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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I couldn't find an illustrated how to on wiring open the exhaust valve (which way was open and which was closed, and I decided in any case to completely remove my valve. And take some pics along the way. I hope it helps someone.

I didn't take pics of the whole process, but I started out by removing the right footpeg bracket, loosening the header pipe nuts off, removing the exhaust joint springs (using a handy wire hook with a handle), then removing the exhaust valve actuator cable, and pulling the bendy up pipe and then the relevant piece of exhaust out of the system (with some rubber malleting, sweating, wiggling, and cursing in faux Italian so the bike knows I mean business).

The picture showing the "wiring open" is for illustration purpose only, and I found it helpful to wire it shut temporarily while I tapped flat the locking tabs before undoing the two 10mm bolts holding the valve to its shaft. 10mm socket with extension on the bolts, remove the bolts/locking tab/flap. Remove the C-clip on the "left" end of the shaft, which allows the spring cover and the spring to come off the shaft, and then the whole shaft slides out towards the actuator end (or probably either end if you've removed the quadrant).

It leaves a couple of holes which are approximately 13/32" (closest sized drill bit I had to hand) and I haven't yet blocked them up elegantly, but that's the next job. Reinstallation left as an exercise, yada yada.

I have it on good authority from ploughing through other threads on this forum that removal of the actuator solenoid is not a bad follow-up (assuming you've also done or are doing the airbox flaps removal), and its absence won't cause the electrical system any harm. I'll get onto that next time I'm poking around under the tank, in the mean time the cable(s) can dangle uselessly.

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