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· Registered
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Good evening you all and thanks for accepting me in this forum.
I'm Marco, from Italy!
Just bought a lovely 2004 red Tornado RS, 17600km, very well maintained - almost mint... -.
I'm new with following your advices, I'll start checking if the bike has any update or mod.
Keep you informed....




· Registered
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thank you all for the warm welcome.

I bought this marvellous bike without trying it and even without starting it. Bike was stopped since beginning of Covid -almost 2 years- and battery was dead. Owner said bike had regular maintenance but he was unaware about all the mods thes bikes needs.

First thing I did when I bring her home, was change the battery with a new one YTZ14S, check oil level and press the start button. She started on the second attempt: she wasn't keeping idle and I had to blip throttle to keep her alive. Anyway, I was super happy. Things were ok and engine noise, even if I didn't even hear a Benelli before, looked ok.

Soon I started to check general condition "under the skirt". I noticed a lot of corrosion on the cylinder head base, with rusted screws and oxidation all around.....not a good start.

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So I checked the Z25 gear under the clutch cover, and no need to is the old one. 5,5mm thick. Luckly, no signs of grinding on the theeths but.....

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...I needed confirmation about the old Z25 gear/shaft also on the alternator side. And I got it! Shaft was kept in place with old lock washer. Added to the to-do list....

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I started searching for a new shaft/gear. As you all perfectly know better than me, research was totally unsuccessful. No way, not even as used part. So, as a last attempt, I went to a former Benelli dealer and look what I found!!!!!! A brand new shaft and gear with original "old" oil filter!!!!!!!
Amazing! Soooo lucky! It was the last gear/shaft kit the dealer had!
Beville washer already ordered and now I only miss the new bolt (do I need a new one, correct?)

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I also noticed a huge amount of corrosion from the water pipes from the cylinder head....

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And I found the guilty! Given a closer look, leak is not from the water pipes but from the welsh plug, incredibly corroded,
Another one thing added on the "to do list" the way, is it better to replace it with a brass one or with a stainless steel one, and with loctite or what material to seal it????.....

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In the meantime, I checked the oil sump. All was ok, clean and without dirt or metal parts, even on the magnet pan bolt.

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Oil pan cleaned, ready to install...

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But the best part, oh still to come.....


· Registered
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So....we left talking about the best part.....

To remove the welsh plug, I had to remove the water coolant. Good!
At this point, I don't want to add anything else, pictures talks for me....

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Of the 3 liters of coolant required, not even one came out. By the way, capuccino coloured.....
Water pump is in this condition.
At this point I am asking (well....kindly asking....):
-Is this water pump recoverable? I have no experience on this. Can I just clean pump, rotor, change O-rings and re-install it?
-How can I clean the cooling system? Reading online I find all the possible solutions: winegar, distilled water, cola, dedicated products or bicarbonate.....any suggestion is really appreciated...
-I also found a modified warer pump for our bikes: does it worth the price (around 200€)? Is the big debate between mech pump and elec pump still in progress? -actually I am keen to leave the bike as much as original as possible-......Just asking if anyone mounted this, and if he noticed any improvement...

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Thank you all ....

Next in few busy at work.


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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Here I am.....
Thank you all for the tips!

Yep.....winter will be definetly busy....the more I check, the more I found....I'll need some support from you guys....

For the moment, I'll go for the water pump upgrade. I would like to keep the bike as close as standard as possible.
I'm now disassebling the water pump....situation is as follows....It stinks too....

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I can't get the pump shaft out, tried hammering softly but I am afraid to brake some components: I removed the 2 seeger rings on bearing (engine) side and I removed the mechanical seal (the one with the spring, #12 on schematics) on the fan side.
Is the watre pump shaft coming out inwards (towards engine) or outwards (toward fan)?

Core plug ready to be installed...not brass but hopefully will last for the next 15 years...

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I disconnected the water hoses and....puah...

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Never seen anything similar. I knew the bike was not ridden since beginning of Covid, but I was not expecting this....

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Luckly cilynder head internals looks a bit rusty but without residuals..

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Considering what I found here, I am definetly considering to dismount the radiator and clean it properly......

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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Today some progress checking the cooling system.....

I managed to dismantle the water pump. By the way, shaft is coming out towards the outside.
Situation is tragic.
All the shaft on the "water" side is totally corroded. No way to let the shaft work with a new water seal.

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I also removed the radiator.
After founding all that s**t on the pipes and pump, I wanted to check it properly.
From outside the conditions were pretty good. Unfortunately, after a deeper check from a professional radiatorist, radiator revealed to be completly clogged from the same material found on the pipes.
The guy said that was most probably due to use of mixed -uncompatible- coolant types and/or leak stop liquids. Result: radiator and water pump to be thrown in the bin....

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Only small good news for today....I managed to replace the core plug...

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Eye Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Bumper's becoming expensive.........
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· Registered
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks a lot Laurence, really, really appreciate your offer.

Yesterday I went to the local Benelli dealer to order a new one. I don't actually know the spares availability of Tornado. Dealer told me that is still available as a new spare, so I placed the order (bloody 445€).
I was in doubt if to buy a used one, saving half of the €. But then I thought I might find myself with 2 nice looking radiators....clogged....

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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Following all your tips, today I checked the Cam chain tensioner.
Spring lenght was 54,5mm and the plunger depth was 48, so according Engenia (I'll never stop thanking you!!) computations, I still have 1,9mm of margin. Good! One item removed from to-do list.

