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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think I have the dreaded coil stick problem, but as you know its a bit of a job to access them, I had a go tonight but was not sure about fuel lines, as there is about half a tank of fuel will it spew everywhere when i take off fuel lines? I didnt go any further than removing air box top with tank balanced on seat position(not the best idea ) but gave up and put it back together as I need to use it for work for the next couple of days, thanks to the mechanic at mot station where I put my car in on saturday only for the clown to smash it and leave me without transport, I know what your gonna say about that one that they should supply me with alternative transport but I let mot run out and car failed test so dont have much of an argument on that side I get it back thursday so no great hardship, then I'll start to pull nellie to bits and lavish her with affection, also it wasnt very clear on how to remove airbox completely is it fixed from underneath or shall it be more apparent once I remove tank completely?:confused:
 

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Hi Drew,

You should have got a black plastic 'T' shaped plug in the 'took kit' to bung up the fuel hole to prevent the fuel from pishing out after you remove the tank and you will also need the black plastic collar that is used to release the fuel hose from the tank. Be careful that you don't break off the 2 little lugs that are used to hold the fuel hose in place or you will be looking to replace the whole fuel pump and they are not cheap.

To remove the airbox you will need to loosen off the 3 band clips underneath that hold the airbox onto the throttle bodies. This is a bit fiddly but a torch and mirror should help you to see them.
 

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when you remove the fuel tank there is a gap between the frame rails and rear of airbox, its possible to use a 4mm allen key to loosen the clamps to the airbox and injectors. to remove the airbox lid there are 4mm allen bolts around the edge and one also in the centre . there is a device that enables the de-coupling of the fuel tank and another plastic piece that blocks the exit to stop fuel leakage. you have to remember to uncouple the air sensor at the left front of the air box and also the baromatic pipes on the right(there maybe the tipover switch still at the front of the airbox as well still). I'm sure someone will find the previous threads on all this procedure (laurence ?) to ensure nothings missed. You can always check on here for the workshop manual to assist.obviously there are more items such as air tubes connecting via the push fit seal to the airbox as well but again going through the whole procedure should be done methodically.
 

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Hi kiddy

To remove the fuel tank you need the "C" shaped plastic tool and a fuel tank plug tool, both of which you should have in you benelli tool kit.

Undo the two small allen screws at the front of the tank holding the key guard then remove the two larger allen bolts. At the rear of the tank, remove the front seat and undo the single large allen bolt.

Lift the fuel tank up resting the rear on the rear mounting frame (I use a cloth to protect the tank), remove the two fuel overfill pipes and the fuel pump connector block and the insert the "C" tool into the fuel line recess. This will release the two clips that hold the fuel line in place. Once the fuel line is released, fit the plug tool in the hole left by the fuel pipe and remove fuel tank. It takes practice but you should get the hang of it!

Alternatively if you don't have the tank removal tools,undo the tank, place a large soft cloth on the seat, undo the two fuel overfill pipes and fuel pump connector block, then turn the tank 180 degrees and secure using a bungee strap after lifting the fuel cap cover up for a hook.

You will need to remove the upper fairing and air tubes before you can remove the air box. When removing the air box, do not turn on the ignition with the air temp switch disconnected as when you put her together again and start her up the dash electronics warning light will be displayed and cannot be turned off without the Axone.

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You guys are brill! faster response time than the emergency services! I didnt get a tool kit with mine (where would you store it anyway?) thinking I may just cut the fuel line and fit a quick relase conector that way dont have to risk buggering anything up, will just run down the fuel over the next day or two, are the two lines at the sides breathers/overflow and if im correct you just put a loop to connect them together, thanks again guys no doubt I shall be asking more advice over the winter months when I finally get round to the stripdown:clap:
 

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are the two lines at the sides breathers/overflow and if im correct you just put a loop to connect them together
They are fuel overspill pipes and there is no need to loop them together after you have disconnected them. Just remember to shove them back on again after you are re-fitting the tank.

Oh, the took kit is for home maintenance and is not meant to be carried on the bike as they never break down. ;) )
 

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heine gericke sell the 8mm fuel quick release couplings that fit our fuel line and as previously mentioned elsewhere have a solid plastic inner as well as the outer rubber part and i'm sure someone else will confirm that it is 8mm ones required. there are other places to purchase these couplings from and the nets great for this. :)
 

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Don't use 8 mm or you'll have a right bugger of a job trying to widen the inner diameter of the fuel hose enough to take it.

