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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. Ive been clocking up some miles recently and have noticed something. When I start the bike up from cold the right side (assuming the clutch basket) rattles or atleast I think thats what it is. I can only describe it as the sound of a duc dry clutch only not as loud. Once it warms up the noise goes a bit and theres been no lose in power, surges or funny clutch action. However speaking to a local benelli dealer they said its prob the clutch basket and there prone for going. Has anyone else suffered a problem like this or has similar symptoms?? Im a little worried on riding until I know for sure, but I've booked to go Isle of Man in June and Silverstone end of May :\

Has anyone else had their 6000 mile service??? I was told its 8 hours labour!!! And a mortgage maybe required to pay the bill :p

Dean
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
No bike for me

Ah seems the problem was a little worse than I first thought. Something to do with the clutch. Was stuck 70 miles from home today...oh the joy. Still my fault should have had it checked.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not sure if Im allowed to post pics of the bike in progress. Ive stripped her of all her clothes today including sump, clutch cover etc. The sump plug is magnetic and picked up a good majority of the damaged parts - it was full of metal and swarth (excuse the spelling).

Ill try post a pic of the knackered bit once ive got it off. If anyone develops a loud rattling right side get it repaired - it;ll last about 1000 miles tops.

There are a few other symptoms as well as the rattling. The bike was struggle to engage 1st when in neutral. Also the bike can lurch forward even when the clutch is in. I didnt get these but after speaking to a benelli guru he said these also happen.

Dean
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Dean100yz

Can you kindly give us a bit more details as to which part/s were damaged and if possible what the analysis is.

Thanks
Tax
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sure no worrys. Im 90% through what bits I think broke on the bike. Im finishing it off tonight. So far the main bit was on pg 155/6 of the workshop manual section 5.8.7/8 I think its called the primary clutch bell unit. Theres 3 gears running on the inside of this (the other side holds the clutch plates) The centre gear as ripped itself to pieces. I have some pics but Im not sure how to put them on this site

Dean
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have some pics but Im not sure how to put them on this site
Just go to a site such as imageshack Dean and you'll see this part of the screen..



Keep the options ticked like I have and hit the browse button. Once you've found the Image/s that you were looking for then just press the 'host it' button. A couple of seconds later you should see something like this ....



I then click and drag to get the part in the 'Direct link to image' highlighted, right click and select copy. Pop yourself onto these forums and click on the 'image' button on the left hand side (when you're in a thread), right click and select 'copy'. You can always do a preview first just to make sure that you've done it right.

Hope this helps

Al
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cheers Big Al. I'll go on my home PC tonight and send it. Your bikes just packed up again so I see. Can you explain a little more exactly what it did 'cos it sounds a bit like mine...lots of rattles. Got louder and louder then it wouldnt start??


Dean
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
:eek :eek :eek

Whoa!!! That doesn't look good Dean. Hope you get back on the road soon buddy. After speaking to Brian at KJM today I have a feeling that it might be something similar to your problem Dean but not as severe.
Keep us updated with the work in progress buddy;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oks so far in repairing and prepairing the bike for the beginning of June Isle of Man I have done as follows;

Stripped her of all her clothing
Removed clutch cover, plates & damaged basket
Removed Clutch Bell gear (well thats what KJM call it??)
Taken of the Rocker covers - Havn't yet set the valve clearances
Removed and thoroughly cleaned the airbox - the crap that builds on that airflow sensor is mental, surely it cant work correctly?? Still have to clean the foam filter
Removed the plugs which were a good colour but pretty corroded before the thread - not a worry but shows water gets down there
Adjusted all 3 air screws on the throttle bodies to 2 turns out (from being fully turned in). I was recommended this by Red Dog in Kent, its meant to cure the stalling/missing at tickover.
Removed the sump, the magnetic sump bolt had loads of bits of metal and the oil after only 3000 mile was filthy (had shinny metal bits in it too hmm...
Flushed the antifreeze, im not so sure about the colour, i dont know if its just alot of crap or oil but havnt checked yet in a clear container to tell whether its seperating. If so I think I'll give up!!
Removed both front and rear wheels. Sending front wheel away monday to have discs trued by Hagon Shocks in london - £30 what a bargain (if its a good job)...2 week wait on that one and replacing the tyres with a nice new set of Pirelli Dragon Corsa Evo's SC1 and SC2 :D
Erm think thats it so far. Jet washed all the inside of the plastics and catch tray (well chain oil catch tray). It was like paste but after a good clean with Motul moto wash it came off.
I've ordered all the parts/bits and if all goes well fingers crossed should be done within the next 3 weeks.

