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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The 2006 bike which I have not really started work on yet (and which seems to have some sort of seizure previously mentioned ) also has, amongst many other problems, a broken ignition lock. Checking with the TreK workshop manual it says to remove the two 'pull down' nuts to get the lock out of the head stock. I can see what appears to be two plastic plugs in the lock body flange but cannot see any way of getting them out.
Anyone have any idea how this is achieved ?
I want to get the main switch back together to see what happens when I connect up a battery.
Advice much appreciated as always,
JMB
 

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Wouldn't it be attached with break-off bolts?
Once it's installed, you don't want just anyone removing it and wheeling the bike away.
Methinks you'll have to remove the heads with a die grinder, slip the lock out than unscrew the bolts using the exposed shaft.
I haven't done it. Just assume that's how it would be done.
Have a really good look before you start ...... then let us know how it went.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Your analysis makes sense. The workshop manual show some weird'fasteners', however when you look at this situation in reality.... when the bike was stolen ( I'm guessing) it looks like the electrical section of the package ( lower) was broken off allowing the electrics to be turned on / off without the mechanical lock attached. The electrical switch section is dangling on the 4 leads under the steering head. The mechanical key / lock section is firmly attached to the frame. Now. the 2 'fasteners' attaching the lock to the frame are counter sunk flush with the lock mounting flange and there is no obvious to remove them. Literature glosses over this so I hope it's not a case of removing the steering head and drilling them out from underneath.
Thanks for your suggestions and advice. I'll ponder the issue some more.
Cheers.
JMB
 

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I replaced the lock on my TreK with one from Aliexpress that was meant for different models. (28.0US $ |Ignition Switch Lock Key Set for Benelli BN600 TNT600 Stels 600 Keeway RK6 Top quality / BN TNT 600|ignition key set|keeway keyset top - AliExpress) It worked after I swapped a few steering lock bits. This solution is probably only for those with mechanical experience because the lock is not a straight fit. However it was inexpensive and gave me a proper Benelli folding key (most important!). I also fitted the new fuel cap that used the new ignition key but I retained the old seat lock and key because the new lock was not compatible with the TreK. Thus I must carry both keys but that causes me no stress. The correct lock appears to be available now from the same store but the link was so long I have not posted it. You can do a search of Buywin Store. As best I recall I came-up from underneath with a socket on an extension and sheared the captive nuts from the mounting bracket, then unscrewed them. I might have replaced the bolts with normal hex or socket heads but I don't recall the details. Four years later the lock is still trouble free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for that valuable info. I saw a lockset for the BN 600 on a local market site and had the seller measure up some dimensions....as you have confirmed, they will fit the TNT 1130. I didn't buy anything yet as I still have to find out if the project is viable. Haven't had the time to remove the clutch cover BUT I did drain the oil and washed out the filter. Found nothing nasty in there which is a good sign ( it was not new oil, had done a few miles) I spotted the lock you mentioned on Ali express and contradicting myself did buy something on Ai for the bike...a pair of new unpainted " boomerang" radiator covers at $ 60 each. Having just read the account of the Z25 part failure on this forum, I look forward with trepidation to opening the Pandora's Box on this bike !!
But," them's the breaks"
JMB
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for that Mr. Baron, I'll take a look and file it for later. A bit busy atm rebuilding an accidented VFR 800, but will get around to the Benelli " in the fullness of time."
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
BTW, a question for anyone, the COP coils and spark plugs were removed from the engine when I got the bike. "Normally" at least on Jap bikes, the cylinders are numbered from left to right (facing forward) I can't find any such numbering on the Benelli in the w'shop manual. The plug wiring has different colours but still doesn't say which set of wires goes to which plug. It's not clear from the layout of the sets of ign wires under the tank wot goes where ?
Any assist would be appreciated as usual.
Cheers.
 

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#1 is next to the cam chain. Actually, it IS hand engraved into the head - inside, under the cam cover. At least it is on my Tornado, all 3 engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey Enginia,
I replied to your info a few days ago but for some reason the reply did not end up on this site ?
Basically, it looks like #1 cylinder on the right, 2 in the center and 3 on the left ( opposite of Jap bikes).
Now all I need is the colour and position of one of the coil's electrical leads and it won't be too difficult to figure out the layout.
All advice appreciated, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have and whilst it's easy enough to translate the Italian for many of the components common to m'cycle elec circuits including the wire colours, the cylinder numbering is not shown. I am assuming the wiring diagram is shown facing forward so the RHS plug coil is # 1 cylinder ? But then I also assumed that the cylinder numbering was from left to right which, it seems it isn't, it's the other way around. We all know how to spell 'assume'........ass you me so I'm careful assuming anything.
 

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36671

Not sure where you got your schematic from, but this one certainly shows cylinder numbers.
Coil 1 - GN/BK - BK ECU connector pin AB
Coil 2 - YE/BK - BK ECU connector pin BB
Coil 3 - BU/BK - GY ECU connector pin A1

(Of course, being Italian, the loom may not necessarily conform to the diagram)
 
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