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So i have a 2004 900 tre and if i could ever find nutral when i come to a stop I would love it. So any suggestions or ideas how to fix this
 

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Mine has been getting better with miles but I don't think it will ever be great. Shooting for neutral while still moving seems to work best for me.
 

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I find a gentle touch when rolling to a stop is best....someone on here gave me that tip. If you don't catch it then once you're stationary I find that you're pretty much screwed unless you turn the engine off...then its a case of pull the clutch in roll the bike forwards or backwards very slightly then you can usually get it into neutral. Just a knack that you seem to get into the longer you have the bike.

In saying all that I tend to just sit at lights with the clutch in...good exercise!
 

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So i have a 2004 900 tre and if i could ever find nutral when i come to a stop I would love it. So any suggestions or ideas how to fix this

This is a common problem with all benellis I think. Loads of posts on this already but as said above, click it into neutral before rolling to a stop. Not sure if I read somewhere that the box is designed that way to stop false neutrals when on the track?
 

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yep

Agree with what the rest have already said.

This is also what I do.

I have heard that some had an improvement with the Hydraulic clutch.

Back in 2003 when I first got the bike and asked the Factory the question through the then importer..the response I got was "its a race bike, who needs to find neutral in a race"

With this kind of reasoning to a then $33K bike, I gave up and started looking at the bright side of life:ele:

Now you know why I call myself the "Unofficial Factory Tester":D
 

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So i have a 2004 900 tre and if i could ever find nutral when i come to a stop I would love it. So any suggestions or ideas how to fix this
The gearbox was made this way on purpose. It started life as a race bike, where neutrals are bad.

There are things you can do to help - have a read here, but it should never be easy.
 

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I've learned to do it even if I miss it while coasting to a stop. I can let the clutch out just enough to move the bike a little bit, then quickly pull it in and click into neutral. As long as you leave yourself a few feet of space it's easy to do with a little practice.
 

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If you don't manage to find neutral by the time you are stationary, the other thing that you can try is to give the throttle a quick 'blip' and then nudge it in to neutral. ....works for me, but you do get a few 'boy racer' looks from the car drivers around you.
 

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As every one else has stated select neutral on the roll.

or the alternative

1) Stick you tongue out to the left or right avoiding any splattered flies:rolling:
2) have the patients of a saint :bawl:
3) kick the S**T out of it as you stall the buggar:mad:
4) after finally getting into neutral leave helmet on so as not to show your embarrasment for not having achieved neutral first time:eek:

or 5) and lastly pretend that you had no intensions of stopping and ride off.:ele:

Keep on Tre-Kin
 

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Laurence, :bow: are you sure you don't get more of a "Very Senior (old) member" look, than a "Boy Racer" look ? :rolling: :rolling: :rolling:
Hmmmmmmm, point taken.........ya cheeky git :p
 

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on my RS

I get it easy IF its idling at the correct rpm ie 1200 to 1300, any higher and I have to preselect, I had to adjust the air idle control valves or "Stepper Motor" way down to get it to idle correctly, the map says is should idle at 1200rpm when warm, but it would sit at 1400 to 1500, I did have it working perfectly but since reloading the map into the ecu its "iffy" sometime it idles at 12 to 13 sometimes not, like the ecu still thinks its cold or in gear ( the ecu makes it idle faster when in gear to overcome gearbox drag), must drag out the tuneboy and reset the AICV, then its dead easy. the occasional bli p on the throttle sometimes gives the ecu a wakeup but its no that good. I wonder how good the gear sensor that talks to the ecu is??
 

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Interesting comments regarding the origins of the design being from a race bike and hence neutral being a bad thing!

Recently I've found more and more I accidentally find neutral pulling away when changing from first to second...hardly stacks up with the race bike theory.
 

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Interesting comments regarding the origins of the design being from a race bike and hence neutral being a bad thing!
Recently I've found more and more I accidentally find neutral pulling away when changing from first to second...hardly stacks up with the race bike theory.
:bow: I suspect the production gearboxes aren't made to the same tolerances as the race bike was. I haven't had your problem, but there's a false neutral between 2nd & 3rd on many, including mine.

It is the same box design though. :)
 

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Neutral

Thank God for that! I thought the clutch was stuffed.

I was always overshooting neutral when coming to a stop, the range seems really narrow. I became so preoccupied with getting neutral, it was becoming a safety issue, i.e. not concentrating at the road ahead. I have come to live with this foyble as well.

At the lights I just leave the clutch in, or if filling up with the engine off just roll the bike back, or forth and get it in that way.
 
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