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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, to all, just had time to fit in yet another question,

The question is to strip, check and change the clutch basket or not.
2003 TRE with 4000 on clock, what do you reckon yeh or neh ??

If its a yeh, should I get a basket anyway, or strip and check first, any ideas how much a basket is and whats the part no ?????
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Rob,
I did get the history and its not had the mod, so i reckon Ill strip it out and check it in then first instance, other jobs can wait for a bit.
Do you know how much the basket is, I am more than capable of doing the job myself , I just need the part, (assuming its duff of course,were they all dodgy ??)
thanks for you advise, regrads Steve.
 

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Do you know how much the basket is, I am more than capable of doing the job myself , I just need the part, (assuming its duff of course,were they all dodgy ??)
thanks for you advise, regards Steve.
Hey Steve, if your clutch hasn't got an 8 mm (or larger) intermediate gear, you definitely need to upgrade it. If you can't get it under warranty, go to Surflex, and get the latest, 2007 model. If you get it from Benelli, they may just give you a 2003 model. Colin had trouble with the 2003 springs being shorter than they should have been, giving it a 10 mm travel before they started work, and lost soul had the springs wear straight through the aluminium plate that holds everything in place.
Mine's a 2003, with the 8 mm gear, but is still fine after 60,000 km - except for the needle roller bearings, which no longer roll. I'm waiting for replacements which should turn up tomorrow.
Surflex contact is Ms.Caterina Rimoldi <[email protected]>

While you've got it apart, replace the alternator shaft & Z25 gear as well, with the latest available for the 1130. It's only € 101. TNT Sport part number R300000081000. You'll also need the Belville washer R310032007000. Pick up an 8.8 (or better) M10x1.25 x 25 from your local bolt shop. The one I got from Benelli, had it it's head shortened - losing the rating stamp and weakening it. There's room for a standard head bolt, & that's what I've installed.

If you do that, check the alternator drive rubbers as well. They are prone to wearing out and depositing crumbs in the sump.
 

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Hi stevet457, let me tell you the clutch story as far as i can understand,:doh:

Apparently the early tre(ie not RS or le) had a clutch with the middle gear that connects to the alternator and starter shaft that was 6mm wide. there are reports and I have seen pics of this gear failing and breaking apart. the uprated clutch was supplied with a middle gear of 8mm diameter. This was not an official recall, but benelli did replace under warrenty if fault appeared at service.

I own an RS, the clutch also has problems in that the shock absorber springs are not held and eventually shake and wear the drum and cause servere vibration etc..(THIS MAY HAPPEN TO TRE CLUTCHES ALSO ?)

When my clutch failed (at about 5000 miles),ie the vibration became obvious and it caused the alternator dog securing bolt retaining lock washer to shear,it was changed under warrenty.(the basket)
I contacted the maker of the clutches and was told that the clutch had been modified several times,but they would gaurantee my new 07 clutch.
look at my gallery pics to see my clutch.

Some people have the early clutch with no problems ie Errol with high mileage
I`m not sure if he had a update with 8 mm middle gear?

The fact is Benelli have changed the clutch several times and It is unlikely anyone will ever fully understand what was going on !

If you are mechanically able have a look, it is not difficult and inspect carefully. ( my clutch height was wrong and the plates over threw the drum have a look in my pics in gallery !)

If I go on anymore I will be back in the longest post compatition so BYE....
COLIN...

ps I have took so long to reply that errol has beat me to it ! please read with respect to Errols comments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Errol,
Thanks for all that info, i will be getting into to it very soona dn will check it out and let you know how it looks, can I assume that its the alt bolt that needs replacing and is also inside the clutch housing not the alt side.
I will contact surflex to get a price and post it on forum.
Have to finish an engine rebuild on a 1944 BSA M21 for a friend of mine first to free up my ramp, cheers Steve.
(P.S. its raining and cold in UK today)
 

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Hi again , the alternator shft and gear (z25) bolt(is behind the alternator) it was originally secured with locktite. then a lock washer was used . then a lockwasher with also locktite . the latest method is a belville washer. Personally my opinion is there is virtually no load on the bolt and any of these methods should be adequate, it is just holding the alternator drive dog on the shaft. The reason it comes undone is another issue, (ie vibration from faulty clutch) But that is my opinion, so make your own mind up.
As Errol says I see no reason for shortening the bolt head either. in fact in reality shortening it in the case of it loosening would result in the shaft and gear being able to move further into the rear of the clutch!!ouch!
Any way have a look and see what you find...
 
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