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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having a pretty serious issue with my Benelli.

Every couple of days, it dies when shifting from 2nd to first while slowing for a turn. I have always noticed it and just hit the starter button and kept going. Yesterday, I was getting off the highway and coming to a stoplight. I was braking and listening to music. I shifted from third to second, the engine died and I didn't notice it because of the music. As I let off of the clutch, the rear tire locked and went way squirrely on me. I kept it locked so it didn't pitch me and used the front brake to skid to a stop. It scared the crap out of me.

I'm usually at around 4K RPMs when downshifting and do a pretty good job of matching revs. Sometimes I think it dies when I pull the clutch, even before I shift, but I can't be certain.

Anyone else have this issue? Any ideas? I definitely need some help on this.

-BULL
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
engine stopping

I've had it happen to me a few different Tornado's, it has always been under 3000 rpm with the clutch in; the factory don't know exactly what it is; I have a few idea's. First things I'd do is..... re-download the 6033 map into the ECU, get the idle CO set to 2.0% and open the air stepper (with the Axone tool) to raise the idle to 1,400rpm.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: engine stopping

If I remember correctly, Bull, your Tre is a brand new Tre bought from Arthaworks right? I'd suggest you talk to Joel or Elias first. The only person that I know of that had worked on the Tre here in the US is Ken Zeller at Evoluzione (evoluzione.com) You should have the latest map already (6033.) Ken could help you with Tuneboy/ECU/Axone related stuff...
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Engine Stopping

You're right about my Tre Toby.

I've been working with Joel and he's been talking to Ken. They suggested going the Tuneboy route, but I'd like to know it's going to fix the issue before I drop the dough.

How many items do I need to adjust all of the stuff Johnny O is referring to? Being that I'm in Arkansas (read BFE). Do most dealerships have an Axone and/or Tuneboy or am I going to have to drive to a tuner shop in a larger city? I'm a long way from Arthaworks and Hollywood.

-BULL
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ECU remapping

No one can adjust your ECU with the Tuneboy program unless you pay Tuneboy but you can just send your ECU to anyone that has an Axone (with Benelli memory card) and a Tornado, LE or RS and they can download a new map in for you, idle CO has to be adjusted on the bike though.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Arkansas

I did a 4 hour endurance race (finished 3rd) at Hallet in Oklahoma on an R1 with a guy from Arkansas, his name is Cory West, he is a top AMA Superbike racer now.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not what you want to hear, but I had my first Tornado replaced under warantee because of this. Importer had it for a couple of months over winter, swapping parts on and off a demo bike, but couldn't fix the problem. Eventually I negotiated a replacement (new) bike.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Arkansas

Johnny O,

Hallet is the track everyone around here goes to. I don't have a trailer, so I haven't had the chance to make it over there. My riding buddies and I talk about it all the time though. I hear it looks like crap, but rides well. What was your impression?

I do know who Corey is, but I've never met him. He's apparently a pretty good rider, but took a bad spill a while back. He had his leather jacket tied around his waist and decided to race some guy on the interstate. At around 150mph, the sleeve of the jacket got caught in the rear tire and locked up the chain sending him to the ground. He obviously spent some time in the hospital, but is back on the track now.

Lesson: it's always better to wear the jacket.

Thanks for the tips.

-BULL
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Arkansas

Mine did it too when I first got it. For some reason its pretty much stopped now. Either ways I was told my a mechanic from Red Dog here in Essex/Kent, UK that it had something to do with the screws in the airbox. He said to cure it you had to turn all 3 screws fully in the 1.5 to 2 turns out (All the same). Thats meant to cure it. The ECU thing doesnt sound a bad idea either??? Although he never mentioned that only that it must have the latest 6033 map (assuming yours is a std model). Mine ticks over at around 1200 i think and would stall at around 2-4k. You cant even bump the buggers cos of the slipper clutch lol

Dean

ps if you need the number to get some good info etc off him post me an email
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
air screws

He's talking about the throttle air by-pass screws, I agree, I set all three at one & half turns out, this helps with off-idle lurch also (giving some progression to a suddenly opening throttle butterfly) but the butterflys have to be synchronized at the same time though.

As a quick test to see if my butterfly synchronization needs doing, I look at the exhaust headers when running at night, they should all glow with the same amount of redness (in neutral), if you have one that glows more red, you'll generally find that the butterfly for that cylinder is open a touch more than the others making that cylinder a little leaner, hence hotter.

I also remove the throttle stop screws for cylinders 1 & 3; cylinders 1 & 3 are linked to number 2, so they are not needed, I don't like the possibility of them confusing any tuning issues.

PS: I adjusted the air by-pass on my RS but it didn't cure the spit-back/cutting out problem... go figure?
 
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