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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Those of you that have installed a slip-on Please share your experience.
I recently got the Devil carbon slip-on and I am having a bit of a problem installing it.
I have removed the bolt that mounts the pipe right behind the right footpeg but I still don't enough wiggle room. Now I know it was suggested that if I loosen the headers from the block it will allow the pipes to sag down enough to allow the removal of the stock can. The reason I am reluctant to do this is because I personally have really bad luck with snapping off these studs on other bikes. Definitely don't want that experience again. So I'm looking for reassurance that this ain't gonna happen.
Would it be easier, given my paranoia about snapping off a stud, to remove the subframe? It looks like only 3 bolts per side hold it on. Or perhaps removing one or two would allow the subframe to pivot upwards.

any thoughts and advice greatly appreciated.

Gary
 

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Hi CDN?TNT,

I recently had the can off my CR to fit a wideband sensor, the can came off without removing the mid section piece, I just removed the two bolts under the seat holding the can mounting bracket to the frame and the exhaust spring and it lifted off no problem, to get the mid piece off was more difficult as it does not clear the rear shock bottom mounting, all I did was use a short piece of wood to "ease" the exhaust down and got enough clearance to remove it ;)

Bye the way, can coming off again soon as ordered a Quat-D can, so more data runs with tuneboy so I can set the map to suit it

 

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Whats a wideband sensor.
Is it to do with speed guns, does it work?

Do you recomend it?
thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply.
I have the two mounting bolts off but there doesn't seem to be enough clearence to lift the can off. I removed the mid-section mounting bolt behind the footpeg but still no go.

Well if you managed it must be possible.
Off to the garage agian.
 

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changing the end can

Hi

If not already done, try taking the hugger off for more space. I agree the end can should come off easily once you've removed the bolts under the passenger seat, and the spring holding it to the U-bend section. No need to loosen the rest of the exhaust. Have you removed the light/number plate hanger and taken it out of the way? Dropping the back wheel out is easy, but shouldn't be needed.

I'm about to put my exhaust back on, so if you need pictures send me a message and I'll email some. Mine's also a Devil can, by the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey Robin
How did you find the sound of the Devil can compared to stock.
I'm looking at least four more months of winter before I get to fire it up.

Thanks for the help.
 

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devil can sound

Hi

The Devil can is similar with the baffle in, though perhaps a bit deeper. With the baffle out it's a bit louder and sounds great, but not crazy like some open cans - you wouldn't get Police attention, I don't think.

I've also removed the flap in the exhaust completely, and blanked off the holes, so I'll see what difference that makes. I'd previously wired it open, as I wasn't convinced it opened properly, and it's hard to check.

I've heard of someone who's removed the sleeves from the headers, to give a bigger internal diameter - he said it made a big difference. I suppose it depends how far you want to go.
 

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Thank you Laurence I was totally in the wrong direction
I did not realise that this monitoring kit was possible.
Thank you
 

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headers

Yea man get the sleeves out and the air box valves out and now that the exhaust valve is out it will sing... mine at the mo is kicking out 125bhp at the back wheel goes like stink:) :) :)




mmmm how many times can i say OUT :doh: :doh: :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well to those that found it to be a simple bolt-on ... you must live a charmed life.lol

4 hours later,
My advice would be to not be gentle with it when you are trying to fit the canister pipe into the midpipe section. You really have to wrestle with it to get it to fully seat down in the connection. I definitly had to remove the mounting point that is right behind the right side foot peg. Now with everything tightened up that mounting point is a good inch away from ever meeting up again. I tried using a jack under the mid pipe to try and move it into place but no way. It was actually lifting the bike off the ground. I don't think that mounting point is critical anyway.

oh ya that gasket that comes with it... sharp as a razor... I can now say I have bleed for my Benelli.

Before you attach the muffler fit the pipe it bolts up to into the mid pipe when it is fully seated wrap some tape around so you will know when you have seated the pipe properly with the canister on it. Remove the pipe and securely bolt on the canister. Wrestle it in to the pre-determined depth.
Now is when I fitted the bracket that secures the plate and turn signals otherwise it was just getting in the way.

Hopefully someone else will find this useful when they do theirs.

Gary
 
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