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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
Bit of a delay in writing this up, but 3 months ago I got myself an RS.

3000kms later and Im still in love with it :clap:
Although to be honest, I get the impression the bike is bored shitless with me on it. Im working on that though.

I have the flaking lowers problem already, which surprised me-the dealer was under the impression that all the recalls had been done. The clutch recall seems to have been done, as it's got the black arm on it(although I cant find now where I read that that was a sign it had been done...).

The only other "problem" is the fuelling, its very stuttery under 3-4k rpm.
It's a stock can, and Im assuming original mapping(they've only released one map for the stock rs so far?). I've been ringing around, but there doesnt seem to be anyone in Ireland with a Tuneboy set-up. Is this something that I just have to live with, or is it worth putting a power commander on it to smooth it out?
 

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Hi James
Congratulations on your new bike.

My RS is waiting on new fairing lowers too. You will possibly be waiting up to a year for them if they go through the warranty. Benelli is rather slow in processing claims.

The RS either has a 6103 stock map or the 6105 map for the open race can. The RS will perform better even with the stock exhaust if it is loaded with the 6105 map. Some dealers were loading the 6105 to all RS's before they left the showroom. Do you have a dealer you can take it to locally for them to load the 6105? Have a look at the top of the ECU, it might say what map is loaded.
If not, you can certainly go down the PC3 route and get a custom tune on a dyno. That would certainly resolve your problems!
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
:)

Cheers for that N33ly.
I dont think there's any dealers in Ireland with a Tuneboy setup- theres only 2 afaik. I've called the Dyno places and as expected their advice is put a powercommander on it.... dont have the money for it though.

I've an SV650 also, and they were notorious among owners for being stuttery low down on the FI models, the solution was a very slight adjustment on the tps, but you were able to go into a maintenance mode on the clocks to view when the FI kicked in-on some of them it wasn't kicking in until 3k rpm.
 

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Hi James

My RS runs great with the 6105 map.
If you are not going to be using the bike over the winter, why don't you take the ECU off it and send it to a reputable dealer who can easily install the 6105 for you. Wont cost much, your bike should run much better if it's currently got a 6103, saves you the grief of taking your bike to N Ireland and saves you the cost of going down the PC3 route. BTW the dealers use a diagnostic tool called Axione. Tuneboy is something you could buy but it is around the same price as a PC3.
Cheers
 

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Hi James, The clutch arm was never changed on the RS model,it was on the TRE. The clutch on the RS was different in that it had a wider middle gear. the clutch does unfortunatly fail,not middle gear breakage as TRE,but it has a problem with the shock absorber springs. (see post clutch autopsy).
If you had the ecu loaded with 6105 map when on a different bike you may have a problem,as the TPS may need a reset and to reset you need axone or tuneboy. My bike runs ok with silencer and 6103 or race pipe and 6105.
I have not heard of running a race map with standard silencer,but the race map is weaker in places at low revs. I might try it and see how it runs.
You could try checking the balance of the throttle bodies before looking elsewhere. Also read my post (RS mod)
Colin.
 

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Hiya,

I did the same thing about two months ago, and I, too am quite content with my ride. I for one have no flaking lowers problem - so far. The bike has only 5,500 km in the clock, though.
Anyway, as for the lower rpm stutter, there's very little you can do to it without an Axone, which means visiting your local bike doctor. Your best shot would be to go to a bike service with a good reputation, a one who has the device. Chances are they might have or could get the Benelli mapping and try to get the fuel mix set a bit leaner.

Other than that, I would strongly recommend the Tuneboy option. My RS came with the Tuneboy software already installed and tuned, and I have no problem with the lower end rpm. It runs quite smoothly indeed. But I would also strongly recommend to check the battery first, and make sure it's well charged and in good nick. The only problem I have had with mine so far is a dodgy battery. I'll buy a new one for next spring.
 

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welcome

hi mate, welcome to the forum. Good choice with the RS, looking forward to you posting some pics. My one has some flaking on the left hand lower, i have decided to have a complete respray. Its not that bad, only the size of a stamp but its a good excuse for a race rep paint job. Enjoy your Nelli & the best forum. :clap: :clap: :clap:
 

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I have not heard of running a race map with standard silencer,but the race map is weaker in places at low revs. I might try it and see how it runs.Colin.

Colin, give it a go and let us know how your bike likes it. The 6103 is a bit rich down low and the 6105 works a treat on my bike with the anchor of a stock exhaust :)
 

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Hi Neil, I put my standard silencer back on (my other can is a beowulf) I loaded the 6103 1st and had a test ride. Luckily my 02 sensor has continued working for some time now so i get some idea of the mixture. I then changed the map to the 6105 and tried again. You are correct as by riding back to back with both maps I can feel and see from my 02 gauge that it is better ! there is less fluctuation :clap:
The gauge is steadier and floats around the 13/1 mark under normal riding, it reads 11.5/1 when giving it full welly which is where the airfuel map is set.When on very light throttle it still shows rich at about 12/1 but is definatly better. In fact I should stop playing,on the other hand ??????
Cheers Colin.
 

