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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering if someone could tell me what difference a hydraulic clutch conversion made on their TnT? Is it worth it and do you get a lighter clutch pull?

I'm finding with age that the heavy clutch is becoming a real problem now when riding my TnT in traffic.

Mike
 

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Just wondering if someone could tell me what difference a hydraulic clutch conversion made on their TnT? Is it worth it and do you get a lighter clutch pull?

I'm finding with age that the heavy clutch is becoming a real problem now when riding my TnT in traffic.

Mike
I did not find it to be that much lighter in pull. Smoother and more consistent yes. However when I changed over to a Brembo Radial MC it was noticeable. And it improved getting into neutral ten fold. Even when at a stop. I went with the Evotech clutch MC btw.
 

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Just wondering if someone could tell me what difference a hydraulic clutch conversion made on their TnT? Is it worth it and do you get a lighter clutch pull?

I'm finding with age that the heavy clutch is becoming a real problem now when riding my TnT in traffic.

Mike

I run one of my bikes with the hydraulic clutch, the others are still on cable.
I do not notice any difference to be honest.
Is the cable running smoothly through the outer, disconnect it and check its operation.
I think Errol led the way on this , having had a cable break, and getting spares in Oz ain,t easy.
Wyn broke one once and I let him have the spare I had.
it is not a difficult conversion to do, the mechanical lever "pushes " about 6 mm to free the clutch, so it is not a great degree of throw to free the clutch.
 

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That's a pity. I was hoping for a reduction in lever effort.
You can play with the ratios in a hydraulic conversion, while the cable system is fixed. You'll trade off throw distance for lever force. The longer the throw, the more likely you'll find neutral at a standstill, but there is no point going for more than needed. Trouble is, you won't know how much you need until you've completed the conversion.
Cables can bind as they wear as well, making it harder and harder to pull in without warning you that things are deteriorating. That can't happen with hydraulics.
I just converted an RS that had an impossibly heavy clutch. I ended up with it much lighter and could find neutral. Win-win.
 

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Agree with some of the above statements. Not the 899 but on the 600i, the clutch is unreasonably heavy and gets worse in heavy traffic after a long ride. Few months ago converted to hydraulic clutch using kit off aliexpress. The lever feels more consistent but with increased throw.

Downsides = Less feel on the biting point vs cable, but that resolves with frequent use. Only marginal reduction in lever pull effort 😞

Overall, recommended only if the kit is reliable. With stock, a falling cable gives no advance warnings which was one of the reasons to switch in my case.
 

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I just fitted Manian to my Amazonas. Pull is now almost half. I had to fit a different hose to that supplied though from venhill.
 

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You guys must be a bunch of pussies


The clutch on my Laverda Jota requires a grip that would challenge the likes of Arnold Schwarzenegger. As a result, my left forearm now resembles that of a fiddler crab (google it).
When I grab the Benelli clutch, it's so light in comparison that I think the cable is broken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Our local dealer has a second hand Laverda Mirage on the floor. I gave the clutch a squeeze and you are right, it made the TnT's feel like a moped!

Unfortunately those days are past for me. My left hand which once had a grip of iron from 45 years of Italian motorcycles (perfect for opening jars) now has RSI. Which is most likely the result of 45 years of Italian motorcycles!

Mike
 

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Yup agree on the conversion won't help on reducing the stiffness (it still better compared to the BN600 IMHO). But on the consistency on changing gear and getting it too neutral it is ten fold better.
Also it helps to remove worries of changing the cables as it is difficult to find replacement cables especially here
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, after much procrastinating I've ordered a hydraulic conversion kit from Maniac Motors.

The weather was so nice last Saturday I took the TnT for a very naughty blast through the Yarra Valley wine growing region just outside of Melbourne. That sold me on keeping the bike a little longer (at least until I turn 70 which isn't that far off unfortunately :().

I also fitted a new battery this week. The old one lasted five years so I can't complain.

I'll let you know how the conversion goes once the kit gets here.
 

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FWIW and in my experience, the diameter of the piston in the clutch or brake master cylinder has a big effect on the effort to pressure the hydraulic system and therefore the effort applied to the slave cylinder. A common conversion to fit Yamaha R1 calipers to say a Gen 1 Vmax is to fit an FJR master cylinder which has a slightly smaller diameter piston at 14 mm. Smaller diameter =more travel at the lever = more pressure at the slave ( one finger operation)= more sensitivity of brake control. Doesn't mean much for the clutch I guess ?
 

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(at least until I turn 70 which isn't that far off unfortunately :().
Don't worry about getting old. I turned 70 in march and it's not the end of the world.

Mind you, my fitness level isn't what it was, blood pressure requires medication, benign prostatic hyperplasia makes me piss more often than I used to, artificial knee limits how much it'll bend (makes some rearset footrests uncomfortable). But on the positive side, cataract surgery improved my eyesight, hernia repair fixed another little problem, and cancer treatment is going well so far. Apart from those minor health hiccups I'm 100% fit, so I'm still riding my bikes. Or at least I would be if the weather wasn't so shitty. :)
 

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Never fitted one but would be interested in the principal. Does it have a slave cylinder similar to brake caliper ? Where / how does it activate the clutch push rod ?
What master cylinder did you decide to fit ?
All good stuff.
Cheers.
JMB
 
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