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Hi everyone. As I stand in traffic, for some unknown reason to me, my headlamp keeps switching off. As soon as I give it revs, even very slightly, it switches back on again. Does anyone know what the hell causes this and how the problem can be eliminated? Thank you all!
 

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This is quite normal with the latest maps on the ECU.
It is made that way to get the most charge to the battery to stop the problem with starting.
You should have an idle adjuster on the left side under the tank that you could adjust a bit if you are really worried about it.
 

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Hi

As benelliDave said, it's a "feature" of the TnTs designed to help save the battery when the bike is idling. If the fans are on, and the engine is below about 1500, the ECU will cut the lights to save power. This can become really annoying if you have the bike's idle adjusted up to 1500 to avoid stalls. The result being the headlight flashing on and off whilst sitting at the lights. Currently I have my idle down around 1100 which is the factory default so usually once the ECO cuts the lights, they stay off until I blip the throttle or take off.

God knows what drivers think when they see the lights going on and off :)

ciao
Derek
 

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Only Benelli could think that turning a bike into a lighthouse is a valid alternative to fitting a decent battery/alternator. Can the Tuneboy remove this "feature"?
Fortunately, I don't appear to have this on my map but was thinking of fitting a switch inline with the Main/Dip beam to help in traffic anyway.
 

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I'm waiting for all warranty options to be exhausted before doing the TUneBoy thing so I don't know. However I remember seeing something in a post here about it being able to set the on/off rpm for the lights. :D
 

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Only Benelli could think that turning a bike into a lighthouse is a valid alternative to fitting a decent battery/alternator. Can the Tuneboy remove this "feature"?
Fortunately, I don't appear to have this on my map but was thinking of fitting a switch inline with the Main/Dip beam to help in traffic anyway.
Actually I think it's something all Italian manufacturers seem to have issues with. My previous Aprilia had underrated wiring and I read a review of several new Ducatis that highlighted the eletrical issues they had. :D
 

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I don't believe it!

Hi Guys,

I've been seriously thinking of getting a TNT for a while now, but a few issues have put me off...mostly the electrical ones. If I payed say up to £6500 (forget up to 10k for a new one ) I would be really pissed off if the headlights started going off every time I stop in traffic! :rolling:
And if the battery is always going flat.:mad:
I know its a nice bike but for christs sake this is 2008 not 1960 surely Benelli have got this sort of thing sorted.

How can they justify the high purchase price if the bloody things have annoying issues with the electrical systems. You owners must be really patient guys I really admire you.
I dont want to be rude but aren't Benelli taking the piss a bit? :confused:

Anyway I haven't given up yet and I still might buy one, Cos I just love the look of em' :bow:

HM.
 

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Dont let thaty sort of thing put you off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have had both the light on constantly with NO battery probs and now run the new map that cuts the main beam ONLY AT STANDSTILL and have not had any probs at all ( now i`ve said it we all know what will happen!!!:doh:)
 

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Dont let thaty sort of thing put you off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have had both the light on constantly with NO battery probs and now run the new map that cuts the main beam ONLY AT STANDSTILL and have not had any probs at all ( now i`ve said it we all know what will happen!!!:doh:)

This main beam occurs at night too though? That's a pretty big deal if that's the case. I mean, some people actually ride a night, and sometimes even in the rain. Imagine you're at an intersection, the left turn light is green, and your light is red still, the cars in the oncoming lane are turning, then they lose their green (but can still go) and you're the only guy going straight in your lane. End result, they didn't know you were there, they hit you, because they made the left into you, or right in front of you. Sounds kind of like an unnecessary risk if you ask me.
 

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:doh: I just checked my lights at standstill with the fans on and I do have this terrrible new map. (Interesting coz I thought this map meant I should be getting 10mpg and petrol soaked clothing, which I don't).

Anyhow, does anyone know if the Tuneboy package can disable this sort of thing or shall I have to get a switch, some big wire and connect my own fused feed direct to the lights?

I'm b*ggered if I'm letting some Italian software engineer tell me when I want the lights on!
 

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Thanks Busaguy - Sounds like a solution since I have an uprated battery

According to Rusty, the headlight comes back on when you exceed 3000 rpm or thereabouts. So all you have to do it rev it at the lights and everything's fine. :doh:
 

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Yeah just hold the throttle at 10,000 rpm

Yeah just hold the throttle at 10,000 rpm and all will be ok!

Especially if you have a noisy can, no one will notice,especially that squad car 3 rows back!

If you have an uprated battery then that will hold more charge, but the problem is the alternator or charging system doesn,t send enough charge when the system is loaded with lights and fans etc, so the battery is nearly always in a discharged state.