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Hi Neil, I put my standard silencer back on (my other can is a beowulf) I loaded the 6103 1st and had a test ride. Luckily my 02 sensor has continued working for some time now so i get some idea of the mixture. I then changed the map to the 6105 and tried again. You are correct as by riding back to back with both maps I can feel and see from my 02 gauge that it is better ! there is less fluctuation :clap:
The gauge is steadier and floats around the 13/1 mark under normal riding, it reads 11.5/1 when giving it full welly which is where the airfuel map is set.When on very light throttle it still shows rich at about 12/1 but is definatly better. In fact I should stop playing,on the other hand ??????
Cheers Colin.
Hi Colin, thanks for the reply and feedback from your perspective :clap:
I have the Benelli Titanium slip on system on my bike just now and it also works great with the 6105.
So there you have it fellow RS owners and more importantly the chap who posted this thread.... get the 6105 loaded onto your RS no matter what pipe you have fitted, stock or open can and it should run better for you.. does for me and Colin :bow: Oh Btw Colin.. keep playing with that RS!!
 

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My New RS has the Titanium Benelli can on and fuelling must be using the latest map (i Was told it was latest) as it doesnt fluff or run bad it just pulls much better than my normal Tre and i thought that was good !. I also dont seem to have any flaky paint although i did get a spare set of lowers which if mine needed painting i could put straight on as they are red RS ones anyway.
Congratulations James on your RS and must be rare as hens doo daaas over there !!. Angus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
:)

Cheers for all the replies lads, 6105 it is. Have to go make more phonecalls :)
AD, I havent seen an RS on the roads here in 2 years... there's a couple of TNT's, one TREK and a standard TRE knocking about. Theres also an RS sitting in the dealers I got mine from. NI is a bit different though, I saw about 6 tornados at the NW200 last year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
yahhy

Hey folks,
Resurrecting an old thread instead of starting a new one :)

Have just had the RS in for a cam chain change and valve clearance check at 20k kms.
Slight bit of stretch on the chain, nothing too serious going by Engenia's guidelines but of course have lost the piece of paper the measurements were on.
Replacement DID item sourced from Orwell Motorcycles Ltd. £26+vat iirc.
Tensioner spring was "weak" according to the mechanic, so have had it replaced it with a new 75mm one sourced from ManiacMotors.

Have also splashed out on new levers from Maniac......(it's an addictive website!!)..and a TuneEcu cable from Sir Laurence :)


Resurrecting this thread because I have now uploaded the 6105 map as recommended earlier....erm...5 years ago. TPS reset also complete with 30secs idle afterwards.
The result has been a softening of the low-rpm stutter(<3krpm), but not a solution. It seems to me that it is "missing" and lurching at these rpms.

I've ordered a set of replacement coils in any case for spares. Will swap them in when they arrive and see if it makes any difference.
The center plug/coil was dirty as to be expected...but I've had this problem from day one.. so Im stopping slightly short of ruling out the center coil water issue.
I've also ordered a set of vacuum gauges to have a look at the TB synch and check the operation of the ISCV while Im playing.

I read a while back about Colintornado's recommended settings and cannot for the life of me find it again. Iirc it was to do with a CO adjustment ? (I've never gotten around to doing the ECU wire mod...lol..will also try that)

Am hoping to keep this updated-have gotten used to the stutter at low (<3krpm) at small roundabouts etc by keeping the revs up and applying back brake...but if it can be solved once and for all that would be great.

I have re-applied the 6103 map for the moment.

Any and all TuneEcu tips appreciated. I am familiar with the tests page and reading/writing maps at this stage, but not with editing cells or what the information contained actually means.

Cheers folks,
James.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Went to visit a mate who runs a garage the other day. Threw his gas analyser into the exhaust to see what she was doing at idle and high idle (3k rpm). No idea if the results are as expected-hoping some other owners can throw their tuppance into the ring and compare ?


Top results are standard idle of 1200-1300rpm when warm.
Bottom results are at 3krpm when warm.

He reckons the idle CO is very high at 2% and would expect .8 to 1%.
The hydrocarbons ppm at 3krpm are very rich Im told.
If anyone has any comparisons to give, that would be great info !

The engine load at idle is reading as 23% on TuneEcu. Would this be accurate as it seems quite high no ?

From reading other posts here, it seems the idle settings also affect the off-idle behaviour...so any advice on what settings to perhaps change would be much appreciated.

Idle fuel trim CO is set at 40.6 and IACV at -1.

 

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The manual recommends a CO of 1.5 at idle, which corresponds to an AFR of 14:1. I found this way too lean for smooth running. It also backfired through the throttle bodies. I think I set mine around 4 - 5 (AFR 12.5 - 13).
Above idle, the standard map is way too rich. You've got to get it closer to a 13:1 AFR or you will strike problems with your exhaust valves down the track.
 
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