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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
It's time to check the airbox, change air filter and verify spark plugs condition.

Even if I documented as much as I could on how to disconnect the fuel pipe -I have no OEM Tool and I am waiting the fuel removal toolkit from China...but I didn't want to wait....- I could not manage to safely disconnect the fuel pipe. So I rotated the tank by 180°.....good enough.

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I verified the drain vent plugs on the lower part of fuel tank. They were dirty, but not clogged.

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Shame on me, I did not pass trough the page on Engenia's website on how to remove airbox...so I got stuck being unable to unscrew the center screw...
Standard allen wrench is not long enough and the other tool is too thick to enter in the airbox hole.

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So, be advise, a long allen key tool is required -as @Engenia reported on his webpage...-

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Airbox finally out, DMC airfilter arriving...

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I accept bets if airbox water drain mode was done on this Tornado...

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What it really surprise me in this long-er than expected- maintenance restoration is that all the defects I am finding on this Tornado, are well documented on this forum, thanks to the contribution of all of you.
So when I find them, I don't get upset nor surprised, because they are "expected to be there".
Knowledge is power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Works are going on, slower than expected.

New Z25 bolt 10,9 is now up. I used a special tool, given me by a friend from BenelliBikers, to keep the shaft locked while tightening the bolt. Loctite 648 and 50NM torque! I didn't want regrets using 243.

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I also noted that old alternator drive rubbers had left some part of lining -debris- around that area (at least 3 pieces). It's only rubber, but I wouldn't like to find that parts in my oil sump...

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Being the new bolt head taller than original, I tried a dry coupling (without o-ring) between new shaft bolt and alternator to verify available space. As suggested, I used plasticine...

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I doubled up all the power cables, from the battery "+" to the starter relay, from the battery "-" to a new GND and, even if very short, from starter relay to starter motor. Hope to see in the future the benefits of this upgrade. It costs only few €uros...

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New DNA air filter finally arrived...

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So let's go on the airbox now....
Air box filter lower part already removed.
As readed somewhere, the 3 clamps tightening the intake ducts ar a pain to unscrew -and I bet to screw as well-. So I applied another small mod seen on this forum...
I realized that the threaded part it's a bit shorter than original screw, keeping the clamp already tight even on the loosest position...I'll see when I will remount.

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I've tried to check if the butterflies were correctly seattled, closing properly. Of course they're not. 2 of them are out of center.
But keeping in mind that this is a delicate process where also other competencies are required -use of Tuneecu- I decided, for the moment, to postpone this tuning.

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Another thing on the to-do list was to check the turn indicator system. When I started the bike, none of the 4 indicators were working. Giving as granted that not all the turn indicator lights have been blown togheter, I went to the flasher unit and.....

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Voilà...

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Stop. I have enough. I am going to sleep....

😭
 

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I've tried to check if the butterflies were correctly seattled, closing properly. Of course they're not. 2 of them are out of center.
But keeping in mind that this is a delicate process where also other competencies are required -use of Tuneecu-
while instructions mention "6. Hook up your analyser (Axione or TuneECU) so that you can read the stepper position."
from my view this step is not mandatory for the mechanical adjustment and can be postponed to later time safely.

In other words complete "Throttle Body Synchronisation" while its all disassembled & accessible and worry about using TuneECU at a later time
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
while instructions mention "6. Hook up your analyser (Axione or TuneECU) so that you can read the stepper position."
from my view this step is not mandatory for the mechanical adjustment and can be postponed to later time safely.

In other words complete "Throttle Body Synchronisation" while its all disassembled & accessible and worry about using TuneECU at a later time
Thank you Michael.
Reading the instructions, step 21 says to use analyser to adjust rhe "manual adaptation of the stepper between 30 and 40" and step 22 says to remove manometer ans analyzer. So it looks to me that this job has to be done with TuneEcu otherwise everything will be screwed-up....
Is that correct?
 

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job has to be done with TuneEcu otherwise everything will be screwed-up....
Is that correct?
The process description was improved last time 14 Oct 2022!
It's certainly greatly optimized from the version I used last 2 years ago.
If I remember correctly, step 21 did not exist at that time, still decent results have been achieved.
Errol is likely in a better position to make a recommendation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
The process description was improved last time 14 Oct 2022!
It's certainly greatly optimized from the version I used last 2 years ago.
If I remember correctly, step 21 did not exist at that time, still decent results have been achieved.
Errol is likely in a better position to make a recommendation.
If he will not reply here, I'll PM him. To be sure.... Thanks Michael.
 

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New Z25 bolt 10,9 is now up. ... Loctite 648 and 50Nm torque! I didn't want regrets using 243.
243 is fine. It's never let go on me in that position, but if you wanted to go over the top, 263 would have been plenty.
648 is for bearings, or extreme conditions, like the front sprocket, where there is a threaded spline to lock. You hope you never, ever want to undo it again, but if you twist the shaft (it's been done!) or break the starter one-way clutch (it's happened), it will have to be undone for repairs. Normally you would heat the bolt with a flame to weaken 648 .... good luck with that.
I doubled up all the power cables, from the battery "+" to the starter relay, from the battery "-" to a new GND and, even if very short, from starter relay to starter motor..
The cable from the starter relay to the starter can be halved in length, at least, rather than doubled up. That will halve its resistance, which is what you are after.
 

