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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello
I have just thinking if anybody tryed to remove stepper motor from the bike and adjusted it to work without?
I have finely fixed my tnt 1130 and it’s working now for almost 2 years withot any problems and it is perfect for city ride and racing.
My friend’s tnt have priblem that stepper motor doesn’t move at all. I tryed his step motor on my bike and it works. Cheked his conector and it hase the same voltage on it as my. So i gues it is the ECU problem?
 

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Hello
I have just thinking if anybody tryed to remove stepper motor from the bike and adjusted it to work without?
I have finely fixed my tnt 1130 and it’s working now for almost 2 years withot any problems and it is perfect for city ride and racing.
My friend’s tnt have priblem that stepper motor doesn’t move at all. I tryed his step motor on my bike and it works. Cheked his conector and it hase the same voltage on it as my. So i gues it is the ECU problem?
just curious, you drive without a stepper motor??
 

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I have just thinking if anybody tried to remove stepper motor from the bike and adjusted it to work without? ?
A friend's RS had been running for years with the stepper seized and the butterflies slightly cracked open to keep it running at idle. It idled fast, about 1500, which meant that the ECU couldn't adjust the idle mixture. It didn't have the notorious stalling issue as you de-clutched when coming up to a stop.
I fixed it. It idles much better now, at 1200 rpm as it should, but it now stalls if you let it - which is a skill in itself.
When I get a chance I'll raise the idle speed to 1300 to reduce the chance of stalling.
 

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A friend's RS had been running for years with the stepper seized and the butterflies slightly cracked open to keep it running at idle. It idled fast, about 1500, which meant that the ECU couldn't adjust the idle mixture. It didn't have the notorious stalling issue as you de-clutched when coming up to a stop.
I fixed it. It idles much better now, at 1200 rpm as it should, but it now stalls if you let it - which is a skill in itself.
When I get a chance I'll raise the idle speed to 1300 to reduce the chance of stalling.
It is not problem for 900 RS to work without stepper,it is a big problem for 1130.
Even when you fix butterflies on 1500rpm to idling,it is to much fuel on cold start,not enough clean AIR thru stepper.Mixture is to rich,engine stall all the time,you must hold throttle by hand.
There is other thing,iff engine stalls like that, you must open throttle by hand to start the engine.Iff you start the engine all the time like that,starter clutch suffer and Z25 alsow because ignition is 10 degrees in advance not - 4 or zerro.Iff you misssed just a little with throttle open by hand, starter motor dont have enough power to turn the engine,it is to much ignition in advance.
We test this 12 years ago,starter clutch and Z25 died wery fast.
Wallbro and Sagem are totaly diferent ECU-s,stepper works diferent on those two engines.

Roman ask me this,and I wrote him that is a big problem and I dont want to explain why,I dont have a lot of free time to write novels thru VIBER.

P.S> Errol, I make you that picture we spoke,how do you want to send you ?
 

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.. if engine stalls like that, you must open throttle by hand to start the engine.
I assume that you are holding the throttle just off the stops to prevent the revs from dropping to idle too quickly.
I've learnt to do this over the years. Its not something that came naturally. You have to think about it as you are learning, and I still fail occasionally, but it is the best way to solve the "stalling as you come to a stop" issue.
I rode the RS I talked about earlier half way up the east coast of Australia without it stalling once. Her owner is stalling her on almost every junction. So the system works once you know how to do it.
 

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One of the more helpful mods I did to my RS was to disable the fuel cut on closed throttle, as advised by "colintornado" several years back. It does tend to pop a bit on the overrun now but combined with getting idle fuelling and stepper position correct it almost never stalls now.

colintornado said:
Hi, I just looked on the wiring diagrams etc and the std tre has a permenent ground on p2d2,this means it does not have a signal as to if it is in gear or not. The RS which has different wiring has a ground on p2d2 when in neutral (as you say) and this ground is removed when in gear.
With the standard wiring (on my bike) I found that when on shut throttle it seemed like fuel was cut off until it decreased to 2800 rpm where you felt it cut back in. I cut the wire and put the ecu side to earth so the ecu sees it as in neutral all the time,this stopped the slight surge at 2800rpm that annoyed me. The downside of this is some popping at closed throttle although i did play with tuneboy and got rid of it by richening a bit.
I cut the p2d2 wire and brought both ends out of the loom with bullet connectors on them and sliced another short wire into one of the ECU ground connections also with a bullet connector which means I can easily enable or disable fuel cut.
 

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Very interesting Mike. I didn't know that, but the wiring diagrams for standard and RS bear it out.
This would mean that only selecting neutral at a standstill would have the same effect. Easier said than done with a cable clutch, but a doddle with a well set up hydraulic clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok now i have tryed for few days and bike starts and run very good without stepper motor. I have just opend 2 turns out the air screws and removed hoses from stepper motor and closed holes and needed to adjust CO again. I left everything else as it is. And bike runs like before when stepper motor was working
 
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