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Unplugged it, bike still runs like shit. Engine light is on. I think it’s fried the new ECU :(
The solenoid plug is with the injector plug connectors, so five leads from the loom, the two pin and three injector plugs and the temp sensor plug (brown one )
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Quick update, the bike is back at Corse, so Ant can work his magic. Which is a little odd for me, as I’m used to working on my bikes myself. I figure this one needs to be sorted out by one of the best in the business though.

We’re currently investigating the possibility of getting one, or both of the ECU’s repaired. If not, I have a couple of options for a replacement, so we’ll see what pricing comes back.

While she’s in the shop, I’m going to ask Ant to check out the stepper motor and reset the TPS in the hope that it fixes the severe overfuelling, and upgrade the battery leads to the starter motor. And remove the exhaust valve solenoid as I’m fairly certain that it’s that stupid piece of shit that’s causing things to go pop.

Any other ideas on what to look for?
 

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Quick update, the bike is back at Corse, so Ant can work his magic. Which is a little odd for me, as I’m used to working on my bikes myself. I figure this one needs to be sorted out by one of the best in the business though.

We’re currently investigating the possibility of getting one, or both of the ECU’s repaired. If not, I have a couple of options for a replacement, so we’ll see what pricing comes back.

While she’s in the shop, I’m going to ask Ant to check out the stepper motor and reset the TPS in the hope that it fixes the severe overfuelling, and upgrade the battery leads to the starter motor. And remove the exhaust valve solenoid as I’m fairly certain that it’s that stupid piece of shit that’s causing things to go pop.

Any other ideas on what to look for?
I would check both Ecu,s first , if only to find the damage to the second one is the same as your original.
If it is, then you know the wiring connection to the solenoid caused the second failure. that is assuming your
second one is blown.
You need to be sure ,and find that fault first, it will become a "money pit" if it eats Ecu number 3.

I wish you well, hopefully your second ecu is not buggered ..
 

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I agree with Pete it would be a shame to kill another ecu. But you said it was ok until you plugged in the solenoid. I wouldn’t plug or unplug anything live on this ecu they are flaky flaky flaky
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
And just heard back... it's definitely the ECU again. While I'm able to get them repaired, I've decided that I just want the damn thing back on the road! So hopefuly I'll be able to order another ECU in the next few days.

Not 100% on what's causing them to die, though we suspect the exhaust valve solenoid shorting. I'm determined to get to the bottom of it.

List of things to sort out
  • Electrical - work out what's blowing up ECU's
  • Battery - Upgrade to 16mm cables (need lengths)
  • Stepper - Check operation, replace if necessary
  • TPS - Check and reset
 

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Goofy et al,
Where in WA is a specialist (Benelli) engine rebuild shop ?
Since getting some time to take a look at this 2006 1130 Sport I fear that something "bad" has happened to the engine. It doesn't feel like a seizure, possibly something as jammed in the engine or ancilliary equipment. Before trying to start the engine I turned it over by hand...tried to that is. It turned reluctantly about quarter of a turn then stopped with an audible clunk. I cannot turn it anti clock since the bolt unwinds. I cannot turn the engine in 6 th gear because the clutch slips (plenty of free play and pressure at the clutch lever and throw out pivot on left side. You can see the pack move through the oil filler). I was wondering if something like the alternator drive has failed and jammed.?
Anyone got any suggestions before I either start work on it or scrap it ?
Input appreciated.
I am totally unfamiliar with these particular machines
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Goofy et al,
Where in WA is a specialist (Benelli) engine rebuild shop ?
Since getting some time to take a look at this 2006 1130 Sport I fear that something "bad" has happened to the engine. It doesn't feel like a seizure, possibly something as jammed in the engine or ancilliary equipment. Before trying to start the engine I turned it over by hand...tried to that is. It turned reluctantly about quarter of a turn then stopped with an audible clunk. I cannot turn it anti clock since the bolt unwinds. I cannot turn the engine in 6 th gear because the clutch slips (plenty of free play and pressure at the clutch lever and throw out pivot on left side. You can see the pack move through the oil filler). I was wondering if something like the alternator drive has failed and jammed.?
Anyone got any suggestions before I either start work on it or scrap it ?
Input appreciated.
I am totally unfamiliar with these particular machines
Thanks.
No specialist shops anymore in WA mate, there are rumours of an Ex-Benelli tech residing in the eastern suburbs who only takes on specialist work, but I have been unable to locate this mystical being.

