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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Good evening you all and thanks for accepting me in this forum.
I'm Marco, from Italy!
Just bought a lovely 2004 red Tornado RS, 17600km, very well maintained - almost mint... -.
I'm new with Benelli..so following your advices, I'll start checking if the bike has any update or mod.
Keep you informed....

Ciao...

Marco
 

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No good with spanners....
MV F3 RC, TNT 899
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Beautiful RS👏👏 enjoy, but make sure you get the updates checked👍

fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thank you all for the warm welcome.

I bought this marvellous bike without trying it and even without starting it. Bike was stopped since beginning of Covid -almost 2 years- and battery was dead. Owner said bike had regular maintenance but he was unaware about all the mods thes bikes needs.

First thing I did when I bring her home, was change the battery with a new one YTZ14S, check oil level and press the start button. She started on the second attempt: she wasn't keeping idle and I had to blip throttle to keep her alive. Anyway, I was super happy. Things were ok and engine noise, even if I didn't even hear a Benelli before, looked ok.

Soon I started to check general condition "under the skirt". I noticed a lot of corrosion on the cylinder head base, with rusted screws and oxidation all around.....not a good start.
Hmmmm...Strange...

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So I checked the Z25 gear under the clutch cover, and no need to say...it is the old one. 5,5mm thick. Luckly, no signs of grinding on the theeths but.....

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...I needed confirmation about the old Z25 gear/shaft also on the alternator side. And I got it! Shaft was kept in place with old lock washer. Added to the to-do list....

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I started searching for a new shaft/gear. As you all perfectly know better than me, research was totally unsuccessful. No way, not even as used part. So, as a last attempt, I went to a former Benelli dealer and look what I found!!!!!! A brand new shaft and gear with original "old" oil filter!!!!!!!
Amazing! Soooo lucky! It was the last gear/shaft kit the dealer had!
Beville washer already ordered and now I only miss the new bolt (do I need a new one, correct?)

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I also noticed a huge amount of corrosion from the water pipes from the cylinder head....

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And I found the guilty! Given a closer look, leak is not from the water pipes but from the welsh plug, incredibly corroded,
Another one thing added on the "to do list".....by the way, is it better to replace it with a brass one or with a stainless steel one, and with loctite or what material to seal it????.....

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In the meantime, I checked the oil sump. All was ok, clean and without dirt or metal parts, even on the magnet pan bolt.

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Oil pan cleaned, ready to install...

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But the best part, oh dear.....is still to come.....

Ciao
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So....we left talking about the best part.....

To remove the welsh plug, I had to remove the water coolant. Good!
At this point, I don't want to add anything else, pictures talks for me....

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Of the 3 liters of coolant required, not even one came out. By the way, capuccino coloured.....
OMG
Water pump is in this condition.
At this point I am asking (well....kindly asking....):
-Is this water pump recoverable? I have no experience on this. Can I just clean pump, rotor, change O-rings and re-install it?
-How can I clean the cooling system? Reading online I find all the possible solutions: winegar, distilled water, cola, dedicated products or bicarbonate.....any suggestion is really appreciated...
-I also found a modified warer pump for our bikes: does it worth the price (around 200€)? Is the big debate between mech pump and elec pump still in progress? -actually I am keen to leave the bike as much as original as possible-......Just asking if anyone mounted this, and if he noticed any improvement...

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Thank you all ....

Next in few days.....now busy at work.

Ciao
Marco
 

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I think the upgraded water pump is worth it. It lowered the temps on my Tre LE. Your current pump looks quite corroded. You'd have to disassemble to see what the condition is. But I'd wager it would be better to rebuilt a used one or get the upgraded one.
 

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Is the big debate between mech pump and elec pump still in progress?
I'd recommend to read Temperature Control

In my opinion only an electrical water pump is a reliable solution for the cooling issue Benelli Tornado 900 & 1130 have and Errol (forum name: engenia) was going that route too (he posted results in forum).
A DIY conversion approach will work or ManiacMotors.de has a complete conversion kit with all required parts.

