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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I 3D printed the "special tool" that was missing for my bike. I used Engenia's drawings, and ended up with this (I can attach the STL file in another thread somewhere if people want):

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It's a nice snug fit, but I don't see how it is meant to release the end of the hose?

Here is what the underside of the tank looks like:

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The centre sleeve of the attachment has 2 slots on each side where the inner joint can be seen, I assume this is where one is meant to release the connection. I just don't see how the tool is meant to help, unless something is different with my connector.

FYI, this is a 2012 TreK Amazonas.

What do I need to do to get this off?
 

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I 3D printed the "special tool" that was missing for my bike. I used Engenia's drawings, and ended up with this (I can attach the STL file in another thread somewhere if people want):

View attachment 39082

It's a nice snug fit, but I don't see how it is meant to release the end of the hose?

Here is what the underside of the tank looks like:

View attachment 39083

The centre sleeve of the attachment has 2 slots on each side where the inner joint can be seen, I assume this is where one is meant to release the connection. I just don't see how the tool is meant to help, unless something is different with my connector.

FYI, this is a 2012 TreK Amazonas.

What do I need to do to get this off?
From your picture of the underside of the tank, it looks like the two protruding tags, that were in the slots you can see , have been broken off. So, your newly made tool is useless. Your best bet now is to buy an inline high pressure connector and cut the fuel pipe. Drain the tank first and with another pair of hands to hold the tank so you can cut the pipe cleanly , be careful where you cut it . You only get one chance at this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
From your picture of the underside of the tank, it looks like the two protruding tags, that were in the slots you can see , have been broken off. So, your newly made tool is useless. Your best bet now is to buy an inline high pressure connector and cut the fuel pipe. Drain the tank first and with another pair of hands to hold the tank so you can cut the pipe cleanly , be careful where you cut it . You only get one chance at this.
That was my fear. Will have a look for a suitable connector.

Thank you
 

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If you can get someone to hold the tank high enough to get to the fuel rail you can undo the fuel banjo bolt off the fuel rail. You can then lift the tank and fuel pipe clear of the bike to carry out the surgery. I expect the previous owner used a pliers to press in the clips and broke them, ( common occurrence with that tool missing). Absolutely awful design and idea, many owners have done the mod. you have to remove the tank to work on the bike , why make the removal of the tank so awkward.
 

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i had this trouble when i first got my bike , it caused me hell. I had to get another pump(Thanks Rick) and i've got the hang of unclipping the pipe now although i avoid it if i can, you can gently spin the tank around and strap it onto your seat frame for most work ,but please be careful not to snag or stretch anything and put a towel under it Can't remember the inner diameter of that fuel pipe , if it's 8mm then i have a high quality release coupling for sale on ebay as i've gone back to original pipe , here's a link, if i've posted it correctly .Apart from that hows the yellow wasp going .Jiffy Tite fuel coupling 8mm | eBay
 

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If you can get someone to hold the tank high enough to get to the fuel rail you can undo the fuel banjo bolt off the fuel rail. You can then lift the tank and fuel pipe clear of the bike to carry out the surgery. I expect the previous owner used a pliers to press in the clips and broke them, ( common occurrence with that tool missing). Absolutely awful design and idea, many owners have done the mod. you have to remove the tank to work on the bike , why make the removal of the tank so awkward.
I think he will find those banjo fittings are practically welded to the fuel pipe so it will need to be cut to add a coupling anyhow, may be easier to just cut and add the coupling in situ halfway along the fuel line . I found access to the banjo awkward till i tried a ring spanner with the right bend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To get the pictures I just had it propped up on it's side, It's coming off to change the spark plugs and have a general look around to how she's holding up, so for now I might just manage with it still connected. I've also got to diagnose an electrical issue as the starter motor is not triggering.

I am interested to know, which part of the plug the tabs were on? I would make sense that if the "special tool" could be modified to apply the release that the tabs would have previously done. Does any have a photo of an unbroken plug?
 

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To get the pictures I just had it propped up on it's side, It's coming off to change the spark plugs and have a general look around to how she's holding up, so for now I might just manage with it still connected. I've also got to diagnose an electrical issue as the starter motor is not triggering.

I am interested to know, which part of the plug the tabs were on? I would make sense that if the "special tool" could be modified to apply the release that the tabs would have previously done. Does any have a photo of an unbroken plug?
View attachment 39086 View attachment 39086
 
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