I’ve dealt with Ant from Corse Motorcycles for quite some years now, he’s the guy looking after my TnT. Might be worth dropping him a line.
 

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Hi,

Sorry to hear your woe,s
I would start by stripping the bike to have a look.
Tank off, plugs out , inspect what they are like, drain the oil, look at the sump plug for shrapnel , take off the clutch cover and check in there for obvious signs of chewed metal, take the sump off and look in there for sludge and shiny bits.
If nothing obviously a miss, its top end off cam chain off ,cams out, head off.Then you can see what is going on and spin the engine.
It is all possible with a bit of mechanical knowledge and common sense. You can do all this with the engine in the bike.
Trust me, it is possible , even barrels off, con rods out and pistons changed.
Beware the pistons are matched to the barrel sets, so you need the same pistons as marked on the barrels (
a b or c).
Have fun , its only when you have a hole in the engine , its a scrapper.
 

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Hi ,
As freeatlast says, these bikes are pretty easy to work on .
all you need is some tools and a bit of time .
There’s loads of help here on tap .
First place to look is inside clutch casing ( gasket is Re usable).
Obviously drain oil etc as above ..
 

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Hi,

Sorry to hear your woe,s
I would start by stripping the bike to have a look.
Tank off, plugs out , inspect what they are like, drain the oil, look at the sump plug for shrapnel , take off the clutch cover and check in there for obvious signs of chewed metal, take the sump off and look in there for sludge and shiny bits.
If nothing obviously a miss, its top end off cam chain off ,cams out, head off.Then you can see what is going on and spin the engine.
It is all possible with a bit of mechanical knowledge and common sense. You can do all this with the engine in the bike.
Trust me, it is possible , even barrels off, con rods out and pistons changed.
Beware the pistons are matched to the barrel sets, so you need the same pistons as marked on the barrels (
a b or c).
Have fun , its only when you have a hole in the engine , its a scrapper.
Thanks ( and Rick too ). What you outline is usual procedure for me as well. I usually analyse oil and cut open and wash out filters then "pan for gold". In this case, unfortunately, it looks like the oil has been recently changed, haven't taken off the filter yet. I've changed rings and big end bearings in many DOHC bikes with the engine in. I bought this bike knowing that there would be time and work to get it back to a standard I am happy with. What I had not budgeted for was a major engine rebuild. I am trying to find out what other possibilities could cause the lock up problem so I can look at all the options.
I want to avoid a stripping the engine and ending up with boxes of parts, then trying to sell these bits and rest of the bike....usually get scrap price. So, before any move is made to open up a Pandora's box, I'd like to see wot's wot.Example, the fuel pump was rolling around the tank because the pump mounting lugs had been broken off. How ? The steel jackets on the stick coils have been rusted off but the coils have continuity and all have the same impedance reading ? Of course, being a stolen / recovered bike all the locks are buggered. There's a dent in the rear rim, fixable, maybe. One fork seal has been leaking but it's only a few bucks and an hour to fix. Apart from that, the engine and the new "boomerang" radiator fairings to buy, the rest of the bike is in quite good shape.
Question is not whether or not the estimated rebuild will exceed the market value but by how much ?
Keep the comments coming, lotsa thanks.
JMB
 

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First thing is don’t panic. I am thinking as above clutch area first as it shouldn’t slip when trying to turn the engine. Ala clutch gear and z25 shaft, when you have it open you can easily see the Rh Conrod and cam chain. Clutch cover is easy to remove and replace with a smear of sealant.
 

