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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all - I have a new to me 2009 1130 TNT (24000kms) which is causing some issues and I really need your help!!

1 - Engine light is always on
2 - Bike will sometimes start up slowly (600, 800, 1000 and then 1200rpm)
3 - When approaching light, 1st gear, clutch in, bike will slowly die (abrupt trottle = shuts off....have to slowly/gingerly apply throttle to keep it at 2000rpm)
4 - Bike runs fine when driving around
5 - When flooring it - bike will immediately turn off after hitting 6k (its like someone hit the breaks)...can start the bike up again using start switch.

Note: Same behavior on both maps - button out/button in
Note: I have adjusted the idle to be high >1500 but issue (3) still happens.

Note: If I snap the throttle a few times it will also die
Note: I just put in a new battery + cable upgrades

Very perplexing behavior....it sounds like its running rich but doesn't smell THAT bad

FYI - I have a 2007 1130 cafe racer which does not have the above issues (smell is similar)
 

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1 - Engine light is always on
I'd use a diagnosis tool (i.e. TuneECU with OBD cable) to see the reason for it being permanently on.
It might reveal the root cause for your other issues too.

issue 3 might be fixed by Throttle Body Synchronisation described here.
The description for it is similar to Engine Dies
Also a defective TPS could be involved but is fixed cheaply using a BMW part
 

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As Micheal said find out what error is first. Tuneecu is easy to use and quite cheap. If you have an old laptop with a 9way serial port. You can even make your own cable and old windows version was free. Or buy a cable from Lonelec or stingerwolf on here used to make them. Android app version was about £12.
 

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ok sounds like its a combination of things....
1 dirty stepper motor.

2 possibly a kinked fuel pipe this is my best guess of your issue it will show engine code due to bad fuel pressure. (have you taken the tank off before this problem happened ?)

3 tps sensor could need resetting but wont show an engine code .

4 cutting off at high revs could be the side stand switch due to vibes at higher revs .. Yes its happened to me and was hard to diagnose but fixed easily either by bypassing it or open back of switch and stretch the spring for stronger contact.

5 poor mapping can also be a factor of poor running a low rpm but wont turn the bike off at higher revs or throw a code up .

hope some of this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for everyone's help, Looks like I will need to get a diagnostic software+cable to make progress.

Note - this bike was used as a track bike - it was dirty and abused and I want to rescue it!....I had to connect up all the lights again and adjust the clutch from the engine to get the gears to work (still not perfect, neutral impossible with bike switched on....even when trying to slip in when coming to a stop)
 

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..... adjust the clutch from the engine to get the gears to work (still not perfect, neutral impossible with bike switched on....even when trying to slip in when coming to a stop)
HI finding neutral while engine is running is like trying to put a square peg in a round hole ..lol.
it is possible sometimes but i used to find it less stressful hitting the kill switch first ..haha.
there is a mod that can be done to help but you need to remove the gearbox and gently file the end of the neutral switch pin . i did that on gearbox number two. :rolleyes:
 

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If there is any non-software related tests I can do I will appreciate the direction in the mean-time.
you could remove the tank and airbox to check fuel pipe is not kinked if it has any signs of that replace it with good quality petrol injection rubber line. also you could clean air filter and stepper motor with carb cleaner while you there.
 

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If there is any non-software related tests I can do I will appreciate the direction in the mean-time.
as written "issue 3 might be fixed by Throttle Body Synchronisation described here."
After that's successfully done (meaning the major issue is gone) as likely the last step (& in case original fuel injectors are still used) I`d replace them with matched new Bosch injectors. It made a big improvement for my Tornado using Benelli Tornado - upgrade to Bosch - EV14 (For reasoning see Tills - Warum)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
you could remove the tank and airbox to check fuel pipe is not kinked if it has any signs of that replace it with good quality petrol injection rubber line. also you could clean air filter and stepper motor with carb cleaner while you there.
Ok will aim to do this next. Will report back.

as written "issue 3 might be fixed by Throttle Body Synchronisation described here."
After that's successfully done (meaning the major issue is gone) as likely the last step (& in case original fuel injectors are still used) I`d replace them with matched new Bosch injectors. It made a big improvement for my Tornado using Benelli Tornado - upgrade to Bosch - EV14 (For reasoning see Tills - Warum)
@michael.w.holzer thanks for this - I read the write up and man it seems like a job and a half. I might just have to suck it up and do it though!
 
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