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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, to all .
Well I finally got the Nelli in the garage to check the mods or upgrades. Bit of a mixed bag really, some good news some not so good. Thought I'd share the experience with you as follows,

ALTERNATOR- removed found to be fine , drive bolt tight and in good order, cush drives slight wear, will do until next service in 2000 miles. (Bugger to get back in though, dollops of grease did the trick).

OIL/FILTER- Changed , filter ok, oil a bit grey and the magnetic sump plug had a bit of a fuzzy hairdo, nothing of real concern though.

CLUTCH- Stripped and checked, good news is despite being way out of adjustment, it is in perfect condition, with no obvious flaws. Bad news is that it has a 6mm middle gear on the back. All gear are in A1 condition.
Gonna have to think about that one.


CLUTCH ARM- Old alloy type, and a very poor angle of pull, no wonder they dont work well, to be changed.

NEUTRAL SWITCH- Stripped and all ok, despite sticking on occasionaly, guess I'll have to live with that.

CAM CHAIN TENSIONER- Stripped and checked, all good, using Errols site calculation, 3.5 mm difference, so no concerns there, (got to be the weediest camchain I've ever seen no wonder its noisy)

DASH RESET- Only when its got low battery, so again a live with I think.

HIGH BEAM BULB HOLDER- Fell apart on stripping, mod needs to be done on that. ( High beam only works when it feels like it, power to bulb, bulb ok, just wont work together, any ideas anyone ??)

PANEL PAINT- In great condition, but a bit of damage behind where the screw heads go, so no probs there.

So thats about it for today, has anyone been successful in getting CLUTCH parts from MOTOGB for free or discounted out of warranty, maybe Russ could advice me if there is any chance of that happening now, cheers to all, especially to Errol, who's website made today possible,
Steve.
 

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I had the clutch basket and rubbers and clocks done by Russ :bow: and that was on my 03 Tornado Tre in 2008 . deciding factor was full service history plus i creeped wonderfully :eek: . Thanks to russ and keith and it was a brilliant bike after work was done - nothing needed on my RS .
 

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Oh well Steve, at least it doesn't look too bad, I just wish I was able to do my own repairs etc, I'd probably save a small fortune :doh: !

I'm sure someone will advise you to help you decide on the best option for the repairs you ain't sure you should do or not, my bike didn't have any service history so I had more chance of Hell freezing over than getting it done under warranty :bawl:

(Well I'm not sure about the Hell freezing over thing 'cause I'm sure I saw ice surrounding the Dragon-in-laws this morning so I guess it's already happened ! :rolling: )


:D



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Hi Steve,

I guess we are few guys who strip their bikes during winter time to make a checkup. In fact, I didn´t touch the engine as it was just serviced by Bennetts and I want to trust that they checked everyhing.

But I checked the frame holders for the engine at the both sides and... wonder or not, the left one was lose. Not too much, but enough to tighten it again. Also fabricated the brace for the holder under the headstem (see in another thread). Cleaning up every corner and waiting for my headlight..... I am already impatient to get it, even though not thinking of a ride regarding yesterday´s snowing (again and again). So tired of that lot of snow. Will it ever stop? :mad: I remember my first ride-out last year in march. I wish I can have one in march of this year with my nelli.

Boys from UK... is it normal for you to mount heatgrips to a Tornado??? Will remove them tomorrow. Impossible to ride a sportsbike with heatgrips. At least for me. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hangloose, Thanks I forgot about the frame bolts being loose, have to check those then. Heated grips on a Nelli, never seen that, guess you must be getting the snow we had, blame the Americans, they sent it to us !!!!!!!!
 

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Hi Steve, blame the americans? I thought you guys love to blame the french :rolling:

Anyway.... blaming the americans is ok, too :D

Dirk
 
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My friend has just foned from california and tells me of BIG SNOW FALLS expected tonite

HA !!

That'll teach him for livin somewhere that has sun for 7 months of the year not 7 minutes like we get here. . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Went to local dealer the other day to order the steel uprated clutch arm and the guy reckoned that it should only be fitted with a non-span adjustable hnadlebar lever ?
He also reckoned that there have been very few failures of cluch baskets.

Got me wondering,

1, was he right about the arm and lever working together or can you just fit the arm?

2, how many of the original 500 or so cluches made dodgy have actually failed?

Anyone got an opinion or an answer to/on these ????????????
 

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Hi Steve,

I don't see any reason why a span adjustable lever would not work with the uprated clutch arm as long as it was adjusted correctly to give the 'full' travel.

A few of the guys on the forum have span adjustable levers (me included) and they all work fine :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cheers for that Laurence, do you have your span set on 1,2,3 or 4.
4 giving you a much better pull distance on the cable of course, but I find that it can be a bit of a reach on the higher ones, spuddy little fingers I guess.
How does the steel one actually differ from the alloy, is it shaped differently ?
 

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I had the span adjustable lever on my Tre and the uprated arm was already carried out before russ/keith did the Clutch basket and i found the clutch action fine and had full travel with span lever on before putting on my New levers purchased from laurence and these performed equally as good. Isnt it a strength issue with the steel arm as theres more pull?.
 

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Steve, my thought would be that the newer clutch arm may be longer, so for the same movement of the clutch plates more movement of the lever is required. My rs has the new type arm and non adjust lever,the lever clearance is small (5mm I think at lever end). If I had an adjustable lever I believe I may have more difficulty selecting nuetral (as some do) where as mine goes to nuetral quite easily.So he may very well be correct that Benelli state to change lever at the same time.
If you have short fingers then as long as the clearance is set correct at the clutch end you could set the lever clearance as small as poss, to give max plate movement with an adjustable lever.
The amount of tre clutch failures of early baskets (middle gear failure) is hard to guess as the fault was realised and Benelli did supply the updated baskets.
So probably only a small percentage were not replaced and the fault may not happen anyway according to mileage and or type of use.
The RS clutch failure is a different fault in that the shock springs shake about and wear the basket.
colin..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Guys,
thanks for the words of wisdom, I am still in negotiation with MotoGb, so we will see what happens. No doubt I will let you all know, but reading previous dealings it might take a while, wish me luck,Steve.
 

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Colin has it spot on that the improved clutch arm is a little longer.

The adjustable levers that I supplied and have fitted to my TRE are not the regular levers with the 1 to 4 adjuster disk. These have around 6/7 distinct incremental positions so you can get a finer adjustment. I now use a version of these levers with a hydraulic clutch instead of the standard cable operated system.

Have a look at this post for some pics that show the min and max range adjustment
 
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