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Has nyone out there in Benellu land found a way to adjust the engage/disengage threshold on the dry clutch?
On my 1130 ive had a couple of scary moments when the clutch is engaged on a downshift entering a bend and wont give me a gear again untill 1/2 way round.
 

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You are not alone!

Blimey, I was only just thinking of posting something similar.
Here is the content of my query on another thread: -
Engine braking is a concept missing from my 1130, I presume it is the slipper clutch, not to sure if I like it, I am used to a lot of engine braking having had a v-twin before the Nelli.
I was going to start a post asking if anyone else had any opinions on the slipper clutch.
When changing up the engine revs can drop to tickover levels so you cant rely on any engine braking, not a good thing when you are braking hard for a roundabout/corner etc.
Is there a way of controling the amount of 'slip' on the clutch slipper system?
Dont know if I will ever get used to the 'feel' of the clutch.


I havent had problems engaging gears but the lack of engine braking does catch you out, it does feel like you are in neutral sometimes and the braking/drive only seems to come back when you blip/increase the revs which can give the bike a jerking sensation.
 

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Flicking through the Workshop Manual for the RS, I cant find anything (unless I missed it) about adjusting "slip point".

The blurb on the RS says the following (from Benelli web site for 2004 RS):

THE ENGINE
The Tornado Novecento Tre RS has the well-known 900 cc three cylinder in-line engine, even more powerful and high performance in this version. The delivery system and runners have changed, to allow improved power and torque. All of this gives excellent performance and more regular, gradual power output. The profile of the cams and the intake runners has changed too, making engine operation smoother and more powerful. Another important change has been made to the injection control unit. The software has been optimised for an improved ride on the track. Constant performance is guaranteed by the addition of the oil cooling system which uses a radiator. The slipper clutch remains, but the Tornado RS allows adjustment of the slipper starting point according to each rider's driving style. Obviously, the exclusive flexible coupling system is still present, not only guaranteeing regular operation, but also making the handlebar control more comfortable. There is a fully removable six speed gearbox which, like on all competition bikes, allows rapid gear substitution without taking the engine to bits. The clutch is improved with clutch plates of different composition, providing more constant performance, particularly on the track.


I was expecting a relatively easy way of adjusting the slipper starting point :confused:
 

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It is easy to alter the slipper for more or less slip,but it is done by altering the stack height, so you do need to remove the cover and pressure plate to access the plates. Benelli have used several different plate types and widths,but in my case on RS I found originally it had little slipper action. I found an "extra" 2mm steel plate beside another.I tried with this 2mm removed and it then had a lot of slipper action.I now have made the stack height 0.4mm less and this suits me. From what I have found then about 1.5mm is all it takes to cover a lot to virtially no slipper action. I have found similar reports when I googled the subject. If you do have a go at altering be aware that my original set up overthrew the outer steel plate too far off the hub and damaged the last 2 frictions (see pics in my album) so check where the plates throw with clutch pulled in.
I adapted my clutch by leaving the 2mm steel extra plate out and fitting some wider friction plates.
Put simply,if you have virtually no slip shorten the stack height in small stages up to about 1.5 mm.
Also as the stack height is shortened it may require shimming of the springs,or stiffer springs.Mine was noticably lighter with 2mm out and it had no slip on accelaration.
The dry clutch engines should be similar procedure, if it is less slip required then adding small amounts to stack height by thicker plates should be the way to get less slip.
Anyway I am sure I have said all this before !:doh:
colin.
 

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Thks Colin... by the sounds of it you could make same changes to std Tre to adjust slipper point?? so why do they state that for the RS "The slipper clutch remains, but the Tornado RS allows adjustment of the slipper starting point according to each rider's driving style" :confused:

Still... am getting used to Benelli docs stating different things in different publications... just look at tyre sizes and pressures.. every doc / guide / manual says something different, the RS brochures / user guide all have Double Bubble when it wasnt std at all... :rolleyes: :rolling:
 

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Yes the standard tre is basically the same,just different type and width of plates (possibly) I was expecting something like a little screw you wiggled to adjust slip point and "bobs your uncle",but it seems it is another of Benellis untruths !
I got my plates from motorcycleproducts.co.uk, i bought a couple of different types,cant remember all details now,and I wiped my comp,but they did send me some data sheets with sizes etc from which I picked suitable plates.
 

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i've never felt my rs clutch slip once!!!!!! infact i've had the rear wheel lock up on me 3 times now & the last time it made me go onto the wrong side of the road proper brown pant moment :eek: :eek: :eek:
 

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Wow, you all must be psychic. I was about to search and/or post on the same topic. My slipper clutch works but I would like more slip. The aftermarket slipper on my race bike I could bang multiple downshifts without blipping the throttle and it would slip nice and smooth. W/ my Tre it has caught me out a few times at the track I get some rear wheel hop if I don't get the throttle right. I would prefer zero engine braking if I could still get solid acceleration.

Thanks for the notes Colin - guess I'll get up the nerve to go tinkering.
 

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Put simply,if you have virtually no slip shorten the stack height in small stages up to about 1.5 mm.
Also as the stack height is shortened it may require shimming of the springs,or stiffer springs.Mine was noticably lighter with 2mm out and it had no slip on accelaration.
colin.
Thanks for that colin, very interesting. I dont think my clutch has slipped once since i've had the bike....but that said im not usually very rough with the gears.
Must check it out tomorrow...a lighter clutch would certainly be a good thing!
 

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Hmm.... my slipper clutch is working fine for 7500km now. It slips in the moments when i want it to do so. Never failed. Happy with it :)
 

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Thanks for the explanation Colin, that has answered a lot of questions about my clutch, I will live with the slip the way it is until next oil change time and try adjucting the stack height then. I have had exactly the same issues that Ade has had in that I've had a few rear end lock ups on downshifts - I guess I have no slip from the clucth at the moment. cheers mate
Fraser
 

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Interestingly the parts list for the standard TRE shows that in addition to the clutch plate kit, you can get a pair of internal teeth discs, part no R180200145000 DISC SET.

Also an extract from the workshop manual,


Insert the external teeth (A) and internal teeth (B) conductor
disks in alternate sequence.
NOTE:
Oil the disks with engine oil one by one before
inserting them into the clutch drum.
Calibrate the anti-hopping device of the final internal
teeth disk outside the conductor engine (2). If
changed, it must have the same initial thickness.
Odd really as this appears to be same as the RS, and they used the adjustability as an extra selling point.

It seems relatively easy to do, just takes a bit of trial and error to get it the way you like, Steve
 

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Surflex sell a kit

comes with plates, to adjust the stack height and i suspect the couple of plates are different thicknesses, thinner for more slip, thicker for less. I saw it on their website.
 

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Maybe this can help explain ? faq ?


;)
That is an interesting link, Rob. It explains how some bikes with slipper clutches can be bump started, and some not. They tended to use a ramp angle of 45 degrees on large race bikes, which allows bump starting, whereas lower powered bikes such as 600's can have angles of 37 -32 degrees, which mean they slip easier, but won't allow a bump start. Does anybody know the ramp angle on Benelli's?

BTW, did you notice that it was written by Neil Spalding? He is the technical guru on Eurosport MotoGP coverage.:bow:
Cheers
Ian
 
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