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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys

This is my fist post on here so please be gentle with me.

I am looking to upgrade from my ZXR750 and have fell in love with the looks of Tornado TRE.

I have seen various dealers such as DK and WJM selling the bikes new for around 5.5 - 6 K(will the dealers go cheaper to clear them). I have even seen one with 149 miles for 5k. Can you give me any tips on buying one. I live in the west of Scotland an as far as I can see there are no dealers near me that could service it for its warranty.

Also is it pot luck with the reliability with these bikes, I seem to read lots of reviews that say you cant get them in to neutral at a standstill, is this true with all of them ? And what is it like getting parts for them.

My friends think I am mad and should by an R1,Fireblade,GSXR but that just too predictable.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Mark
 

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Mark ,
I just joined here 2 days ago as i have the same thoughts as you, i run a Blade at the moment and want something a bit different.
I spoke with Andy at KJM yesterday and he was very helpfull, Kjm would in the event of a major warranty claim uplift the bike and do the repairs and return it, or if it was something silly they have an arrangement with a dealer in scotland to carry out warranty.
The only thing is i would need to sell my bike private as the trade in deal was not good as my blade is in new condition its an 02.

But i will go for the Benelli for sure in the next few weeks.

Stevie

Glasgow
 

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Welcome to the form Tonton and not forgetting Stevie. Al is in your area and he'll chime in in a while. You'll know who he is cos he lives in a Spam can.

:rolling:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi there chaps

I was going to keep my ZXR for going in and out of work in the summer and thought of using the Benelli for runs out.

I was just wondering if you could get a wee break in the price as I dont want to trade anything in.

I dont want a 6 grand broken ornament that no one will touch.

The lack of dealers about here worries me a we bit

Where KJM going to transport the bike up to you ?

But what a good looking bike!
 

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Did someone mention spam???:D

Welcome to the forums tonton. Glad to see that the clan north of the border is starting to increase in size:clap:

The main tip I can give you would be to ask what modifications have been done to the bike. Ask about the neutral problem (mine was almost impossible to get into neutral but after it had the modification done it's as sweet as a nut:)) although if you have seen the bike in the flesh you could always try it out first hand. Ask what mapping the bike is running and if anything has been replaced (ie: the clocks). Check the paint work with a fine tooth comb as it is prone to peeling on older batches of fairings (again, mine was replaced and is now toot sweet).
As for servicing, it's true that we suffer here in Scotland with the availability of dealers (or lack of) but these fella's (http://www.sandybloymotorcycles.com/bikes2.htm) should be able to look after you (although no one here has used them yet).
KJM in Wigan are very good and Glen the spanner monkey (sorry Glen;)) will make sure that your bike is spot on before he allows it to leave his workshop. KJM can and will pick up and deliver your bike back to you if it goes tits up but sometimes the time it can take to get parts can be very frustrating for both us and KJM.
I was out for a blast on mine today Mark and I still love it:D I had major problems with mine but they all seem to be fixed now (apart from the odd 'cut out' now and then) thank god.

Al:D
 

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Tips

I bought a Tre without knowing too much about it, but if you own a bike you already know how to do some fettling as most require it. Italian bikes are more cantankerous than other makes and WILL require more of this fettling. The key is to understand the situation and may require you to read up on the thing and become your own parts warehouse for items with low expected lifetimes; you've gotta pay to play in this game. I owned a Ducati Superlight that had similar issues, both with cylinder head studs and nonexistant parts network.

I have yet to have a problem with the Tre though and the Tre is prettier than any Ducati or Bimota in my opinion (with the possible exception of the 1098 tricolor as I reserve judgement till I see it in the flesh).

To some degree it boils down to what you want. I know this sounds like the comments section at the end of some cycle magazine where they fail to pick a winner, but here goes. For me, the family car is Honda Pilot. This thing does everything right - great quality, everything where you need it, lots of interesting features; BUT it does nothing beyond the function and this is why for vehicles that get me from point A to point B (or power equipment - Honda does this stuff sickeningly well) it's a Honda. For something that has more emotional appeal, like a motorcycle - any Honda is just a boring tool. A very effective and reliable tool, but a boring one nontheless.