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The process description was improved last time 14 Oct 2022!
It's certainly greatly optimized from the version I used last 2 years ago.
If I remember correctly, step 21 did not exist at that time, still decent results have been achieved.
I've been improving the sync procedure over many years as I became more familiar with it, but only recently updated the web page. Originally I followed JohnnyO's suggestion to keep the throttles open slightly, but found that that was counter productive. He talked about "off idle lurch", but I've never experienced it on Nell.
It took me some time to realise that most butterflies weren't concentric to the throats and couldn't seal as a result. It's a bit of a fiddle to get them right, but not difficult. I think I've only seen one set sealed properly from the factory. It's critical to get them sealed at idle so that the ECU/Stepper can control the idle as designed. Any air that slips past makes it more difficult for the ECU to do its job. It assumes that the stepper has complete control. In the extreme, and I've seen it, the stepper remains completely closed and the idle speed is uncontrolled, and all over the place.

BTW, if you don't set the manual adaptation of the stepper to 30 - 40 (Sagem! Walbro is different I believe), the engine will be very prone to stalling as the revs drop to idle. It's really quite marked. A simple blip of the throttle will cause it to stall if the stepper is not set to those numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
243 is fine. It's never let go on me in that position, but if you wanted to go over the top, 263 would have been plenty.
648 is for bearings, or extreme conditions, like the front sprocket, where there is a threaded spline to lock. You hope you never, ever want to undo it again, but if you twist the shaft (it's been done!) or break the starter one-way clutch (it's happened), it will have to be undone for repairs. Normally you would heat the bolt with a flame to weaken 648 .... good luck with that.
Job is done, I really hope -too- to not have to undo it again....finger crossed.

The cable from the starter relay to the starter can be halved in length, at least, rather than doubled up. That will halve its resistance, which is what you are after.
I read your posts, I did like that because I did not want to modify the original cable. So I built the second one almost half in lenght of the original.
Main idea is till to have the bike as much as possible backward compatible to original.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Any air that slips past makes it more difficult for the ECU to do its job. It assumes that the stepper has complete control. In the extreme, and I've seen it, the stepper remains completely closed and the idle speed is uncontrolled, and all over the place.

BTW, if you don't set the manual adaptation of the stepper to 30 - 40 (Sagem! Walbro is different I believe), the engine will be very prone to stalling as the revs drop to idle. It's really quite marked. A simple blip of the throttle will cause it to stall if the stepper is not set to those numbers.
So I will definetly do the throttle sync as per your procedure and quickly search for TuneEcu cable.....
 

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So I will definetly do the throttle sync as per your procedure and quickly search for TuneEcu cable.....
Yes. I followed that recently on Gideon's Tornado. Works fine. You will have to think a bit about what is holding a butterfly open - maybe one of the stops, another butterfly, the cable, or something else - so pay attention.
If you have any ability with a crimp tool, it's far far quicker to make the TuneECU cable yourself, providing that you can source the AMP Superseal 1.5 plug & pins. Farnell will have them.
Any advice regarding the question: "Could this step be done after the manual throttle sync is complete and all parts assembled back in their place?"
Absolutely. You don't need access to the throttles at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Slow progress....
Rattling clutch was really annoyng to me. I had the option to close my eyes and ears and install it as it is or...I went for the second option: I brought it to the former Benelli workshop machanic, close to home....He wasn't surprised at all ..."Uff....again..." he said...
The clutch drive wear is as expected from the noise.

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Option to get a new clutch is waaay too much expensive now, so we agreed to change the clutch springs. He already did many times this job in the past -I have to trust him- and he added that engine was built from Moto Morini, so it has many parts in common.

So, waiting for the clutch rebuilt, I went on with other easier jobs....
Airbox drain mod done...

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..and a bit of cleaning....which never hurts...

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Butterflies now are registered and they are now closing all the same all around. By the way, 2 of them were also off-center, and needed coaxial alignment.

I have now a doubt about butterfly stop screws position....these ones....

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It's not clear what I am aiming for.....

To be sure that all 3 butterflies were fully closed, I touched -read....unscrew- all 3 screws.
Following this,
Throttle Synch
on step 12 it says "When all are grabbing the same (the butterflies), screw the centre stop back to closed, using the strip as a feeler. If you still have stops 1 & 3, reset these as well. At this stage the sync will be close."

Just to clarify the sequence of the actions: when all the butterflies close properly, screw the center stop screw first (the one in the picture above) until there's no freeplay on the throttle spindle -so until paper strip feeler grips when fully closed-; then repeat the same for screw #1 and #3.

QUESTION:
Final result has to be that all the butterflies close properly and there's no freeplay on all 3 the stop screws. Is that correst?
 

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