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I took the valve out completly from my CR and blanked the pivot holes with 8mm stainless dome head bolts. I had also removed the airbox flaps. It made a big difference, it would rev much more freely and hit the red line in top gear quicker. I took it out as the exhaust gas flow will close it because the spring is not strong enough, just rev your bike hard and watch the valve, opens at 3000rpm then closes again due to exhaust flow :doh: also when removed you can disconnect the solinoid and reduce the load on the battery as it is powered upto 3000rpm
 

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I'm firing on three
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as Tim say's wire it open or take it out... it's not an Exup valve (like Yamaha’s) it is there to help get the engine past current emission laws.......I have used a piece of stainless welding rod to wire it open and disconnected the solenoid.
terry
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
how to remove it?

good, i`ll do it,, but will i not loose a lot of torque?

the bike cannot rev more, as there is a rev limiter,standard feature, so does it increase the acceleration or the horse power?

and most of all,, do i have to remap it..after having doing so,, overwise, if someone as a map,, for pcIII,, with dna filter and titanium exaust pipe with valve removed, air flap remove,, and airbox mod done,, that would be cool if i remove that valve
 

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CR,
to summarise…… the exhaust valve is for emissions and needs to be open at all times allowing the best from your engine so wire it open without any concerns.
The standard air box is restricted again for emissions so cut the bottom 1/3rd off getting rid of the flaps and fit a DNA or K&N to let as much air in as possible again to get the best from your engine.
Now remapping….that’s debatable some bikes seem to need it to run but the vast majority of them don’t.
My 07sport has the airbox and exhaust valve mod a DNA filter and a Devil can fitted and runs sweet as without any pcIII or tune boy fitted.
However I must confess I am going to fit a tuneboy soon, just to try and squeeze a few more ponies from my engine,
I have always been a power commander man (fitted them to my last 9 bikes), but now prefer the way the tune boy appears to integrate with the existing ECU and the feed back given through the tuneboy software.
At present I am testing a little gizmo that alleges improving fuel economy and performance as well as prolonging the life of your battery, :clap: (fitted 1 to my car and 1 to the TNT).
Keep you posted on the results.
Terry
 

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Exactley as vtxbrit states, for emmisions only, I personally would take it out, as even wired open there is still a big chunk of steel restricting the exhaust flow :mad:



Heres one I removed earlier ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
air box

can u show me the airbox mod, if anyone as pictures,, i already did it.. cut off the piece between the two flaps,, increased a bit the corners to the largest rectangular intake as possible,, but i left the piece at the bottom, that tends to collect the air from the front of the bike..

is that correct........ basically my bike only needs the exaust valve to be removed.. that`s all..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
wooo

nice,, but u got rid of the force draft entry ,, basically,, the air pressure from the speed of the bike doesn`t do anything anymore,, is that good,, ?
 

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CR,
Unless you have accurately positioned ducts running from the front of the bike directly into the filter box and you are doing about 170mph the ram effect is all a load of hype (nice word for bo***cks) with a free flowing air filter and no restrictions (i.e. flaps) the Benelli will produce max output with the airbox modified as picture.
:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
interresting

ok,, sound`s ok,, but if i do this, i will definitely need to remap the bike, unless someone can send me a power commander map for those modification
,, aa the amount of air in the airbox will be much larger
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
took the valve out

hi guys,, i removed the exaust valve today, i remove the soleinoid too,, took the cables out, blank the holes with screw 3/8" dome head.. the bike sound different, a bit louder at low revs,, and high rev.

the difference in performance is hard to say, but seem to be more powerful,, again,, need to confirm that,,,,,i feel an increase in torque... anyway... not a bad thing to do.

might be possible to install the oxygen sensor using those holes.

thanks guys.
 

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hi guys,, i removed the exaust valve today, i
might be possible to install the oxygen sensor using those holes.

thanks guys.
I don't think that would be wise.
The sensor needs to be off the horizontal or facing up. This is so that moisture does not collect in it when the bike is off.
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
true

yes,, i remember those... i`m just waiting for some money to come,, and i`ll get that inovate O2 sensor,, seem to be a good thing to have
 

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Caferacer the LC1 won't really help you at all unless you get the tuneboy to capture the data, then you manipulate the map and download. We don't need a gauge to tell us that our bikes are running rich - we know that. What we need is an O2 sensor to read the data, then something to capture it, then you analyze, remap,and then something to down load it to the ECU. ie Tune boy.
Bottom line is The lc1 is virtually useless on its own
These are my thoughts. By the way I have an lc1. No tune boy yet.

Paul
 

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Bottom line is The lc1 is virtually useless on its ownl
The LM-1 can take data, but it's analogue only, so you need to convert the rpm pulse train to an analogue voltage (for it digitise). You also need to pick of the TPS voltage. If it could "talk" to the ECU, it could get them from there, as the Tuneboy does, but it can't.

Without rpm & tps interfaces to the LM-1, you're stuck with tuneboy & a laptop - and strapping my $2,000 laptop to the bike gives me a feeling of impending doom!
 

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- and strapping my $2,000 laptop to the bike gives me a feeling of impending doom!
I forgot how expensive computers and laptops are in other places around the world. $400.00 for mine running XP and the brick (DELL) is running 98.
 

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Hey Paul, I've got a "$400" laptop as well, but the battery is well & truly stuffed. I'd need to come up with a supply off the bike to make it work ---- which would probably be a whole lot easier than adding interface ccts to the LM-1:doh:
 
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