing me off. TnT started to stall again, but only when I'm clutching, changing gear down, or stopping at lights etc. On idle its fine, never ever stalled again while idle. I noticed, that when I clutch in in last moment, stalling is more rare, but even then it's happen sometime. Riding in traffic behind car is a freaking nightmare, couse I have to use clutch often while ~10km/h, stop and go, and bike can stall in any moment. It's annoying, embarrsing, and quite dangerous tbh.
It's happing much often on "ECO" map, than on full power map. I noticed too, that on ECO map, it's quite hard to start moving, I have to use much more throttle, than on full power map (but I guess it's strict map related thing)
Bike started to stalling after oil change. I changed from 15w50 Motul 7100 synth. to 15w50 Motul 300v - but I have no idea is it becouse of this, or it's just a coincicende?

Other thing I noticed, is that when Benelli has got temp between about 80-88*C, Idle rpm's are about 1100. Normally, it's ~1250-1300, but in that spot it's like 1100 and engine sounds, like it's not enough rpm for him to idle. When it''s ~90*C or higher (or lower than 80*C) idle speed is normal, only in this spot. I noticed too, that on Full power map, sometimes rpm's jumping a little bit, from 1200-1500 but only when engine is cold. Eco map is quite stady in this case.

I read like whole forum, and there is million answers, I have no idea what to check :( There is no any Benelli or even Italian workshop near me, I guess the closest one is Maniac, (I know that they are the best) but it's still like nearly 1000km from my city.

If anyone will be kind enough to give me a hint or advice, I would be very grateful. Thanks greetings :)

PS Can I do sth with this bloody broken feature with lights turning off while fans are working? It's soo anoying while riding in night, couse a lot of ppl open their windows to tell me that i have my lights off, or I just blinking like maniac while slow riding in traffic. (or this shit is map related too, as I read somewhere?)
 

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Have you actually checked what the CO is? The number on tuneecu doesn’t really mean anything as many factors can effect the CO. I was told set CO to 4% at 3000rpm then set idle CO to 1.5-2.5%. Do it in that order as global co also adjusts idle co.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Thanks for ur fast replay :) Ok, so unfortunetly, i don't have TuneECU, I only have access to TEXA (my friends is a mechanic). Someone said here, that TEXA is powerfull tool, but I only can change this things :
1. CO Idle map 0 (Was 1.00 on old engine, now set to 1.27 - that value was on ECU from which i got new engine - TnT sport evo 2008)
2. CO Idle map 1 (Was 1.00 on old engine, now set to 1.13 - that value was on ECU from which i got new engine - TnT sport evo 2008)
3. Combustion correction map 0 - was 1.00 - never changed it (same on other bike)
4. Combustion correction map 1 - was 1.00 - never changed it (same on other bike)
5. Set MAX TPS (sth more than 200 if i remember well)
6. Set MIN TPS (it's sth about ~40, dont remember well)
7. RESET TPS (which i made few times already)
8. TPS adjustment - (full throtle, enter, then 0 throttle, enter, et voila)

There is other Tab with name "Incjetors correction" (or incjetion correction) but it's black magic for me, and I never touched this.

Of course there is tab with full of information about bike, like actual temperature, throttle position etc - but it's just informations, I cannot change anything in this tab.

By the way, I remind You, that i have accesory full exhaust, with db killers, flaps in airbox wasn't removed (it was undrivable without them, engine was choking as hell), exhaust valve is stucked in full open position - or I have no idea what happend to him, couse it was working when i bought bike, and there was significantly sound diffrence in around ~4k rpms, now as i was looking, it's in open position every time.

I forgot to mention before. Benelli is shooting frome exhaust (like popcorn sound or how is it called) mostly when driving with constant speed, or low throttle and of course with closed throttle while engine breaking. Sounds nice to be honest, but it seems, like it's wasting 2-3l of fuel from every 10l :LOL:
When engine is hot, or warm it's starting from first touch, I mean, I never had any other bike or car that's starting engine that well. When engine is full cold, it's need 3-4, sometimes 5 turnovers - sometimes even BAT info shows on screen. I have new cables from Maniac Motors, and half year battery in perfect condition as I was checking.

I have no clue if any other mods were done here, like airbox sensor moved, and all other stuff I can read here on this forum - but can it be crucial here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Have you actually checked what the CO is? The number on tuneecu doesn’t really mean anything as many factors can effect the CO. I was told set CO to 4% at 3000rpm then set idle CO to 1.5-2.5%. Do it in that order as global co also adjusts idle co.
Thanks for ur fast replay :) Ok, so unfortunetly, i don't have TuneECU, I only have access to TEXA (my friends is a mechanic). Someone said here, that TEXA is powerfull tool, but I only can change this things :
1. CO Idle map 0 (Was 1.00 on old engine, now set to 1.27 - that value was on ECU from which i got new engine - TnT sport evo 2008)
2. CO Idle map 1 (Was 1.00 on old engine, now set to 1.13 - that value was on ECU from which i got new engine - TnT sport evo 2008)
3. Combustion correction map 0 - was 1.00 - never changed it (same on other bike)
4. Combustion correction map 1 - was 1.00 - never changed it (same on other bike)
5. Set MAX TPS (sth more than 200 if i remember well)
6. Set MIN TPS (it's sth about ~40, dont remember well)
7. RESET TPS (which i made few times already)
8. TPS adjustment - (full throtle, enter, then 0 throttle, enter, et voila)

There is other Tab with name "Incjetors correction" (or incjetion correction) but it's black magic for me, and I never touched this.

Of course there is tab with full of information about bike, like actual temperature, throttle position etc - but it's just informations, I cannot change anything in this tab.

By the way, I remind You, that i have accesory full exhaust, with db killers, flaps in airbox wasn't removed (it was undrivable without them, engine was choking as hell), exhaust valve is stucked in full open position - or I have no idea what happend to him, couse it was working when i bought bike, and there was significantly sound diffrence in around ~4k rpms, now as i was looking, it's in open position every time.

I forgot to mention before. Benelli is shooting frome exhaust (like popcorn sound or how is it called) mostly when driving with constant speed, or low throttle and of course with closed throttle while engine breaking. Sounds nice to be honest, but it seems, like it's wasting 2-3l of fuel from every 10l :LOL:
When engine is hot, or warm it's starting from first touch, I mean, I never had any other bike or car that's starting engine that well. When engine is full cold, it's need 3-4, sometimes 5 turnovers - sometimes even BAT info shows on screen. I have new cables from Maniac Motors, and half year battery in perfect condition as I was checking.

I have no clue if any other mods were done here, like airbox sensor moved, and all other stuff I can read here on this forum - but can it be crucial here?
 

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Put it on a CO meter and see what idle and 3000 rpm is then adjust I’m guessing injector correction map(tuneecu is different) until you get 4% co. Then adjust idle co to 1.5-2.5% Or get Tuneecu it is very useful. Do you have any leaks on exhaust? this may cause popping. Combustion correction may be oxygen sensor reading but I’m not sure I have only used Tuneecu.
 
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