And even if you track the thing most of the bikes tested are within 10% of each other in terms of lap times in similar hands. Are you really going to miss the difference when in two years you'll be looking for the latest offering from Japan because the only reason for buying it was the spec sheet and the fact that so-and-so rode it to last year's championship?

A note on the Tre and neutral. If you at a light and you have failed to select neutral before coming to a rest, just rev her a little and you will be rewarded with a nice shift into neutral. You may end up in second the first try, but it is easier to access neutral from 2nd, either stopped or using the above technique...

Dean
 

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Secont Tre

Gentlemen on the list,

I am about to take posession on my second 05 Tre. The first one is being replaced due to a self distructing motor in under 500 miles. You may remember some of my previous posts under "Trouble in Paradise." Anyway, I'm hoping for better luck with the replacement bike. Since the bike I will be getting is essentially from the same batch as the original, I would expect to find some of the same problems. What I need to know is after what serial number did the factory replace the clutch baskets that were failing, and at what number did they do the transmission mode the enabled the finding of neutral much easier? I am located in Dallas, TX and there are no dealers on the continent. No other Tre's for a thousand miles I would guess. So out here no one has access to this type of information.
My only source of information on the bike is through this forrum.
Thanks,
Capt. Commando
 

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welcome

Hi TONTON & welcome to your new home, if you've been scanning all the posts you'll notice there are a few retired millionaires among us who love to while away the hours on here between the serious business of drinking & sleeping.
Al, Laurence & myself are all Scotland based and i agree that KJM do a pretty good job overall. Interesting to hear that Sandy Bloy m/cs are showing an interest-being west of Scotland you'll only be about 3hrs from KJM
Cant see prices dropping any further as supplies of the 900 versions will be depleting all the time and at £3000/£4000 cheaper than an 1130 depending on whether you go for an RS/Std model they're quite a bargain (i believe KJM have a couple of std pre-reg ones for £5500).
Hope to see you on the roads this year.
 

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Buying a Tre

Well, most of it has been said (typed) earlier, but I'm sitting in a hotel in India with time on my hands so here is my five pence worth :

1) ask about what assorted mods/recalls it has had done - for example - tilt switch mod on early bikes, clutch mods to solve neutral problem (although in my experience it never goes away, it just gets better), radiator core plugs (can rot and spray water everywhere).

2) Check the paint on the lower fairing - some bikes peel like a b*gger due to poor plastic preparation.

3) Check for scratch marks on the swinging arm caused by the chain (non RS and LE versions - these had a better chain guide fitted). It's just caused by a poorly adjusted rear wheel, but could indicate a knackered chain if it's been hittin for a long time.

4) Check the exhaust lowers / fairing for grounding out scratch marks - if not there, ensure you add them at your first track day :)

5) Check for scratch marks on the seat cover (metal boot fixtures and short leg sindrome)

6) Make sure the rear view mirrors are tight (hold the stalk and wobble it). The screws can work loose if not loc-tighted.

7) Start the bike a few times and see if the clock re-sets. Not much you can do about this, but might be worth a haggle if from an independant dealer ;)

8) Check the fit of the front indicators - some were poor and can rub the paint on the fairings.

9) Check the rubber on the gear change lever - early ones (matt black) split at the tip, later ones (shiney black) seem ok

10) Check the back of the tank - easy to scratch due to it's shape - there are some good carbon guards on this forum to prevent this.

11) Check the two seats off the bike - I seem to remember from very early posts on here that some early ones split underneath.

Thats about it - apart from that take a long test ride and make sure you are grinning when you get off.

All the best.
 

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Tonton - the other option, of course, is to buy one that has been properly tested to iron out the faults - mine! just under 3k miles......See my ad in the classifieds section ;)
Cheers
Neil
 
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