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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
It is a can of worms , sorry
Only one fixing bolt, means the thing can twist and catch on the piston, You might be able to put both fixings in and tighten ,and it could work perfectly.
Where are you , ? I have a spare stepper you could try, it might just fire up and run perfectly.
They are so touchy, one tiny thing wrong , and it is a bag of shit. Get it right and they are really a fine bit of kit.
As you can see, there are some good guys out there , and you can fix it , do not despair .
Do not go down roads that mislead you , follow , what went wrong , what you have done , the results and do one step at a time till you find the solution

Hang in there , you have a lot of support .
I'm in gillingham Kent.
 

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I'm in gillingham Kent.
Well , clean your existing one up, put it back together with two tight fixing screws and check the operation. if it seems to work, try it.
If the bike wont start , send me an address and will send you a stepper to try . if it is not that send it back.
I still think , you are chasing shadows, the bike ran fine before you took it apart ?
If so it is something that happened in the process of trying to fix it .
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Well , clean your existing one up, put it back together with two tight fixing screws and check the operation. if it seems to work, try it.
If the bike wont start , send me an address and will send you a stepper to try . if it is not that send it back.
I still think , you are chasing shadows, the bike ran fine before you took it apart ?
If so it is something that happened in the process of trying to fix it .
OK very good of you.
 

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The stepper moves up and down on grooves if you can screw the top back down its more then likely had its day.
I went the way of Rick and put a triumph one in.
Two pluses with a triumph one is they work and they are a hell of a lot cheaper they the Benelli one.
 

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Is that a new spelling of F----d or an Oz variation.
Actually, if truth be told, Cactus, is short for "Cactus Fuctus", possibly being a reference to the prickly pear cactus that was introduced in 1788 by the First Fleet, which quickly took over the joint and was eventually eliminated by introducing a caterpillar/moth 130 years later. The Cane Toad introduction wasn't quite so spectacularly successful.
 

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if you look at the upper part of the shaft there are 2 grooves and in the plastic motor housing should be 2 matching plastic tabs. So the shaft should spin down until the larger parts of the shaft hits the tabs, then you shouldn’t get it any further, if it screws past that then the housing is U/S. you need to run the motor to get it fully in which isn’t easy as it is a stepper motor, so you would need a stepper motor driver which are about £7 on eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
if you look at the upper part of the shaft there are 2 grooves and in the plastic motor housing should be 2 matching plastic tabs. So the shaft should spin down until the larger parts of the shaft hits the tabs, then you shouldn’t get it any further, if it screws past that then the housing is U/S. you need to run the motor to get it fully in which isn’t easy as it is a stepper motor, so you would need a stepper motor driver which are about £7 on eBay
It's screwing in up to the tabs. I've taken it apart, cleaned it, the piston slides OK in its tube. I even managed to secure both bolts, a bit like defusing a bomb.
This is where my DIY stops, where does the driver fit, i thought the engine had to be started for the stepper piston to pull down.
 

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The problem is if you run the stepper while connected to the bike but out of its housing, it winds the piston out, but only winds it back a tiny amount. So getting it back in enough to refit in the housing is tricky. Loosely screw the piston back in then If you have a clamp to stop the piston winding out (but don’t put any pressure on the piston), turn the bike on the stepper will try to move out but the clamp will stop it, it should then wind back in slightly. Keep doing this (ignition on wait then off) taking up the clearance each time using the clamp. You should get it back in enough to put it back in the housing
 

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The problem is if you run the stepper while connected to the bike but out of its housing, it winds the piston out, but only winds it back a tiny amount.
Another way of making it wind back in is to make up a cable that swaps the connections to ONE of the stepper coils. With that in place, when you turn the ignition on the ECU will "think" its winding the piston in, but it will actually be moving it in the opposite direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
let me get this straight, ith stepper all reassembled and connected , at rest key off all off the piston should rest at the top of it's stroke.If you turn ign on and run button (but not hit the starter) the piston should recoil a little to let through some air ? when you turn off it will go back to rest at the top of it's stroke
 

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let me get this straight, ith stepper all reassembled and connected , at rest key off all off the piston should rest at the top of it's stroke.If you turn ign on and run button (but not hit the starter) the piston should recoil a little to let through some air ? when you turn off it will go back to rest at the top of it's stroke
Aye that’s just about right .. however my stepper motor hardly moves at all when key is on or off . Just feels like it vibrates up at the top .
I’ve never really bothered to check it after it fires up . Starts off about 2k revs then dies down to about 1350 revs when warm . It only bypasses a little air into the chamber at startup. After that when your on the gas rolling down the road it’s irrelevant mostly what it’s doing. Although I think it can help to lean or richen the mixture at pace .
 

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The stepper should be slightly open when running but this depends on manual throttle position, tps setting, tickover set in ecu and throttle bypass(so each bike will be slightly different) so when ignition is turned off it should stay were it was during running. On ignition on it closes (and keeps trying to close for a few seconds) and then opens to it normal running position. During running it adjusts the tickover by allowing more or less air into the engine. As Rick says above tickover it doesn’t have any effect.
 

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The stepper should be slightly open when running but this depends on manual throttle position, tps setting, tickover set in ecu and throttle bypass(so each bike will be slightly different) so when ignition is turned off it should stay were it was during running. On ignition on it closes (and keeps trying to close for a few seconds) and then opens to it normal running position. During running it adjusts the tickover by allowing more or less air into the engine. As Rick says above tickover it doesn’t have any effect.
Yes, I can throw a little more light on the variables, having had experience with both 900 sagem controlled steppers and 1130 Walbro single map systems and two stage maps. They all react differently. I thought they all would be the same , but the Sagem controlled units are more noticeable in the step stages of the piston to the Walbro units . That is why I said rest your finger on the piston and feel it vibrate, the 900,s show a more pronounced stepper piston movement .
I think Rick found a suitable stepper on Amazon for under £30 that functions perfectly, although they do operate slightly differently, depending on the ECU control. Triumphs use Sagem not Walbro hence the white piston stepper is more widely used . The green piston stepper is a Sonzeboz unit made in Switzerland. The White piston stepper is used in a variety of European cars as well Citroen /Peugeot and Fiat and Alfa. I think , there are Chinese copies about as well.
 
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