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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi Guys,

Bad news for me on the last Sunday ride, I felt that something was wrong in the engine and immediately hit the kill switch and use the clutch.

Been very worried cause I was doing top speed at the time the issue occured
I started to dismant the clutch assembly.
I found two teeth missing from the alternator/starter gear and that all the teeth on the back of the clutch gear assembly that drives the alternator gear were trimed down to their half original thickness.! :doh:
I found two teeth in the oil intact and a lot of debris on the magnetic oil discharge cap.

With so meny teeth missing I will need a dentist not a mechanic.
:rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling:

The crank is ok with no debris and the rest of parts around seems ok exept the oil pump that it's not moving freely. I tried to remove it but it was not posible.
Tomorrow I will remove the water pump and I will try to force the oil pump out by using some force on the oil pump shaft from that side. Also I will remove the oil sump and the gear unit, cerfully clean and inspect all very carefully and continue the damage report.

Up to now I will need a new clutch assembly, alternator gear and oil pump. :spank:
If these are all I will consider my self a very lucky [email protected] :beat:

Has anyone any idea about prices for these parts?

The alternator gear is moving freelly when I hit instantrly the starter but when it's idle it can move only clockwise cause it's mechanicaly joint with the starter motor is this correct?

I know that among us there is a fellow rider that had a similar problem and his engine was replaced (he drove to Benelli factory and picked it up). His bike was under warranty, mine is not but I would appreciate if he could give me any info.

I know that we try to help each other in this forum and I would be grateful for any kind of help and suggestions.

Guys, sorry I failed to make the long story sort, thank you in advance.

Cheers :eek:
 

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Ouch,
Sounds just like my engine :doh: :bawl:
Did you check that the cylinders are ok? I very much doubt that all is ok in there! Take a look in my gallery to se some of the damage found inside. I hope that the teeth didn`t grind away as the oil pump will have pumped bits all around the engine before it got to the filter. I really hope that you are lucky. The oil pump housing is the crankcase,
There is an engine in the UK for sale from an 04 bike. I will try to see if it is still for sale.
YOU NEED TO GO TO YOUR NEAREST DEALER AND GET THEM TO TALK TO THE FACTORY JUST IN CASE THEY WILL DO SOMETHING FOR YOU AS THIS IS A KNOWN FAULT WITH THE PRODUCT.
 

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I found two teeth missing from the alternator/starter gear and that all the teeth on the back of the clutch gear assembly that drives the alternator gear were trimmed down to their half original thickness.!
Sounds like the alternator drive lock washer has loosened & allowed the Z25 gear to move towards the clutch. That's the usual culprit when the intermediate gear is worn that way.
When you pull it apart, check that the M10 bolt has either a lock washer (bent to lock the bolt head), or a belville washer.

except the oil pump that it's not moving freely. I tried to remove it but it was not posible.
Check the pic below. This happened to mine. Grit had found it's way into the oil pump, lodging in the aluminium housing, and scoring the outside of the pump. The ridges formed, made it difficult to extract. I used a couple of levers under the gear. You may be able to use impact on the drive shaft from the water pump side, but take it easy. Use a brass drift, or you'll damage the tang.

The alternator gear is moving freely when I hit instantly the starter but when it's idle it can move only clockwise cause it's mechanicaly joint with the starter motor is this correct?
YEP
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanx Guys for your replies.
Dave I can't find the pictures but if you mean those with the damage on the clutch unit and trip to Italy, I have them.

Cheers :eek:
 

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.. as the oil pump will have pumped bits all around the engine before it got to the filter.
Oil pump feeds directly into the filter, & from there to the rest of the engine, so, as long as the filter wasn't clogged up, and the bypass valve opening, it should have caught all of the debris. So your bearings should be fine.

Any big bits in the sump that found their way into meshing gears, chains and other moving parts could do a lot of damage though. So you do need to check all of these parts. Nothing locked solid, so that's a bonus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi to all,

Last Monday I mounted back the bike and here is the conclusion:

Everything started from the broken lock pins of the M10 bolt washer on the shaft of the alternator gear. (as Errol described)
The oil pump had negligible wear so I didn’t change it.(I didn't have one :p )
I replaced the clutch primary, the disks, Z25 alternator gear and rubber cuchions.
Checked and cleaned the engine very fearfully and found no other problems.
I was surprised that no bits traveled towards the crank gear and piston rod!!:eek:
When the engine is running the clutch rotates anticlockwise so the bits were hitting the top of the engine case and finding the way to the oil sump, thank God the drip oil filter was not blocked 100%.:hiya:
The parts came from a former owner that his bike was stolen and he didn’t manage to install them,so I think I was very lucky with this one.:jig: :jig: :jig:
Guys, does enyone knows the part number for the new (spring )type locking washer for the alternator shaft?
Do you think that in less than 10k km the cuchions become lethal had pieces of rubber due to the exposure to oil? I think that they didn’t change mine in the last service, as they claim.:spank:

So PLEASE EVERYONE do not hesitate to spend one hour to check the condition of the God damn M10 bold and it’s lock washer!!!
Thanx to all for your replies and PMs

Cheeers.
 

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I'm firing on three
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same problem been at dealers since end of july (still under warranty) bloody head on M10 sh**ty bolt :mad: :mad: :mad:
 

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Guys, does enyone knows the part number for the new (spring )type locking washer for the alternator shaft?
This is the part number you are after :- R310032007000
 

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same problem been at dealers since end of july (still under warranty) bloody head on M10 sh**ty bolt :mad: :mad: :mad:
I didn't use the bolt supplied. It was machined down, presumably to give more clearance to the one in the alternator. I used a standard 8.8 high tensile bolt. The clearance was fine, even with the belville washer installed.

jtrianta said:
does anyone know the part number for the new (spring )type locking washer for the alternator shaft?
It's just a standard 10mm Belville washer, as far as I can tell, which should be available just about anywhere, I would have thought.

vtxbrit, can you confirm that?
 

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I'm firing on three
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just logged on glad your sorted, as you have gathered its a special washer with locating tags to the bottom.
Terry
 

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just logged on glad your sorted, as you have gathered its a special washer with locating tags to the bottom.
Terry
Not the new one Terry. Those lugs have been known to break off (jtrianta's). The latest is a bellville washer.

jtrianta said:
I also machined down the bolt.
You probably didn't need to. I didn't.
 
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