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Neutral

Ahh the dreaded neutral question rears its ugly head once again. The bike should have had a mod making neutral an easier proposition. You can tell by the color of the input shaft, brass colored and the mod has been done. In the end you stilll have to hit neutral on the role to a stop...if not your hosed. It isn't a cable problem, according to Glen from benelli UK. It is a angle on the gear cogs problem. Evidentally the angle that the cogs were ground at is too sharp to just slot in while they are moving which is why you can hit them on the roll (i.e. everything moving) and almost impossible when you stop.
 

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As johnnyrottin stated, the gears are cut in a way that makes it difficult to disengage them while they're not moving. "Undercut" I think is the profile. As I understand it, undercutting ensures that a partial engagement will progress to full engagement, and not the other way.

[:doh: I think I'm talking out my ar$e here! Undercutting is not a feature, but a weakness, that comes about in the manufacture of gears with few teeth. Explained nicely by Douglas Wright of the Uni of Western Australia
I'll leave the original un-edited, just in case some budding Mechanical Engineer wants to take issue, and correct it! (please)]


There are a couple of things you can do though -
1. Make sure you have the steel clutch lever (connects to the cable on the LHS) - not the cast original. Mine's painted black.
2. Adjust the hand lever to begin disengagement early in it's movement. If the lock nut is not tightened, the screw will eventually move in, reducing your travel.
3. Make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly - pg 162 in the Workshop manual


The bike should have had a mod making neutral an easier proposition. You can tell by the color of the input shaft, brass colored and the mod has been done.
Not sure what johnyrottin is referring to here. Mind explaining johny?

Cheers
Errol
 

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Gears

It sounds like you have more info than I do on this one. Glen explained it as the gearign were cut at too sharpe an angle. This angle making it too difficult to slip in.

I'm finding it difficult to get my gear to slip in too.... oh hang on we're talking about bike gears, not wedding gear!:rolling:

(I really do need to get out more and find a woman!)
 

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Another Undercut

As the gears are constant mesh, each pair are allways in mesh. The Undercut that may make it harder to find neutral is the undercut of the dogs.This undercut is intentional to slip in to gear and not out of gear. Benelli may have specified too much undercut.(mind you it is better than jumping out of gear)
As above the clearance at the clutch as in engenias pics should be set 1st (with slack on cable) then set lever clearance as manual. The RS has a non adjustable lever and gives a bit more dissengagement than the adjustable tre one. My RS finds neutral quite easy,not the easiest, but you get used to it.
 

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Finding Neutral


My RS finds neutral quite easy,not the easiest, but you get used to it.
Seconded! My RS finds neutral at a standstill - With delicate use of my size 12
hoof....
Could still be easier mind (Like as easy as it can manage to empty it's fuel tank!).

S
 

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..My RS finds neutral at a standstill - With delicate use of my size 12 hoof...
Maybe we should be asking Benelli if there is a difference in the RS gearbox dogs, cf. the standard Tornado. If there is, perhaps some judicious application of a grinding wheel may help.

Nathan, have you any contacts at the factory?

cheers
Errol
 

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Guy's the reason the bike won't select neutral is from clutch drag, not from undercut engaging dogs (although that does make it worse if the clutch is dragging).

The Tornado's should have had the fibre plates changed when the actuating arm was changed, the RS's came with the different plates, as did the TnT.... that's why they select neutral much easier.

I think the replacement fibre plates may be the same as Honda CR250, I vaguely remember them having the Honda 'KA4' code on them, but then the KA4 code may mean something totally different?

The replacement plates were thinner (.2mm) also, I think an extra steel plate (2.0mm) had to be fitted with the new fibres to keep the stack height correct so the slipper action worked correctly.

Hope this of help :)
 
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