Next, I moved on the thermostat. Obviously, remembering what I found on the past days..., the thermostat manifold was almost 40% clogged. Cleaned successfully with new OR....

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Thermostat needed to be tested. Well....I needed at least to know if it was still working. Manuals says it should open at 75°C and reach 7mm at 90°. I tested with high sophisticated tools....and it opened before water was boiling! Good enough...test passed...

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Then it was time to replace the alternator shaft and the old Z25 gear.
I went again on the alternator side to unscrew the M10 bolt. It was a bit difficult to open the lock washer to get proper space to insert the 17mm socket.....

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Next in the list, pror to extract the alternator shaft, I had to remove the clutch.
First thing I noticed is that the friction plates were all aligned. I read that the last should be placed staggered, also as per Workshop manual...

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Again, expectations were confirmed. I have a '03 stamped but also the "J" letter. It means the intermediate gear is 8mm width. Clutch basket, drum and teeth seems both in good condition...

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But now I have a doubt....


· Registered
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Is this freeplay and rattling noise normal? Is it normal for a slipper clutch? Cush drive springs doesen't seem broken and they have about 1mm lateral freeplay....

Senza titolo

Senza titolo

I have no any help is really appreciated....

Many thanks

· Registered
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
The drum play is fine. The slipper mechanism is the cause, but of no consequence.
The rattle in the basket is the cush springs. Those of the 2003 basket are loose. Some more than others. It is nothing to worry about unless they have worn through the alloy base. (pics here). The later baskets had far less play and were quieter in operation as a consequence.
What a relief. I went through your bible pages but I wasn't sure about chutch cush springs' wear limits.....Grazie Engenia!!!!!

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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Before you throw the radiator into the bin, try cleaning it with Tectaloy Plus HD2 Radiator Flush. Tectaloy is part of the Illinois Toolworks, so it may be available on your side of the globe. It's serious stuff. It's corrosive & not to be touched. You definitely don't want to be leaving it in the radiator for an extended period. It may dissolve your muck, or it may not, but it's worth a try. Tornado radiators are worth saving if at all possible.
From an initial research, it seems that that brand is not available in Europe. Searching for the data sheet, it has 30%-60% of citric acid.
I'll definetly try a good similar product available in EU....


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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Buy a spring off ebay (eg. #222588404129) selecting 0.9x5x300 then cut off 70 mm, filing the ends flat. Cheap as chips and works a treat. Problem solved.
You're amazing....

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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Today I received a second hand water pump. Conditions are definetly good, in particular if compared to the one I took apart...

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I started to remount the pump, with the nice pieces of the upgraded kit.
Result is nice looking and I hope worthy too, useful and functional....
I also took the chance to move the sidestand switch cable routing behind the pump.

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Z25 gear and shaft removed. Actually it took a bit of effort since the gear was quite stuck with the shaft (found thread locker between shaft and gear).
I applied the "Redbaron's method" technique, with M5 rod. It worked very well.
Posted here...
Gideon's Tornado Rebuild - thought you might be...

I compared the sets and I was able to spot all the differences I was expecting to see.
Gear finish... The new one, most likely due to it's one of the latest batches, doesn't have any mark or arrow to align with the shaft.

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Gear thickness....older is thinner.

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Different gear theet shape..

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Single shaft lubrication hole vs 2 holes...

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Not visible, new Z25 gear has a smaller diameter compared to the old one(-1/10mm)

Some new bits arrived.....water manifold was too corroded and....hooled...

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Tomorrow the new radiator should be delivered. I discovered it is manufacured by a well known Austrian motorbike brand....:rolleyes:

Finger crossed.


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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Ceeeeee.....I'll be very proud and honoured to be on your website!!!
Sure, feel free to use the pics on your convenience. If you need higher res just let me know.
Really happy to help the community...
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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Yesterday the new radiator arrived.
Did you know that it's NOT "Made in Italy"?? It's Made in ....Mattinghofen (AUSTRIA), by KTM !!!!

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I also had the possibility to compare small differences in the connection pipes....easier connection.

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I compared inside view of the brand new radiator with the clogged one...
Debris, rust and slime....I could only immagine the heat exchange capabilities of the clogged one...close to 0.

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· Registered
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
It's time to check the airbox, change air filter and verify spark plugs condition.

Even if I documented as much as I could on how to disconnect the fuel pipe -I have no OEM Tool and I am waiting the fuel removal toolkit from China...but I didn't want to wait....- I could not manage to safely disconnect the fuel pipe. So I rotated the tank by 180°.....good enough.

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I verified the drain vent plugs on the lower part of fuel tank. They were dirty, but not clogged.

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Shame on me, I did not pass trough the page on Engenia's website on how to remove I got stuck being unable to unscrew the center screw...
Standard allen wrench is not long enough and the other tool is too thick to enter in the airbox hole.

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So, be advise, a long allen key tool is required -as @Engenia reported on his webpage...-

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Airbox finally out, DMC airfilter arriving...

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I accept bets if airbox water drain mode was done on this Tornado...

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What it really surprise me in this long-er than expected- maintenance restoration is that all the defects I am finding on this Tornado, are well documented on this forum, thanks to the contribution of all of you.
So when I find them, I don't get upset nor surprised, because they are "expected to be there".
Knowledge is power.
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