Ive got a few pics i took on the phone to give you an idea, its err organised chaos

img168.imageshack.us/my.p...1204zh.jpg

img168.imageshack.us/my.p...1217aq.jpg

img168.imageshack.us/my.p...1228cp.jpg

img168.imageshack.us/my.p...1231oq.jpg

img168.imageshack.us/my.p...1244ft.jpg

img168.imageshack.us/my.p...1257et.jpg

Chow for now
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ohhhh sh.t<img border=0 src="http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif" />

It looks pretty much the same as the problem I had. In my case Benelli decided to give me a new engine.

So If you aren't sure. Check your clutch basket<img border=0 src="http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/embarassed.gif" />
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Whoa, I wish I had the confidence to do something like that:( I can barely wire a plug:eek: You must be saving yourself a fortune there buddy;)

Are you going over to the TT yourself Dean or are you going with a bunch of mates?
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah Saloe think its the same thing that happened to you. Its the only real weakness on the Tre engine...I think...

Hey Big Al, yeah I reckon its pushing on 4 figures. I was quoted 8 hours labour (my arse) to do a 6k service cos of the valves etc. If I had the parts there and then I reckon less than half and thats including stripping all the fairings off and back on again. And I'm a right fussy bugger so everything is greased, cleaned torqued up and loctited (where needed).
Depends where you go but I was quoted around £450 for the service by red dog and the part is £500 RRP. I've managed to get all the servicing bits ie oil, filter, plugs etc for around £50ish and the part hurt a bit but still managed £286 + 10p&p from KJM with 35% discount. I did try for a freebie from benelli but cos its 2years and 6 months they wernt having none of it.

As for the Isle of Man it was meant to be 3 of us but my father in law had to pull out last minute due to work etc so at the mo its just 2 of us although we've got a 3 bike van and 3 spaces b&b hotel etc. Worse case it'll be just us 2 but I've asked a few mates to see if they can get the time off. Would be good to see you down there and anyone else from this site in the UK. We leave on the 2nd and come back on the 9th.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Right can anyone help. Just measured the shim gaps today and guess what...there out after just 5800 miles!! Anyways I need a few different size shims but seem to be struggling to get hold of any from KJM, Red Dog or 3 cross. Its only on the exhaust, not suction. Tolerances are meant to me between .30 and .35. Cyclinder 3 (going from left to right like the plugs) is a .40 & .40, cyclinder 2 is cool but cyclinder 1 is also out with a .20 & .30

Can anyone point me in the right direction??

Dean

ps all the other parts are ordered hopefully should be out on the tarmac asap...and the weather is so nice mid 20's all week
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: Valve Clearances

Dean,
I wouldn't bother with the 0.40's. Give them time, they'll close up! All that will happen is you'll have 0.05 less opening, and the timing will be slightly off. JohnnyO could tell you just how bad the timing aspect would be, but I seriously doubt whether you could notice the loss in power.

The 0.20 bears fixing though. It will only get worse. Fortunately, if you can't procure one, all you need to do is take it out, and have it surface ground by 0.15. As long as it is hardened properly (not just the top 0.01), this will work fine. I used to do this to a Fiat 124 Coupe, many years ago. If it's not deep hardened, (and the grinder will be able to tell you this if he is looking for it), send it to an induction hardening shop. Won't cost much.

Comments anyone?
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: Valve Clearances

Engenia your a star :hat thats something i wasn't aware of. I'll make some calls today and see what I can muster. Cheers again. Its the only forum I've ever been on but my god there's some helpful guys on here

Dean
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Oks all the parts turned up today so I've been a busy boy gettin it all back together.

