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Hi there :)

I have some problems with my clutch. Already replaced the clutch cable with new one, but the clutch is really really heavy. Impossible to ride with this heavy clutch.
On the Benelli FB page they told me that I need to adjust my clutch in the basket.

But how to loosen the center clutch basket nut? The manual says you need two wrenches, one to hold the shaft and one for loosening the nut.
I have tried this but its impossible to use two wrenches.

Any tips or special tools to loosen this "simple" nut?

So:
1) remove clutchbasket
2) romove locknut
3) unscrew the registrering
4) slowly screw the registring until you feel resistance

Am i right?

36623
 

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I just adjusted my TNT clutch because it started to slip on full throttle acceleration. I just grinder one 13mm normal spanner to fit there.

About my slipping problem this adjustment didn't help. I didn't measure plates but I visually checked and it looked normal. Should I just order new plates and springs or what may cause this? Bike is driven just 15k kilometers so this doesn't sound normal

Is that play normal on clutch basket? See video here: Benelli TNT 1130 clutch


Which alternatives clutch kit fit to TNT ?

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36679
 

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Are the springs the correct length and is the pack length in spec? The other thing is are you using the correct bike specific oil?
 

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Are the springs the correct length and is the pack length in spec? The other thing is are you using the correct bike specific oil?
I will do measurement for the pack and springs. I just made adjustment and then tested it, but looks like it requires more investigation

Oil at the moment is: Motul 300v 15w50

Also I think it's good to mention I have driven 200km with these oil before slipping but now recently found that exhaust flap spring was faulty and flap was closed all the time before now. So when I got bike fully power that clutch started to slip. This Motul 300v is fully synthetic oil
 

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It only has to wear by a few tenths of a millimeter to go from fixed to slip. Rather than buy a whole new set of fibre plates, try increasing the thickness of a plain plate to increase the stack height.
(If you decide on new fibre plates, send the old ones to me, I'll get another 100,000 out of them ;)
 

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Where I can find plain plates with different height? I have found just full clutch plate kits but not any separate plates anywhere?
Already missing how easy spare parts finding was to my old gsx-r. .

So minimum wear plate thickness is 2.8mm and new plate is 3.0mm?

36680

36681
 

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You're looking at stack height, not plate thickness, (provided you have fibre left)
Measure your current height (all except the weird one at the bottom)
Also measure the wear in the pusher plate. This will increase the stack height needed,
You may need to machine the pusher to square it up for new plates.

For the Tornado, the stack ht should be between 48 & 50 mm. Pretty sure that's right yeah?? (Currently set to 50). Too low and it will slip, too high and the last plate will disengage from the basket when de-clutched.
I assume the TNT 1130 is the same, but you should check (Surflex, Maniac ?). Don't take the word of the manual as gospel.
Have a chat to Alex at Maniac Motors. He should be able to provide you with plain plates. I haven't found an alternative. I think Alex gets them made.
Plenty of fibre plate alternatives HERE I assume the 1130 will use the same plates. No reason to think otherwise, since the 900 makes about the same power as the 1130.
I'm using Barnett (kevlar) plates. They are 3.0 thick new - already under the limit spec'd by the Tornado manual, hence the need to work on stack height.
(FYI. For the Tornado, the stack height sets the degree of slipper action. I've got written down "increase the height for more slip", but I need to think about that. Anybody ???)
Lower stack height -> higher lift -> easier to find neutral.

BTW. Spare parts are easy to find. You just need to look in different places to where you are used to with your Japper. Alternatives HERE. Often a trip to your local auto spares shop is all you need.
 

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No idea, but the chances are extremely high that all you need is to increase the total thickness of the plain plates. Have a chat to Alex after you have measured your stack and the plain plates.
 

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No idea, but the chances are extremely high that all you need is to increase the total thickness of the plain plates. Have a chat to Alex after you have measured your stack and the plain plates.
Maybe that is best idea, I'm just worried about keeping my benelli in garage for next couple weeks because lack of spare parts when spring is finally in Finland :ROFLMAO:
 

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Soo I measured my clutch pack and everything are in tolerances. Pack height without last plate were 50,4mm and with that plate 52,9mm when manual refer to 53mm.
Couple steel plates has taken some heat but that not so dangerous I guess?
Only thing what I'm wondering is 3 or 4 non equal worn friction plates, there was 0.1mm difference between notch and inner side. See pictures. Springs were also in tolerances as highest was 34,7mm and lowest 34,1mm

What is going on my clutch?

36690

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Have you talked to Alex? He'll know the stack height min - max for your bike.
Looks like there's plenty of meat on the fibre plates
Check the blued plates for warping.
 

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I haven't reached him. Local mechanic told me I can try to little bit sand these plates but he strongly recommend to buy new ones as clutch looks like it has taken heat quite much and surfaces are burned.
 

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If it was cork you'd be in trouble, but it should be kevlar, so a light sand to take the glaze off will work. It's easy to get at so I'd try to resurrect what I have first. If the plates are straight you should be fine. Just get the stack height back to where it should be.
If it still slips after that, get new fibre plates. You've lost very little by trying.
Talk to Alex, or email him. They respond promptly and have a good grasp of English. Then again, you are probably fluent in German (I'm in awe of multilingual Europeans)
 
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