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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an LE Benelli Tornado TRE. It has the manual clutch. Will the clutch upgrade for the other TREs fit/work on my bike?

And where can I get/buy one. Does anyone have one FS?

thanks

Im in the USA.
 

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I have an LE Benelli Tornado TRE. It has the manual clutch. Will the clutch upgrade for the other TREs fit/work on my bike?

And where can I get/buy one. Does anyone have one FS?

thanks

Im in the USA.

I'm not being funny here, but don't most bikes have a 'manual' clutch? I haven't heard of an automatic Tornado!

Do you mean cable clutch? As I was made aware of a 'mod' to make the clutch into a hydraulic one whilst I was in Germany by the dealers there - I just couldn't justify the expence at the time (and now I am back in the UK, so have missed the chance to get it done!)

Andy:doh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here in the states we use the terms manual clutch and cable clutch interchangably.

The Benelli(s) come with a manual/cable clutch. Not hydraulic.

There are 2 different upgrades I know of. One is a hydraulic conversion, and the other is a clutch actuator arm upgrade. Both of these are to inprove the "find neutral" problem

Im very familiar wih the hydraulic conversion.

What Im looking for is the clutch actuation (cam) upgrade that allows a better clutch disengagement while retaining the manual/cable system.

Does anyone know where I can get/buy this manual/cable clutch upgrade?

Im in the USA.

thanks
 

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Clutch Actuator Arm

The actuator arm should be free from Benelli. It was one of the recalls, as far as I can tell. It happened before I bought mine at the end of 2004. Mine was replaced before I took delivery.

The other thing that has changed to help in finding neutral is the gear lever. There used to be 2 attachment points, one longer than the other, and mine was delivered with the longer one in use. The new levers only have the shorter one. Using the shorter arm increases the toe movement, making it easier to select neutral.

(Of course, I'm describing the Tornado, not the LE, so there may be differences)
 

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I have both LE stock and one LE based (actually LE was based on that) with hydraulic conversion. I feel no difference on street use - not noticeable by my left arm, for harder use is better to use the cable one as the dry clutch you will find rather difficult to slip with hydraulic conversion.

It is my strong belief your bike does not need anything extra to run good, as long the original parts & components are OK.
 

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Second that

I agree, it runs champ on stock componentry. I have the LE and the Biposto and the LE I have never had a problem with neutral. The biposto had the seconadary piece installed and that seems to have solved the problem.
john
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys.

Then it seems that the LE is a pretty sound bike. It seems free of the clutch problems of the early standard Tornado TREs. No clutch basket trouble, and no neutral finding problem....

My guess is that the clutch system was designed/developed with the LEs dry clutch, and so it works on that well. Maybe when they went to the wet clutch on the production bikes they kept the clutch disengagement system the same as on the dry clutched bikes, and it wasnot as good on the bike, and thus the hard to find neutral problem. Of course the clutch baskets on the dry and wet clutches are different, an the dry clutches are/were build up to spec, and the drive gear on the early wet clutches was a weak point.

thanks again.

:)
 

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Hi
I have 2004 tornado tre
The clutch was good until I Changed engine oil at 8000km
This is not my first oil change and I used the same oil before
I don’t know what’s the problem? Is it the clutch or the oil? I am using MOTOREX racing oil which is designed for oil bath clutch.
Thanks
 
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