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Hey GBo, I'm not in a panic !! I'm not under any pressure to work on this bike. Regarding the clutch.....I turned the engine crank through, around, 20 degrees of rotation with a 17mm socket. It was very stiff but it moved until it went "clunk", metal blocked by metal.I tried to turn the engine anti clock but that just unscrewed the bolt in the crank. So I put the bike in 6th gear and pulled it backwards. No resistance as clutch slipped.So I put the bike on a paddock stand and turned the back wheel by hand. Either forward or backwards the engine would not turn over because the clutch simply slipped.Checked the clutch mechanism...plenty of spring pressure, all lever clearances OK. View through the oil filler hole shows clutch pack appears to separate when clutch pulled in and seats back before lever throw is finished. I intend to open the RHS cover after I drain and check oil and filter for metal nasties.
I am hoping that 'something' has been incorrectly installed or is causing a minor interference but since I don't know these bikes I am just feeling my way with help from this forum.
All opinions appreciated
Thanks JMB
 

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Sorry wasn’t implying you were panicking. Just that most things can be sorted. You can take clutch cover off without draining oil by leaning the bike over. but The fact the clutch is slipping I would start that end. Anything you need to know just ask there are some great guys n gals on here.
 

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Sorry wasn’t implying you were panicking. Just that most things can be sorted. You can take clutch cover off without draining oil by leaning the bike over. but The fact the clutch is slipping I would start that end. Anything you need to know just ask there are some great guys n gals on here.
Not a problem !.Thanks for the offer, on behalf of y'all to assist, it looks like I may need some of that assist if the rebuild goes ahead as the recommended and only European bike specialist in Western Australia "Corse Motorcycles" has just replied to my enquiry saying that they are not interested in rebuilding a Benelli engine 1130 "at this time".Goofy has his Tornado with Corse ATM ( I understand ? ) If the engine needs reboring, crank grind, that will be prohibitively expensive and would be better to buy a used engine from overseas.
Anyway, thanks mucho to all, see how we go.
Cheers
 

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Hi Red 57, This the sort of thing I'm hoping has happened. When you analyse the situation and trace what may have happened you gotta ask yourself whether, whatever caused the problem, happened whilst the bike was being ridden and if so what damage is done. I don't think it happened when the bike was parked up for the night ! What did the previous owner know / suspect when he started to work on the engine and got as far as removing the plugs and coils before he stopped ? Hoo Nose ? Sweet mystery of life........I might consult the ouija board for paranormal advice.
Anyway, plan is to open the filter and check for nasties, leave the bike on the side stand, open clutch cover and take a decko. We shall see.
Thanks for the input.
Cheers.
 

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Not a problem !.Thanks for the offer, on behalf of y'all to assist, it looks like I may need some of that assist if the rebuild goes ahead as the recommended and only European bike specialist in Western Australia "Corse Motorcycles" has just replied to my enquiry saying that they are not interested in rebuilding a Benelli engine 1130 "at this time".Goofy has his Tornado with Corse ATM ( I understand ? ) If the engine needs reboring, crank grind, that will be prohibitively expensive and would be better to buy a used engine from overseas.
Anyway, thanks mucho to all, see how we go.
Cheers
HI,
Out with the spanners then, it wont take long , a good couple of hours and you will have an idea what is wrong.
I have seen quite a few horrors, all are repairable. There are secondhand parts on the market as you can see by the wrecked Trek, although I think that one as a donor may have some casings damaged. Looks like you would have to cut the frame apart to get the engine out.
It may well be the damage is not as bad as you fear. The 1130 Trek /TNT parts are interchangeable.
There are Cranks , rods, pistons, barrels, casings, heads etc on the secondhand market . I have seen complete engines with ancillaries. The demand is not high for these parts because very few of us have the courage to rebuild them .
Have you put a battery on it and looked at what the clocks display Klms covered ?

Best of luck , be positive, until you find a disaster.
Repair is the way to go, if you break it , you will probably find the demand for parts is relatively low, and will take a long time to disperse the bits.
 

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As other have suggested, i would be whipping off the clutch cover in the first instance. Could be the z25 shaft has sheared/jammed up? (snapped on my 900 at tickover, fortunatley did not lock up and no other harm done). Upgraded parts available.
Least thats quick and easy to check ! Best of luck
 
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