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Just wondered whether anyone has played around with the suspension at all and what settings people use? I have never adjusted mine but can't say whether the previous owner did and I sometimes feel like its a bit vague.

Col
 

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Hi Borat
Have you checked to see if your settings are set as they left the factory?

Also what do you mean by vague?

Cheers
 

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I'm using Jonny O's settings too, I have found them great for flying around the twisties, but they are on the firm side for general day to day stuff.

Best thing is use them as a starting point and then do some fine tuning to get the best setting that works for you.
 

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posted by Johnny O - Benelliforum - (30 Sep 2005)
Forks:
1. The forks springs are miles too soft, wind the preload adjusters all the way down too full hard.
2. Screw the compression adjusters (on the bottom of the forks) all the way in, then back them out 1/4 turn.
3. Rebound adjusters set at full soft, all the way out.
Rear:
1. I found exactly as the manual say's was best for both damping adjusters.
2. spring preload: set it with about 10mm of unladen sag. posted by FiBlues- Benelliforum - (30 Sep 2005)
Thanks, something like this?
Front:
Preload: all closed eg. 15 turns (from open to close)
Rebound: all open
Compression: 1/4 turn (from closed to open)

Rear:
Spring length: ?
Preload: "10 mm of unladen sag" sorry, did not understand
Rebound: 11 click (from closed to open)
Compression: 8 click (from closed to open)


Mmm.. I can turn my hand to most things (no smutty comments please), but suspension settings are one area that I find very daunting. I'm scared I'll totally balls it up and not be able to put it back. I'll have to load up the manual to find out which bits I have to twiddle with as the above notes don't mean a lot to me at present.
 

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When you are adjusting suspension,it is sound advise to start from original settings. So, once you have read your manual, and know which knob does what:doh: , check that they are at factory settings. Having done that, it is a straightforward operation to make the adjustments as recommended, making a note of what you have done, so that you can revert back to standard if you are not happy. Once you get the feel for it, you can then amend the adjustments to suit yourself. Only make one alteration at a time, though, so you know what effect it has. If you make more than one, you won't know what has caused what, if you see what I mean :confused: .
With regard to adjusting the rear spring preload to a 10mm sag, you could really do with 2 asistants; one to hold the bike upright while you sit on it, and another to measure the difference in the ride height at the rear, between when you are sitting on it, and when you are not. This is done by measuring the height from the ground at a given point, say the pillion footrest hanger, to the ground, with you on and off the bike, the difference being the sag. More than 10mm, tighten the spring pre-load up; less than 10mm, wind it off. Simple, eh :ele: :confused: :doh:
 

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Laden or not laden sag?

Benny your version is correct but one error -you are doing laden sag which would be between 25 and 40 mm.
Unladen sag is about 5 to 10mm which is what they are asking for.

So do not sit on the bike and measure it.

When you do the laden sag it is best to have your riding gear on if you are setting for a track day.
My CR has about25 mm laden sag.

I would suggest you check both measurements and go with the Laden sag of 30mm.
40 mm would make the suspension softer ride and 25 mm would be a harsher more sportier ride.

I found my CR unladen sag about 5mm (after checking and adjusting the suspension) thus suggesting to go for the laden setup.

Paul
 

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Benny your version is correct but one error -you are doing laden sag which would be between 25 and 40 mm.
Unladen sag is about 5 to 10mm which is what they are asking for.

So do not sit on the bike and measure it.

When you do the laden sag it is best to have your riding gear on if you are setting for a track day.
My CR has about25 mm laden sag.

I would suggest you check both measurements and go with the Laden sag of 30mm.
40 mm would make the suspension softer ride and 25 mm would be a harsher more sportier ride.

I found my CR unladen sag about 5mm (after checking and adjusting the suspension) thus suggesting to go for the laden setup.

Paul
Hi Paul. You are quite right - it was a bit late when I wrote it, and the vino tinto didn't help much:doh: :confused:
The laden sag is important, to set up for the riders weight, as you say.
Cheers
Ian
 

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Thanks lads.

Now, anyone know what the factory / standard settings are for the TRE? :D
 

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Just one other thing.
The 40 mm laden sag will also give you a lower ride height when the weight is on the bike or even a bit of weight like at a stop with foot out. This will help the shorter riders on the Tornados.
The other thing for the Brits in the continuous wet weather,:( it is suggested to have a softer sag (30-40mm) for when riding in the wet. Bike racers set up a softer sag when riding in the wet for a smoother safer ride. The power does not get to the ground as abruptly.

Paul
 

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Just one other thing.
The 40 mm laden sag will also give you a lower ride height when the weight is on the bike or even a bit of weight like at a stop with foot out. This will help the shorter riders on the Tornados.
The other thing for the Brits in the continuous wet weather,:( it is suggested to have a softer sag (30-40mm) for when riding in the wet. Bike racers set up a softer sag when riding in the wet for a smoother safer ride. The power does not get to the ground as abruptly.

Paul
That is true, but it will affect the geometry a bit, so similar adjustments at the front would be needed, to compensate. If this was done to assist shorter riders, it would help to drop the fork yokes, or triple clamps, bringing the forks up through them maybe 6-8mm, to drop the front as well. Those who want quicker steering can do that, and firm up the rear to raise the rear ride height, but don't forget to take your steering damper up a few notches, it might get shakey :doh: :rolling:. If you haven't got an adjustable one, then get one :clap:
Ian
 

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Ian,
other than lifting the forks just adjust the front preload softer for the wet weather as well. A soft front lag is not good if you are doing stoppies. If you are one of those, do the adjustment so that the forks do not bottom out when hitting potholes or jumping on the brakes. In wet weather you will not bottom out the suspension that easily.

Paul
 

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Now, anyone know what the factory / standard settings are for the TRE? :D
Found them in the Owners Manual. :doh:

Front Suspension

Spring Preload - 7.5 turns from 'all open' position (direction - )
Rebound Damper - 2.5 turns from 'all closed' position (direction + )
Compression Damper - 1.5 turns from 'all closed' position (direction + )

Rear Suspension

Spring length - 141 mm (5.55 inches)
Rebound Damper - 32 clicks from 'all closed' position (direction + )
Compression Damper - 18 clickss from 'all closed' position (direction + )

I'm going to check to see what my bike is set to. should be standard configuration. ;)
 
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