Did you check cam chain wear status? Details on Cam Chain Tensioner

Good luck with further checks and repairs
Michael
 

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I have the updated water pump on my tnt. Very good piece of kit. Keeps the temp down with no spikes in heat. Also fitted samco hoses.
You're cooling system will need a damn good flush through…… plenty to keep you busy over the winter.

Btw, Bronxhulk on this forum has exact same bike and he lives in Aviano. Not round these parts much nowadays though

fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Here I am.....
Thank you all for the tips!

Yep.....winter will be definetly busy....the more I check, the more I found....I'll need some support from you guys....

For the moment, I'll go for the water pump upgrade. I would like to keep the bike as close as standard as possible.
I'm now disassebling the water pump....situation is as follows....It stinks too....

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I can't get the pump shaft out, tried hammering softly but I am afraid to brake some components: I removed the 2 seeger rings on bearing (engine) side and I removed the mechanical seal (the one with the spring, #12 on schematics) on the fan side.
Is the watre pump shaft coming out inwards (towards engine) or outwards (toward fan)?

Core plug ready to be installed...not brass but hopefully will last for the next 15 years...

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I disconnected the water hoses and....puah...

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Never seen anything similar. I knew the bike was not ridden since beginning of Covid, but I was not expecting this....

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Luckly cilynder head internals looks a bit rusty but without residuals..

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Considering what I found here, I am definetly considering to dismount the radiator and clean it properly......
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
For who is wondering wich is the difference between OEM water fan and upgraded one, here you are....

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Next job in the list, get out the clutch and check it properly...

Ciao
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Today some progress checking the cooling system.....

I managed to dismantle the water pump. By the way, shaft is coming out towards the outside.
Situation is tragic.
All the shaft on the "water" side is totally corroded. No way to let the shaft work with a new water seal.

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I also removed the radiator.
After founding all that s**t on the pipes and pump, I wanted to check it properly.
From outside the conditions were pretty good. Unfortunately, after a deeper check from a professional radiatorist, radiator revealed to be completly clogged from the same material found on the pipes.
The guy said that was most probably due to use of mixed -uncompatible- coolant types and/or leak stop liquids. Result: radiator and water pump to be thrown in the bin....

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Only small good news for today....I managed to replace the core plug...

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Damn....it's becoming expensive.........
 
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Good work. I'm pretty sure I have a spare radiator in my attic. :rolleyes: If you are needing one, drop me a PM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks a lot Laurence, really, really appreciate your offer.

Yesterday I went to the local Benelli dealer to order a new one. I don't actually know the spares availability of Tornado. Dealer told me that is still available as a new spare, so I placed the order (bloody 445€).
I was in doubt if to buy a used one, saving half of the €. But then I thought I might find myself with 2 nice looking radiators....clogged....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Following all your tips, today I checked the Cam chain tensioner.
Spring lenght was 54,5mm and the plunger depth was 48, so according Engenia (I'll never stop thanking you!!) computations, I still have 1,9mm of margin. Good! One item removed from to-do list.

Next, I moved on the thermostat. Obviously, remembering what I found on the past days..., the thermostat manifold was almost 40% clogged. Cleaned successfully with new OR....

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Thermostat needed to be tested. Well....I needed at least to know if it was still working. Manuals says it should open at 75°C and reach 7mm at 90°. I tested with high sophisticated tools....and it opened before water was boiling! Good enough...test passed...

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Then it was time to replace the alternator shaft and the old Z25 gear.
I went again on the alternator side to unscrew the M10 bolt. It was a bit difficult to open the lock washer to get proper space to insert the 17mm socket.....

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Next in the list, pror to extract the alternator shaft, I had to remove the clutch.
First thing I noticed is that the friction plates were all aligned. I read that the last should be placed staggered, also as per Workshop manual...

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Again, expectations were confirmed. I have a '03 stamped but also the "J" letter. It means the intermediate gear is 8mm width. Clutch basket, drum and teeth seems both in good condition...

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But now I have a doubt....
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Is this freeplay and rattling noise normal? Is it normal for a slipper clutch? Cush drive springs doesen't seem broken and they have about 1mm lateral freeplay....

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Senza titolo

I have no experience.....so any help is really appreciated....

Many thanks
 
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