I couldnt for love nor money get the shims in time (Ive had to get this all ready as Im off on the 2nd) but as you mentioned enginia the .40's are probably gonna close up + its on the exhaust side anyways (intake would be a little more concerning). The only one thats a bugger is the .20 but i'll do that when I get back (alot of work really but it needs to be done).
I have only two worry's which Im sorting as we speak. The first being that when I put back on the clutch bell, basket, plates etc I had to air gun tighten the centre nut - not thinking I cranked the engine over which was all set in position (TDC) as I've taken the cam chain, lobes etc off. I may need to get a tool to check all the tolerances now for this & the second is a pin bearing piece has come out of the left side of the bike - I removed the clutch actuator and alternator but thats it. When I put it all back, checking greasing etc I couldnt see/find anything missing or wrong and all seems to be smooth so its a mystery to me. I was told that on this type of bearing it wouldnt matter considerably as there are no high stressed items which have been removed but its still damn right strange.
Ive taken some pics of the oil catch tray removed which I'll upload soon. The amount of metal bits lodged on the mesh is scary.

If al goes well with just one more small delivery of teh plugs and a couple of missing bolts that I found when I stripped her down she shoudl be running (fingers crossed) by mid week. I just hope I've done it all ok!!!

Oh last thing if anyone is around the South East area (UK) I know some fella who is literally a top top bloke in anything to do with benelli's. If you need any parts, servicing etc give me a email and I'll give him your number

Cheers

Dean
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Shes Alive!!! Ah a sound I have missed very much.

Got a few pics from last post I sent about oil mesh posted below

img222.imageshack.us/img2...1280bq.jpg

img106.imageshack.us/img1...1299or.jpg

I also read a bit in engenia's home page about the tilt switch bypass being bypassed on his bike and the safety concern. Well it seems the recall on all the bikes was exactly this. The picture below may not mean anything to some of you on here (sorry trying to be polite) but is a picture of the front of the airbox (left of pic). The box on the front is the tilt mechanism. To the right of the pic you can see a bunch of wires. One lot of those pins are meant to plug into the box but as a 'safety recall' has been bypassed so the box so to speak does didly squat. I can see the theory as they were meant to play up when people leant the bike over far ie trackdays, fast road etc but as Engengia said on his site its something that should really be connected. I have temporarily removed it completly to save weight...who am I kidding seriously I took it off and blanked the holes as I havn't the time to be fiddling but when I get back in 2 weeks I'll be connecting that up in the new position (as Engenia's bike). Some of you might not care but you'd half be pis*ed if you had a low slide and the throttle stayed open --- bye bye engine!!

img125.imageshack.us/img1...1279mi.jpg

On a better note, I had the latest map fitted today with one of those friggin huuuge mobile phone gadgets. 6034 map with all the settings for the Arrow race can + a load of adjustments to the stepper etc etc all to make her run a little sweeter. The whole 2 turns out on each screw of the throttle body hasn't seemed to cure the occasional momentry cut out at tickover so back to the drawing board for me on that one.

Anways no more technical/boring crap from me. I shall keep this site free of my rambling now and continue to butt in with everyone elses normal conversations

Dean :b
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Dean, try 1 turn out on the throttle body screws, remember 2 turns is with the standard exhaust. also have you checked the body butterfly settings (normally set up with a digital flow meter)........... engine off use the tickover screw to make no3 open enough to let say a 0.15mm feeler in (measure centre of flap riders side) then work your way across no2 then no1 adjusting the synchro screws until they all feel exactly the same before you start make sure the tickover screw is not allowing the engine to rev to high hey presto she should run smoother.:)
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
try 1 turn out on the throttle body screws, remember 2 turns is with the standard exhaust
I didnt know that so will try 1 turn out (from fully in)

also have you checked the body butterfly settings (normally set up with a digital flow meter
I had the 'Texa 2000' Sagem mapping unit plugged in which also sorts out a few other things but to be honest that bit was a little beyond me :rolleyes

She's ticking over at around the same as before - once warm around 1300 +- 50 or so but it sounds like it cuts out for a split sec then runs again, it doesnt normally stall and is quite hard to explain but I can only assume its what you've said. Adjusting the 'flap' should be easy enough so I'll have a play today

Cheers
 
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