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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

I've recently purchased a 2012/01 100th anniversary edition Tre-k and the history on it is a little vague, no service history in the book but a bit of information from the previous owner and a few parts that got replaced.

It appears all the standard things have been done that I have read on here (air box flaps removed, GPR exhaust, exhaust flab left open, k&n filter and dyno tuned.

I was told the tune that was put in was the only one updated, the original second effeciany map was left as is and don't work well with all those mods.

The bike has 18,700km on it and came with these parts (attached) I was told it was a Z gear and from what I've seen online this is one of common failure points and it looks like this one failed what ever it is as the geared shaft is in 3 pieces. Can someone confirm that's what I'm looking at?

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Also when I lifted the seat I saw the following unplugged and I assume it's for the exhaust valve and it the air intake flaps plugs, can someone also confirm this.

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I Assisi noticed people on here said to change the rebound/preload from what the factory settings are, I weigh 73kg is something I should do and if so can someone give me the numbers for each so that I I can try them. I changed the settings back to factory from what the previous owner had and that made a big difference, if I can get better that's be great.

Once last thing is, I've owned a few high powered motorcycles in my life and this has to be the most sensitive throttle I've ever experienced, it's very easy for a bump in the road mid corner to cause the bike to jump due to throttle movement, its there a way to improve this so it's not so harsh,i assumed this would have been taken care of in the dyno but apparently not.

Any help would be appreciated, this forum has already been very helpful.
 

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The broken shaft is the alternator drive shaft. The gear that drives it (from the clutch intermediate gear) is the infamous Z25, the cause of the 1130's "Hot Start Fault".
Also in that top pic is what looks like parts of the sprag clutch. It is driven from the starter motor through another gear set, to start the engine via the alternator drive shaft. (One busy shaft!)

The 2 pin Superseal connector in the bottom pic should be connected to nothing other than a blanking plug, until you upload a new map, when the 2 pins are shorted to enable the upload. This is a feature of the Walbro/Athena ECU.

There is a possibility that your throttle grip has been changed to one that gives an increase in throttle opening vs twist. Something to look into anyway. My RXV550 had such a grip installed. It made a very willing bike into something almost unrideable in traffic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The broken shaft is the alternator drive shaft. The gear that drives it (from the clutch intermediate gear) is the infamous Z25, the cause of the 1130's "Hot Start Fault".
Also in that top pic is what looks like parts of the sprag clutch. It is driven from the starter motor through another gear set, to start the engine via the alternator drive shaft. (One busy shaft!)

The 2 pin Superseal connector in the bottom pic should be connected to nothing other than a blanking plug, until you upload a new map, when the 2 pins are shorted to enable the upload. This is a feature of the Walbro/Athena ECU.

There is a possibility that your throttle grip has been changed to one that gives an increase in throttle opening vs twist. Something to look into anyway. My RXV550 had such a grip installed. It made a very willing bike into something almost unrideable in traffic.
Thanks for the reply, that's definitely clears done things up there, is it a worry for the rest of the engine that this shaft broke, would it have cause those other bits to fail or were they replacing them because they were a known weak point for example the sprag clutch?

With regards to the grip, yes it has Oxford heated grips and throttle lock kit. Is there a easy, reasonably cheap way to test this theory re the grip being the cause.

Thanks again,
 

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Hi .. I鈥檝e got Oxford heated sports grips on my Trek , but I don鈥檛 get that snatchy throttle issue maybe your holding on too tightly ? 鈥 or as Errol was saying your bike may have the quick throttle replacement.. identified by only one cable not two ? I think .
from the fact your bike has come to
you with saved broken bits shows me the last owner cared enough to replace parts and prove it was looked after .
can鈥檛 see that will cause any problems in the future either . Just check and replace when needed , I call these parts a serviceable item as they take a lot of stick 馃榿
 

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is it a worry for the rest of the engine that this shaft broke
Not as far as I've heard
... a known weak point for example the sprag clutch?
It probably failed and was replaced. It's not common, but there are a couple of instances.
Is there a easy, reasonably cheap way to test this theory re the grip being the cause.
You'd need to compare yours with a new one to see if the "cams" are different. Basically, a quick throttle pulls more cable at the start of the movement by increasing the radius close to the nipple holder. A slow one decreases the radius in that section. That's probably what you want.
Here's a post from a KTM forum that describes how to do it yourself
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is the current setup for the throttle and it looks stock, I asks so checked out the cam profile and it looks constant with no obvious humps.

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So I followed the above ktm guide and it's exactly what I was after, thank you very much.

Just one more thing I notice a very slow drip (1 drip every few hours) oil leak, is this a concern, it appears to be coming from the bottom of section where the coolant come in and it's defiantly oil and it's not coming from the breather tube, it's dry as a bone.

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There is a small weep hole on the engine where the coolant pump slides into . This is possibly where the oil is coming from , on the impeller shaft is a clever little oil and water seal as well as an o ring it may need to changed or reset into its position . I had to do that to mine as it wasn鈥檛 fitted correctly this meant stripping the water pump apart to do this . Relatively easy job .

but do clean all around that area first to make sure it鈥檚 not coming from above the pump from somewhere else like the alternator coupling ect.
 
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