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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After my first real trip on the little lion, I thought I would share good and bad points of the bike. I bought the bike to do some dirt track farm road riding in the midst of longer tours. As most probably know its not great in the dirt and mud, but okay for fireroad type of terrian, I pushed the edge a little and got myself in trouble with it that was on me. I did a lot of mountain cornering roads and the bike handled well as far getting down in the corners and powering up the steep climbs. There is the ongoing, mind bogling fuel gauge which is annoying as hell, I went 130k on E??? How did they design this? Also annoying is the engine kill switch on the kick stand sticks so starting it in neutral and then putting it into gear kills the engine sometimes 5-6 times in a row.

The main problem though is the engine choking which at time is really dangerous and I found it happening more and more as I road. Between 4-6 rpm, esp in 3,4 gear the engine will choke out and then come back, sometimes in quick procession. If the throttle is babied its mostly okay but accelerates hard as in trying to pass and it cuts out, which I found on the highway at 160 to be very scary and problematic. I have already tried decatting it, but found it too loud. I haven't had the air filter or spark plugs changed yet because I don't trust the two Beneli shops I've seen (Thailand). I'm wondering if it is a timing issue. The bike only has 6k on it, 2,500 of which I just put on it, so I find it pathetic, after riding hondas for the last thirty years.

Chime in if you have anything to offer.

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You admitted you have a dodgy sidestand switch. This can easily cause cut-outs at higher rpms, when vibration may cause the switch to trip.

If you're not getting a code, it's not a sensor problem. That means this has got to be either electrical or fueling. The first thing I'd do is bypass the sidestand switch. If that doesn't fix it I'd look into a coil pack failing or more likely a fuel pump. Did you buy the bike new? If it's older and used I will say that the fuel filter and pump do not like to sit unused for a long time. I'd also re-seat the connectors to the fuel pump, ECU, and coil packs.

Charles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I appreciate your comments but pretty sure it's not the side stand sensor that is choking the bike at speeds since it's so regular. Also when I de-catted it, it changed the rpms where the choke happened. It also seems to be pretty common among other owners. But I would like to have the sensor removed because I don't need it and it is really annoying when it happens.
 

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De-catting it changes where the most vibration happens, and if your side stand switch (which you already said is bad) is being activated by vibration, it makes sense that the point it trips changes in the same way.

Fix one problem at a time. Just bypass the switch to start with. If I'm wrong, then there are other options. Laptop, dongle, adapter, and free ecu software will tell you a lot (under $100 for the dongle and adapter cable. Cheap as far as diagnostic equipment goes.). You can record yourself riding and then inspect every sensor readout during the times power drops off. Helped me diagnose a bad ECU on my CSC RX3. (note to self: Unplug and remove ECU before welding on the frame)

Charles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Charles,
Thanks for your advice and I am going to get rid of that side stand sensor. Aside from that though I have read other riders who say have the same problem with their bikes and how de-catting, and changing air filter and sparkplugs has mostly fixed it. I am now changing my air filter and plugs and so we shall see.
 

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So, there is a flat spot in the power band where the bike feels like it hits a wall, and accelleration is slower and vibration is higher. That's right around 7000rpm. Is that what you're talking about? Or are you talking about an actual problem with the motorcycle?

If that is what you're talking about, then I understand. I've done a full decat (headers and midpipe), filter, and ECU flash and I have more power across the board. But shittier gas milage, which was never that good to begin with. The biggest change was from the air filter. That was the last thing I tried, but I recommend it be the first. The bike simply can't breathe, and there is significant top-end power to be had with inexpensive mods. Won't change much below 6000 rpm, but above it the bike is night and day better.

Charles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, there is a flat spot in the power band where the bike feels like it hits a wall, and accelleration is slower and vibration is higher. That's right around 7000rpm. Is that what you're talking about? Or are you talking about an actual problem with the motorcycle?

If that is what you're talking about, then I understand. I've done a full decat (headers and midpipe), filter, and ECU flash and I have more power across the board. But shittier gas milage, which was never that good to begin with. The biggest change was from the air filter. That was the last thing I tried, but I recommend it be the first. The bike simply can't breathe, and there is significant top-end power to be had with inexpensive mods. Won't change much below 6000 rpm, but above it the bike is night and day better.

Charles.
Yeah, now were on the same page, I would call it a little more than flat spot but yes, and it also triggers the engiine light occasionaly. So tommorow its new air filter and plugs, get rid of the pissy sensor on the kickstand and then we shall see.
 
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