A simple upgrade is all thats needed. Why cant Benelli sort and supply this?
Are the recent bikes ie 2007/08 more sorted or do they suffer from the same probs?

Anyone?

HM.
 

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The tune boy software can disable the lights off feature on the TNT
Disable it. You don't need it as far as I can tell. Admittedly, the following calcs come from a Tornado - I don't have the specs on a TNT - but I can't see it'll be much different.

Low Beam - 55W - 4.6A @ 12V
Fuel Pump - 5A @ 13.5V & 100% duty cycle (it's not, especially at idle)
Fans - 15A - this is the fuse size, so it's GOT to be less, & it probably won't be running, especially at night, when it's cooler.
Ignition - 7.6A - if 100% duty cycle - again it's not, but the remainder should cover the ECU
Tail light - 10W - 1A - this is a confident guess
Stop Light - 15W - 1.3A - another guess
(Have I missed anything?)

Total Battery drain, at idle, at night, is 34.5A

This is probably more than the alternator will put out at idle - no different to any other vehicle on the road, as far as I can tell.

A change of lights takes, what, 5 minutes? 1/10 hr
3.45Ah from a 10Ah battery - if the alternator isn't spinning at all - it is.

At 5000 rpm, the alternator delivers 48A @ 13.5V. More than enough to replace what the battery lost at the lights.

I have a Tornado, with a Dekka battery. I've changed the wiring so that the low beam remains on when the high beam is on, So I'm drawing an additional 4.6A on the open road. I also do 25 km at night 5 days a week, half of which is in a built up area, with 12 opportunities to sit at idle while lights change.
I've never had a problem with a flat battery.

Only 1 way you guys will find out if you need the lights off feature, is by disabling it. You'll soon know if you've got a problem, the lights will begin to dim, as the battery voltage drops, and the dash starts flashing BATTERY at you.
 

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New Map For The Out For The Tnt

There is a new map that we now use to get rid of the power save mode on the TNT...Your Dealer should have it.We have been installing it for 2 months now..
 

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Had a hot starting comedy moment this morning - stopped at the garage with a hot engine and a fairly flat battery coz a) its not been run for a while and b) the first 20 mins of my journey to work is through town which doesn't give the battery much chance to charge.

Admittedly, I said this in June last year (on this thread) but I'm definitely going to wire a headlamp switch in so the battery can charge up through town. All I need is some RH switchgear which has a Headlamp switch as well as the Start + Hazard + Run/Stop. Can anyone think of a bike which does?

Stupid bl00dy italian electrics grumble moan :doh:
 

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A problem

Had a hot starting comedy moment this morning - stopped at the garage with a hot engine and a fairly flat battery coz a) its not been run for a while and b) the first 20 mins of my journey to work is through town which doesn't give the battery much chance to charge.

Admittedly, I said this in June last year (on this thread) but I'm definitely going to wire a headlamp switch in so the battery can charge up through town. All I need is some RH switchgear which has a Headlamp switch as well as the Start + Hazard + Run/Stop. Can anyone think of a bike which does?

Stupid bl00dy italian electrics grumble moan :doh:
What I did was remove the headlight, pull the negative wire and disable one of the low beam headlamps, this should leave the additional 4.5 amps in the battery, ( 55Watt globe)
 

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Mallard

That's a good idea - I'm not a great fan of riding without headlights since most car drivers are morons - Plus it doesn't require much wiring so I could do it quickly.

I'll might still do it properly in the long term since its only putting a switch in series with the headlight relay, even if I just put a scabby switch on the dash for the time being

Incidentally, this is despite having a modified starter (2007 vintage) and battery although, as I say, it was a bit flat. Clearly, its all still a bit marginal although in fairness, its the first time its happened since they were changed
 

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repeating myself

Mallard

That's a good idea - I'm not a great fan of riding without headlights since most car drivers are morons - Plus it doesn't require much wiring so I could do it quickly.

I'll might still do it properly in the long term since its only putting a switch in series with the headlight relay, even if I just put a scabby switch on the dash for the time being

Incidentally, this is despite having a modified starter (2007 vintage) and battery although, as I say, it was a bit flat. Clearly, its all still a bit marginal although in fairness, its the first time its happened since they were changed
.
Low beam ( and high beam) have 2 seperate lights, both lows are 55 watt, All i did was remove the negative terminal of the LH light (ie in aus we drive on RHS), then re-install the light assembly back to origional, since then the lights have never "turned off" at idle, but they did previously. must admit i never took much notice since the map was re-entered.
So I always have 1 low beam running full time, and half the power consumption, the clearance lamps are 5 watta incedently
 
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