Use 6mm instead and get the type that seals both ends of the pipe when you disconnect the coupling.
You can get them from here
 

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:eek: :eek: sorry i realised i put 8mm knowing that i should of put 6mm as a previous thread was where someone had used an allen key to widen it and it fractured the pipe.apoligies and yep 6mm 6mm !!!(someone put me out of my misery by shooting me with an 6mm bullet ;)
 

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Tools

There is a person breaking a Tornado on Fleabay UK..he should have a tool kit available. Give him a call and see if he still has it. A fuel pump is on there for 150 quid (just in case). Good luck mate. Lloyd et al should be able to guide you through everything.

JR
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks to all for feedback, I just purchased quick release from laurance's e-bay link, think I will go for the tool kit too as no doubt a special plug key will be required, I've come to the conclusion that benelli made a bike to make them loads of money from repairs, my thoughts being that by the amount of fasteners etc that you have to remove before even catching a glimpse of the coil sticks is a bit daunting, even I was wishing that Russ was a bit closer as I would have gladly just handed it over to him. Its just that its a bit special and not your usual jap stuff that makes me a bit wary, but no doubt I'll get used to pulling it apart (only for the minor stuff though as I'll be entrusting Russ for that:bow: )
 

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think I will go for the tool kit too as no doubt a special plug key will be required
To be honest Kiddy, If you are going to fit the fuel line coupler I wouldn't bother getting a took kit as youll have no use for it as long as you have a few allen keys and a screw driver handy.

As for the 'Plug key' if you are talking about a spark plug spanner, you don't get one in the Benelli tool kit.
 

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To be honest Kiddy, If you are going to fit the fuel line coupler I wouldn't bother getting a took kit as youll have no use for it as long as you have a few allen keys and a screw driver handy.

As for the 'Plug key' if you are talking about a spark plug spanner, you don't get one in the Benelli tool kit.
Only thing that may be handy, that came in my toolkit, was a pair of 'C' spanners for adjusting the preload on the rear shock - that is, of course, if you feel the need to adjust the preload on your rear shock :D .

I too have my airbox off at present, along with acres of plastic, pretty little fasteners rolling around all over the drive , garage floor, under the bench etc :doh: ; with a view to waterproofing the coils. Mine hasn't had the airbox drain mod. done, so I will do that, and I would like to waterproof the coilsticks before they play up - wot's this, you say, preventative maintainence :clap: :D ! So, what do I do? Squirt some silicone sealant around the connector? The coils are original fitment JCI's. All advise gratefully received... :) .

Cheers

Ian
 

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.. I would like to waterproof the coilsticks before they play up - wot's this, you say, preventative maintainence :clap: :D ! So, what do I do? Squirt some silicone sealant around the connector? The coils are original fitment JCI's. All advise gratefully received... :) .
Have a look here, and you'll see what you're up against.
2nd pic down shows a slot at the top of the cap. There's 2 or 3 of these. They should be taped over. If not, force some neutral cure silicone sealant into them.
When you refit them, use grease on the coil body to seal it to the top rubber collar, more grease on the bottom rubber seal, and finally, yet more grease on the outside of the top rubber, where it will seal to the head.
To break the seal as you slide them into place, first poke a .8mm wire down the well. When the coil is in place, slide the wire out.
 

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wow

Man i love this forum.... Its the second reason I bought a Tornado.
The first was the styling obviously :)

Engenia..you deserve a lifetime award for the advice/help/guidance/knowledge you impart on your fellow Benelli owners :)
 

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Have a look here, and you'll see what you're up against.
2nd pic down shows a slot at the top of the cap. There's 2 or 3 of these. They should be taped over. If not, force some neutral cure silicone sealant into them.
When you refit them, use grease on the coil body to seal it to the top rubber collar, more grease on the bottom rubber seal, and finally, yet more grease on the outside of the top rubber, where it will seal to the head.
To break the seal as you slide them into place, first poke a .8mm wire down the well. When the coil is in place, slide the wire out.
Hi Errol. many thanks for your swift reply :D :bow: ! My coils don't appear to have these slots. Sorry for my lack of ability to add pics to this post, but if you wouldn't mind looking at my gallery, I have put 2 pics of the coil in there. It seems a bit different to the ones on your web-site, and the cap seems well sealed. So, I was thinking that maybe just grease around the stick to rubber top seal, outer top seal and bottom seal would be sufficient. Waddaya reckon?

Thanks again.

Ian
 

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There was in mine. Too long, mind you. I had to cut it down to clear the frame at #3.
That dementia is a Bugger....just checked my took kit and guess what, yip, 1 shiny spark plug spanner present and correct.:doh:

Must remember to increase my tablet intake in future............now what was I going to do with those tablets again :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
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