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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New electric pump in place. And it was easily done.
Wrote a long post on how but lost 3/4 of it when trying to add photos.
Will try again if any interest. Want to change blue hose for red.
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Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exhaust Vehicle Automotive fuel system
Toy Bicycle part Personal protective equipment Rim Metal
pump setup
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Beautiful job.
I see you simply dismantled the oem water pump and used it as a plug.
Yes, the rubber bracket is beveled backward to allow clearance from front sprocket guard for hose. check out myproformancecar.com.au. Just talked to Mat, he is trying to find me a red 90 degree hose in England. The also have the parts for conversion.
 

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I have a Davies pump that I will be putting on a VFR750 race build. Plugging the gearing for the OEM pump is a trick. There is some welch plug that should fit, but welding the original shut is a nice idea too.

From what I read, you shouldn't control the pump rpm based on temperature. Just let it work at the same speed all the time. The fancy trick is adding a switch to run the pump after you shut engine off to keep the coolant flowing on extra hot days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have a Davies pump that I will be putting on a VFR750 race build. Plugging the gearing for the OEM pump is a trick. There is some welch plug that should fit, but welding the original shut is a nice idea too.

From what I read, you shouldn't control the pump rpm based on temperature. Just let it work at the same speed all the time. The fancy trick is adding a switch to run the pump after you shut engine off to keep the coolant flowing on extra hot days.
When I set out to change to a E-Pump the goal was to not permanently change the various parts of the original pump. Parts are very hard to find and can be expensive. Instead I sealed off the pump using o- rings and a seal off the original pump. All parts had to be easy to get, e.g. auto accessories shops, hardware. You get the idea.
As for not controlling pump R.P.M. I think you are right under some circumstances. In theory the Benelli I have will only be used on warm to hot days. Spirited rides through the hills stopping for a bite to eat or bike meets all to show it off.
As to cooling the bike after stopping. I’m Woking on it.
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From what I read, you shouldn't control the pump rpm based on temperature. Just let it work at the same speed all the time.
If you are using an EBP15 or 25, running it at full speed makes sense. The extra power needed by the pump can be supplied by the alternator. It has a fair bit to spare.
When the thermostat is closed, the pump pressure is higher, but not extreme, so it can run continually, like the OEM pump. There is a bleed hole, so there is still some coolant moving through the engine. A bypass circuit would be good to stop hot spots and reduce vane pressure, but the Tre's don't have it, unfortunately.

I'm using an EBP40 though, which in most cases, it's 35 lpm is overkill. At 4.6A max it needs just over 60W from the alternator. The OEM pump moves about 15 lpm max, so that's what I've been running the EBP40 at most of the time. That takes only a couple of amps and around 30W. At night, on high beam, the alternator has no problem keeping up, despite running high and low beam together - I rewired it to get a better spread.
My controller will turn the fans on if the temperature climbs above the thermostat fully open temperature, and if it continues to climb, then run the pump at full speed, to increase the heat exchange in the radiator. This is unlikely to happen at night, so the alternator isn't unduly stressed.
I've proven that the engine will not overheat when the fans are on & the pump is running at full speed, even when riding at 10 kph for an hour.

Currently working on:-
  • If the engine is turned off while the pump is running at full speed, the controller will keep it running at that speed until the temperature falls below the thermostat fully open temperature. I'll probably put a time limit on that to save the lithium battery. It doesn't have a lot of reserve capacity.
  • The controller also won't run the pump before the engine has been running for a few seconds - to save the battery.
  • It will have a few other tricks up its sleeve as well, but I'll tell you about them when they are proven.
 
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